Is the space on this dog bone bolt okay?
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From: Philadelphia
Is the space on this dog bone bolt okay?
Putting it back together after switching out my shocks, the nut won't screw all the way in, it's stuck solid where it is shown here, but will i be okay with that space?
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Doesn't look tight (lock washer not fully compressed). Are the threads buggered up? I'd say the bushing is probably shot, too.
Worst case, it will back out. At the very least it will most likely "clunk" as the swaybar is loaded and unloaded.
I'd recommend a new nut/bolt at minimum.
Worst case, it will back out. At the very least it will most likely "clunk" as the swaybar is loaded and unloaded.
I'd recommend a new nut/bolt at minimum.
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Joined: Apr 2014
Posts: 18,643
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From: Beaverton, USA
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Joined: Oct 2013
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From: NorthWest NJ
Either ignore it (if you keep it out of the salt it won't get any worse at any rate of speed) or wire brush and paint. Doesn't look any worse than my car, and my car is all surface rust.
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Imma quote the "bible" here:
The shape of the 94-97 1.8 front swaybars are identical to the front 1.6 bars with the exception of the length of the bar after the bend for the endlinks, the 94-97 is about 3/4" longer (the rears are the same). -> |______|
If you have a 1.6 aftermarket bar that is 3 position adjustable you might be able to use it in a 1.8 chassis if you get lucky and the outer most mounting hole (soft position) will match up with length of the 1.8. A 1.8 bar in a 1.6 chassis would be the opposite using the inner most (stiffest position). Since you will be using the last adjustment position you'll loose the adjustability feature though. Otherwise, to install a front 1.8 bar on a 1.6 car you can redrill a new hole approx 3/4" closer to the bend (always compare and measure.) Most of the aftermarket bars have enough of a flat mounting surface to support the new hole, otherwise you might have to put the bar on a bench grinder to make the flat mounting area larger. This works fine on a solid bar but a hollow bar may not have enough meat in that area for that to work. (again, always compare and measure).
If you have a 1.6 aftermarket bar that is 3 position adjustable you might be able to use it in a 1.8 chassis if you get lucky and the outer most mounting hole (soft position) will match up with length of the 1.8. A 1.8 bar in a 1.6 chassis would be the opposite using the inner most (stiffest position). Since you will be using the last adjustment position you'll loose the adjustability feature though. Otherwise, to install a front 1.8 bar on a 1.6 car you can redrill a new hole approx 3/4" closer to the bend (always compare and measure.) Most of the aftermarket bars have enough of a flat mounting surface to support the new hole, otherwise you might have to put the bar on a bench grinder to make the flat mounting area larger. This works fine on a solid bar but a hollow bar may not have enough meat in that area for that to work. (again, always compare and measure).
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Thread Starter
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From: Philadelphia
Alright then, the bible says so. I'm looking at adding some coilovers to the build list as I don't know how many miles or how much abuse the last owner put onto the ones I found. I'm trying to find the right way to do these things. It's a process. Thanks for the info
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