A tranny option
#82
Yeh he brakes 4th most of the time but think it is a result of hammering the trans auto crossing with 275 hoosiers and yes he doesn't get into 4th, but it is flexing the case and weakening things. His tq. is around 310 ish if I remember right, his hp is 380 something but he dials it back to 330 ish.
#84
I don't see Bob like I used to when I lived in Anacortes a few mins. away since moving to Grants Pass. But he kept the Q 5spd in the car to finish the autocross season with the toasted 5th gear, so he didn't do any track days this year. I haven't talked to him lately so I don't know what his thoughts are for the future.
#85
Bob's problem is more then just hp issues. I have nearly the sane hp and have had no issues with my six and do numerous track days each year. I have helped Bob replace a few of his trans in years past. I think running 275 hoosiers and mainly hard on and off the power doing mainly autocrossing has more to do with his trans issues then just shear hp or tq..
#87
I have an extra bell housing, ready to be cut down and am looking for a v-6 T5 to start piecing this together. I'm hoping the pilot bearing will be off the shelf, if anyone knows chime in.
Tim, if you extend that piece through the freeze plug/cap you could put the shifter in the right place. Top plate would have to be extended too and a rubber plug with a hole in it for the extended piece to fit through. There is also a dimensional chart that shows which trans is the longest.
Post links of anything interesting you come across. Here's one that talks about the history of the T5
T5 History in Ford Mustangs with specifications for World class and non-World class T5's Modern Driveline
#88
They were definitely the non World Class... I remember when those hit the scene. Right about the same time the Tremecs did.
Speaking of which, wasn't/isn't there a bolt in Tremec replacement for the T5?
Not the T-56 but something that pre-dated it?
Then there was also a T5-R iirc? Totally going from memory here...
Speaking of which, wasn't/isn't there a bolt in Tremec replacement for the T5?
Not the T-56 but something that pre-dated it?
Then there was also a T5-R iirc? Totally going from memory here...
#90
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The T5 I've used was made by Tremec. Not sure, but I think all new ones are Tremec's.
The Tremec T5 is seven pounds lighter than the stock 5 speed.
Stifter adapter goes straight aft out the freeze plug hole. It is all as stiff as the T5 stock stuff.
The pilot bearing needs an ID of 17 mm, other dims, of course, remain the same as stock.
corky
The Tremec T5 is seven pounds lighter than the stock 5 speed.
Stifter adapter goes straight aft out the freeze plug hole. It is all as stiff as the T5 stock stuff.
The pilot bearing needs an ID of 17 mm, other dims, of course, remain the same as stock.
corky
#92
I still haven't heard anything in regards to price or timeframe. How much development is left before there is a running prototype? How much longer until there is something for sale?
This sounds like it could be an awesome alternative to a 6 speed + 3.6 swap the next time my 5 speed dies (the r+p gears add like 600 bucks to the cost and 6sp + 4.1 rear is horribly short). A nearly indestructible gearbox with ratios almost the same as the stock five speed sounds pretty good. Oh yeah and it's a bunch lighter than the stock tranny. Even the long overdrive gear wouldn't really be that horrible, but it sounds like they are commonly available with .75 overdrives, so .
edit- I'm an idiot, corky said on page 3:
This sounds like it could be an awesome alternative to a 6 speed + 3.6 swap the next time my 5 speed dies (the r+p gears add like 600 bucks to the cost and 6sp + 4.1 rear is horribly short). A nearly indestructible gearbox with ratios almost the same as the stock five speed sounds pretty good. Oh yeah and it's a bunch lighter than the stock tranny. Even the long overdrive gear wouldn't really be that horrible, but it sounds like they are commonly available with .75 overdrives, so .
edit- I'm an idiot, corky said on page 3:
A new TOB sleeve, driveshaft and rear trans mount have yet to be made. I hope to get it all done in 6 to 8 weeks. And the PPF attachment, of course.
Any part, or all parts. Your choice.
Any part, or all parts. Your choice.
Last edited by AlwaysBroken; 10-21-2015 at 05:41 PM.
#95
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Tim, if you extend that piece through the freeze plug/cap you could put the shifter in the right place. Top plate would have to be extended too and a rubber plug with a hole in it for the extended piece to fit through. There is also a dimensional chart that shows which trans is the longest.
And the rubber plug needs to seal the extended shift rod while allowing the rod to move fore/aft and rotate.
My guess: Corky's solution is on the ghetto side of clever. If he machines an extended shift rod that bolts/clamps the stock shift detent gizmo, it'll have to also be sturdy enough to hold the shaft in place concentric with the above fancy seal.
#96
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Tim,
From the picture, knock out the freeze plug and that is the extent of disassembly. The add on stuff requires 10 minutes to complete. Simple, stout, and easy. Sorry, not cheap.
Negative on the casting. I made one and did not like the result. The patterns were hugely difficult (for me), it was heavy, expensive, and a bitch to machine.
After deciding a sloppy driveshaft was the worst load the bell housing could get and the resulting stress analysis, I remain convinced a welded aluminum assy will work/live just fine. Welds are certainly not T6 strength, nor is the surrounding material within about a quarter of an inch. The deteriorated strength does not drop to condition 0, rather to about twice that. Material thickness and adequate filler rod will take care of the strength needs quite well. The margins remain high.
I have broken five drive shafts thus far. Four on race tracks. None failed in torsion.
The accompanying violence is more fun than one should normally have. Also suggests it's a good idea to figure out how they work, which I think I did, plus take the needed precautions to avoid. Although a long time ago, the respect for the huge loads involved remains relatively clear.
Steel housings are needed for sanctioned drag racing. Aluminum is good everywhere else. Welding aluminum is more fun anyway.
Schedule and cost... Give me about two weeks and I should have some decent info.
While this stuff is clearly fun, I sure don't want to be working on it another 54 years.
corky
From the picture, knock out the freeze plug and that is the extent of disassembly. The add on stuff requires 10 minutes to complete. Simple, stout, and easy. Sorry, not cheap.
Negative on the casting. I made one and did not like the result. The patterns were hugely difficult (for me), it was heavy, expensive, and a bitch to machine.
After deciding a sloppy driveshaft was the worst load the bell housing could get and the resulting stress analysis, I remain convinced a welded aluminum assy will work/live just fine. Welds are certainly not T6 strength, nor is the surrounding material within about a quarter of an inch. The deteriorated strength does not drop to condition 0, rather to about twice that. Material thickness and adequate filler rod will take care of the strength needs quite well. The margins remain high.
I have broken five drive shafts thus far. Four on race tracks. None failed in torsion.
The accompanying violence is more fun than one should normally have. Also suggests it's a good idea to figure out how they work, which I think I did, plus take the needed precautions to avoid. Although a long time ago, the respect for the huge loads involved remains relatively clear.
Steel housings are needed for sanctioned drag racing. Aluminum is good everywhere else. Welding aluminum is more fun anyway.
Schedule and cost... Give me about two weeks and I should have some decent info.
While this stuff is clearly fun, I sure don't want to be working on it another 54 years.
corky
#98
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Two questions:
1) Rough ballpark- is this going to be more or less expensive than the current best option of 6 speed + 3.6 rear (roughly 1200 bucks)? Not having to swap the R&P will save about 600 dollars. Do you anticipate junkyard T5s to be a decent option?
2) Rough ballpark again- if it's going to be more expensive than 6sp+3.6rnp, by how much? 2x? 3x? 4x?
1) Rough ballpark- is this going to be more or less expensive than the current best option of 6 speed + 3.6 rear (roughly 1200 bucks)? Not having to swap the R&P will save about 600 dollars. Do you anticipate junkyard T5s to be a decent option?
2) Rough ballpark again- if it's going to be more expensive than 6sp+3.6rnp, by how much? 2x? 3x? 4x?
Just wait for a damn answer
#99
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Two questions:
1) Rough ballpark- is this going to be more or less expensive than the current best option of 6 speed + 3.6 rear (roughly 1200 bucks)? Not having to swap the R&P will save about 600 dollars. Do you anticipate junkyard T5s to be a decent option?
2) Rough ballpark again- if it's going to be more expensive than 6sp+3.6rnp, by how much? 2x? 3x? 4x?
1) Rough ballpark- is this going to be more or less expensive than the current best option of 6 speed + 3.6 rear (roughly 1200 bucks)? Not having to swap the R&P will save about 600 dollars. Do you anticipate junkyard T5s to be a decent option?
2) Rough ballpark again- if it's going to be more expensive than 6sp+3.6rnp, by how much? 2x? 3x? 4x?
Honestly if there was a $1200 solution, we would have already figured it out. Every alternative trans idea I have seen over the past 10 years has always ended up in the price range I quoted above, if not much more.
#100
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T5s pop up on craigslist all the time. I'm in a shitty car buying area and there are 7 available locally. The average asking price is $500.
That would be the beauty of this option, but you would have to be very careful of which version you're getting.
That being said, what does the hivemind say the most desirable T5 would be?
Everything I have experienced or read says that 90 and up world class T5s are the strongest.
I'm unsure whether some packages received stronger stuffs or not.
That would be the beauty of this option, but you would have to be very careful of which version you're getting.
That being said, what does the hivemind say the most desirable T5 would be?
Everything I have experienced or read says that 90 and up world class T5s are the strongest.
I'm unsure whether some packages received stronger stuffs or not.