Source for power steering delete tensioner
Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2016
Posts: 697
Total Cats: 91
From: Los Angeles, CA
It's actually pretty easy, give or take.
1. Remove exhaust
2. Remove bolt holding in PS pump. If you inserted it from the back, this will take 2 minutes. If you inserted it from the front, this will take an hour because of your rad fans.
3. Put the thing in a vise and remove the four bolts on the back with a 12mm socket. I didn't even have to use heat.
4. The little circular bit doesn't come out. But the housing around it and the little apex seal looking things do. Just flip it over and give a smack on the wheel side and everything flies out.
5. The tube on the side comes off as well with a 10mm socket, but the tube thing isn't a standard size fitting that you can replace with a blockoff plate.
****, I just realized I could have done this entire job without removing the PS pump.
1. Remove exhaust
2. Remove bolt holding in PS pump. If you inserted it from the back, this will take 2 minutes. If you inserted it from the front, this will take an hour because of your rad fans.
3. Put the thing in a vise and remove the four bolts on the back with a 12mm socket. I didn't even have to use heat.
4. The little circular bit doesn't come out. But the housing around it and the little apex seal looking things do. Just flip it over and give a smack on the wheel side and everything flies out.
5. The tube on the side comes off as well with a 10mm socket, but the tube thing isn't a standard size fitting that you can replace with a blockoff plate.
****, I just realized I could have done this entire job without removing the PS pump.
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Newb
Joined: Jul 2018
Posts: 1
Total Cats: 0
About that...
So, while I was a googlin' I did find myself staring at a brand new Mazda 1.8L power steering delete pulley. Now, most of you know that part number BP01-15-930 has been discontinued and marked NLA. But did you know that the 94-97 Kia Sephia could come with A/C and without P/S as an option? The part number is 0K201-15-930, and my local dealer told me it was available as a special order at $80 something list. It looks like it is available from most Kia Parts Direct-type web stores at around ~$65. I didn't want to shim my A/C compressor, and now I don't have to.
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Junior Member
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 123
Total Cats: -46
From: Edmond, Oklahoma
^ I initially used the belt in your writeup, but it was far too tight. With the compressor over an inch away from flush on the rear bolt areas, the belt was already tight.
I'm currently using the next belt size up, with two washers on each a/c compressor bolt, but I still get a small amount of belt slip when the clutch engages.
I'm currently using the next belt size up, with two washers on each a/c compressor bolt, but I still get a small amount of belt slip when the clutch engages.
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https://www.kainjection.com/product-...te-bracket-kit
Brand new, less money than most people sell their old junk for, includes new belt and all hardware. And lighter, maximum weight reduction!
Brand new, less money than most people sell their old junk for, includes new belt and all hardware. And lighter, maximum weight reduction!
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Newb
Joined: Nov 2018
Posts: 5
Total Cats: 0
https://www.kainjection.com/product-...te-bracket-kit
Brand new, less money than most people sell their old junk for, includes new belt and all hardware. And lighter, maximum weight reduction!
Brand new, less money than most people sell their old junk for, includes new belt and all hardware. And lighter, maximum weight reduction!
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To bring this back from the dead... Any feedback which belt the NB guys are using for a 1999 Denso compressor using the sixshooter bolt shimming method? 4PK0775 or 5040305? 31.25" vs 30.5"? Trying to avoid buying 2 belts.
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Newb
Joined: Oct 2021
Posts: 3
Total Cats: -1
Awesome thread!
sixshooter, I think I'm going your route on this. Gutted P/S pump failed, and I just something more simple. Why not just have the crank directly pull the AC? I rarely use my AC anyway.
Question, please: can you confirm you are using the 4PK0775 or 5040305 belts on the 1996 Miata from your profile info? I have a 1995.
Hi everyone, this is my first post on here.I have a 1995 M Edition with de-powered rack, Jackson Racing cold air intake and headers, Borla cat-back and merlot hard top. Everything else is stock. I like Yokohama S-Drive tires.
sixshooter, I think I'm going your route on this. Gutted P/S pump failed, and I just something more simple. Why not just have the crank directly pull the AC? I rarely use my AC anyway.
Question, please: can you confirm you are using the 4PK0775 or 5040305 belts on the 1996 Miata from your profile info? I have a 1995.
Hi everyone, this is my first post on here.I have a 1995 M Edition with de-powered rack, Jackson Racing cold air intake and headers, Borla cat-back and merlot hard top. Everything else is stock. I like Yokohama S-Drive tires.
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Newb
Joined: Oct 2021
Posts: 3
Total Cats: -1
less efficient?
I was thinking: is running a belt directly between the crank and A/C less efficient than using the third pulley?
This two-pulley set up, I imagine makes the A/C a heavier load? because there's more contact surface area (more friction) with the belt more wrapped around the A/C's pulley.
Do any of you with sixshooter's set up, experience an extra decrease of power when using the A/C?
This two-pulley set up, I imagine makes the A/C a heavier load? because there's more contact surface area (more friction) with the belt more wrapped around the A/C's pulley.
Do any of you with sixshooter's set up, experience an extra decrease of power when using the A/C?
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I was thinking: is running a belt directly between the crank and A/C less efficient than using the third pulley?
This two-pulley set up, I imagine makes the A/C a heavier load? because there's more contact surface area (more friction) with the belt more wrapped around the A/C's pulley.
Do any of you with sixshooter's set up, experience an extra decrease of power when using the A/C?
This two-pulley set up, I imagine makes the A/C a heavier load? because there's more contact surface area (more friction) with the belt more wrapped around the A/C's pulley.
Do any of you with sixshooter's set up, experience an extra decrease of power when using the A/C?
torque required to turn the compressor will not change in any measurable way with belt wrap.
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