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Old 04-13-2010, 01:43 AM   #21
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Quote:
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but the FM is only for 1.8 or I'll have to get a 1.8 Flywheel, but don't have the money for a FM lightweight ...

I ask a guy from a local tuning shop and he told me I had to get a ceramic for a turbo application, that the organic won't hold..... ??!
Buy a stock 1.8 for cheap and put it in. I think used ones go for around $40. Then buy an FM1 clutch and enjoy yourself.
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Old 04-13-2010, 01:56 AM   #22
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Agreed
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Old 04-13-2010, 03:26 AM   #23
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real men have two clutch discs.
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Old 04-13-2010, 03:29 AM   #24
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Yeah but most of us are on a beer budget!! So we have to shop on ebay. But luckly we have tried this stuff and can tell people what works
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Old 04-13-2010, 07:45 AM   #25
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Having done a clutch job 4 times after the Gripforce fiasco (just search on m.net, I'm too lazy to post up a link), I will NEVER buy something that takes that much time and effort to install on Ebay.
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Old 04-13-2010, 03:14 PM   #26
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anyway, I think I'm gonna put 140$ for a F1 for this summer, and at the end of summer or during the winter, I'll have enough money for a FM1 happymeal :P

The turbo set up his my first preocupation :P

next, painting it :P

then ; new clutch :P
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Old 04-13-2010, 03:18 PM   #27
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I had a Gripforce stage 3 puck clutch on my 90 (no turbo), I was chattery, but effective.

I'm hoping to make 300+ HP with this build in my 97...flying miata happy meal going in (better safe then sorry)
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Old 04-14-2010, 02:26 AM   #28
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Quality is as much about consistency as about having some good ones. If it's a roll of the dice whether any given example is going to be good or crap, then the whole part stream is rejectable. You can set up some kind of 100 percent inspection, if you can identify the characteristics that matter. That's expensive, and you have to know what to look for, and you have to be able to sort multiple parts. And you end up with a pile of rejects that you spent the money to build and then inspect. Most of the industrialized world that is actually aiming at quality has figured out that it's much cheaper to control processes and ensure consistent production output.

Across multiple vehicles, it's better to buy from a consistent source. On one vehicle, you may choose to roll the dice, but be prepared to lose your bet.
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Old 04-14-2010, 03:41 AM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by absRTP View Post
anyway, I think I'm gonna put 140$ for a F1 for this summer, and at the end of summer or during the winter, I'll have enough money for a FM1 happymeal :P

The turbo set up his my first preocupation :P

next, painting it :P

then ; new clutch :P
very wise and effective
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Old 04-14-2010, 03:49 AM   #30
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alright i am in need of a new clutch too on a budget for now, probably going with the F1 stage 1 rated to like 270 HP. Im confused do i need to replace the flywheel too, if Im going cheap should i just get the clutch and flywheel combo on ebay. or would it be cheaper to get the stock flywheel resurfaced. My clutch now is pretty shot.
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Old 04-14-2010, 04:05 AM   #31
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flywheel will be fine unless it has some inordinate damage on it.
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Old 04-14-2010, 01:24 PM   #32
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F1 stage 3 here going on 4 weeks and I LOVE it. Can't beat it for $160 Its in my NA DD 2000
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Old 04-14-2010, 04:16 PM   #33
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Make sure to turn your flywheel.
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Old 04-14-2010, 04:17 PM   #34
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to turn, what do you mean?
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Old 04-14-2010, 04:19 PM   #35
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i think he means to resurface, as in turning on a lathe or machine? ya i found a local shop that can do that, ordered the F1 stage 2 clutch today and i'll report back once it gets installed
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Old 04-14-2010, 04:23 PM   #36
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ya I know that ;-)
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Old 04-14-2010, 04:44 PM   #37
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I dont understand the need for puck clutches on these cars. A standard disk usually has less chatter, weighs about the same, enages very linearly, and will handle the torque that the vast majority of us put down. I guess a puck might do better under really high heat loads, but AFAIK the time to worry about that is on repeated drag launchs. On a road course or AutoX, your launching maybe once, then it is shifting, usually as quickly as possible which means little in the way of heat load on the clutch due to very little slipage.

So why get a puck?
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Old 04-14-2010, 09:32 PM   #38
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I"ll sell my balanced and lightened factory 1.8 flywheel for $90 + shipping.
No need to resurface.
2.5# ridge on the back has been removed.
Includes factory flywheel bolts.
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Old 04-14-2010, 09:36 PM   #39
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weight?
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Old 04-14-2010, 10:28 PM   #40
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What are stock 1.8 clutches reported to hold? I've had mine in my car for nearly 2 years and it holds 12psi just fine, although I pretty much just run wastegate at this point (9psi) and its never slipped or given me any trouble. For 100 bucks its tough to beat if you're not going to be pushing 225hp+. I'm just curious at what point its suppose to start slipping.
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