What do I buy for a generic baller race suspension setup?
#1
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Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: Wadsworth, Ohio
Posts: 417
Total Cats: 67
What do I buy for a generic baller race suspension setup?
As the title states, I am looking to upgrade my suspension to the best possible setup within reason and looking for feedback or anything I might have missed. Plenty of threads say to just get XIDAs, but what about any other supporting mods?
I would like to see this become a blueprint for anyone else that is looking for a complete generic suspension parts list.
Planned upgrades:
XIDA Race - 800/500 with Billet Coaxial Mounts
Poly bushings with SadFab bronze retrofit.
Supermiata Upper Ball Joint.
ELBJs from Flyin Miata.
R-package tie rods from Flyin Miata.
Racing Beat Sway Bar Bracket Bracing.
Wilwood Brake Proportioning Valve.
Singular hood vents + Ebay front spoiler/lip.
15x9 with Hoosiers
My car is a '91, ~200 HP, Torsen, sport brakes, and I autocross in SSM. I currently have Flyin Miata's Tokio stage 2.5 setup.
Car is 80% autocross and I am willing to sacrifice street driving.
I think the above doesnt just apply to my setup but wanted to get the additional info upfront.
Is running both ELBJs and R-package tie rods ok? I have read threads stating both ELBJs and R-package tie rods are a good idea, but not any that states this in combination.
I think it's ok based on my limited knowledge as they aim to solve to different issues. Camber vs bump steer.
Is 800/500 enough if moving to 15x9 with Hoosiers? Do I need more aero + tire + power before I need to worry about more spring?
Are the FM swaybars enough or should I just get the supermiata kit since I am this deep anyhow?
I plan on having Tarmac88 setup the car if possible.
Am I asking to be spoon-fed and should I GTFO?
I would like to see this become a blueprint for anyone else that is looking for a complete generic suspension parts list.
Planned upgrades:
XIDA Race - 800/500 with Billet Coaxial Mounts
Poly bushings with SadFab bronze retrofit.
Supermiata Upper Ball Joint.
ELBJs from Flyin Miata.
R-package tie rods from Flyin Miata.
Racing Beat Sway Bar Bracket Bracing.
Wilwood Brake Proportioning Valve.
Singular hood vents + Ebay front spoiler/lip.
15x9 with Hoosiers
My car is a '91, ~200 HP, Torsen, sport brakes, and I autocross in SSM. I currently have Flyin Miata's Tokio stage 2.5 setup.
Car is 80% autocross and I am willing to sacrifice street driving.
I think the above doesnt just apply to my setup but wanted to get the additional info upfront.
Is running both ELBJs and R-package tie rods ok? I have read threads stating both ELBJs and R-package tie rods are a good idea, but not any that states this in combination.
I think it's ok based on my limited knowledge as they aim to solve to different issues. Camber vs bump steer.
Is 800/500 enough if moving to 15x9 with Hoosiers? Do I need more aero + tire + power before I need to worry about more spring?
Are the FM swaybars enough or should I just get the supermiata kit since I am this deep anyhow?
I plan on having Tarmac88 setup the car if possible.
Am I asking to be spoon-fed and should I GTFO?
#2
I wouldn't use the FM swaybars. They give too much rear bar and not enough front bar. I would run the supermiata big grip kit if you are at the point of buying everything else from them.
You could also try running the stock na6 rear swaybar and the RB 1.125 tubular front bar. The Na6 rear bar is a bit thicker than every other miata rear bar, but it is marginally smaller than the MSM rear bar.
I personally run the 1.125 front bar and na6 rear bar on my miata and it is a nice combo that is well balanced with my 550/350 spring rates.
You could also try running the stock na6 rear swaybar and the RB 1.125 tubular front bar. The Na6 rear bar is a bit thicker than every other miata rear bar, but it is marginally smaller than the MSM rear bar.
I personally run the 1.125 front bar and na6 rear bar on my miata and it is a nice combo that is well balanced with my 550/350 spring rates.
#9
If you’re only auto crossing the car I’d say go back to NA6 brakes, or regular 1.8 brakes. Less unsprung weight and more pad selection than the sport calipers. Will be plenty of brake for autoX speeds and fade wont be an issue with autoX run lengths. (I say this as an na6/sport brake owner)
Also if they’re original, plan on replacing all 8 eccentrics. They were updated sometime in the 90s to a finer thread that clamps much better, you’ll need all the clamp you can with ~275 hoosiers. Basically gonna become a consumable for you at those grip levels.
Also if they’re original, plan on replacing all 8 eccentrics. They were updated sometime in the 90s to a finer thread that clamps much better, you’ll need all the clamp you can with ~275 hoosiers. Basically gonna become a consumable for you at those grip levels.
#10
Even though the order was already placed, I'll echo others' sentiments for posterity: FM sways give you too much rear bar. Even with FM's rear-biased camber alignment and their spring/shock/bumpstop package, front sway adjusted stiff and rear full soft, I had to watch out for oversteer. I remember one instance coming out of the carousel at a local track where I was full throttle in third gear on stock power with the rear squirming around under me. Trail braking was... not advisable. I've since put the stock rear sway back on, even though I'm only putting around on the street.
#11
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: Wadsworth, Ohio
Posts: 417
Total Cats: 67
If you’re only auto crossing the car I’d say go back to NA6 brakes, or regular 1.8 brakes. Less unsprung weight and more pad selection than the sport calipers. Will be plenty of brake for autoX speeds and fade wont be an issue with autoX run lengths. (I say this as an na6/sport brake owner)
Also if they’re original, plan on replacing all 8 eccentrics. They were updated sometime in the 90s to a finer thread that clamps much better, you’ll need all the clamp you can with ~275 hoosiers. Basically gonna become a consumable for you at those grip levels.
Also if they’re original, plan on replacing all 8 eccentrics. They were updated sometime in the 90s to a finer thread that clamps much better, you’ll need all the clamp you can with ~275 hoosiers. Basically gonna become a consumable for you at those grip levels.
Even though the order was already placed, I'll echo others' sentiments for posterity: FM sways give you too much rear bar. Even with FM's rear-biased camber alignment and their spring/shock/bumpstop package, front sway adjusted stiff and rear full soft, I had to watch out for oversteer. I remember one instance coming out of the carousel at a local track where I was full throttle in third gear on stock power with the rear squirming around under me. Trail braking was... not advisable. I've since put the stock rear sway back on, even though I'm only putting around on the street.
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