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Well the housing landed within spec when bolted onto the engine in the car with no shims and no offset dowels so thats a plus, it is bolted on and holding its own weight. The top of the transmission is a tight fit might have to take a hammer to the top of the tunnel not really sure yet. Have to brainstorm some crossmember ideas and ordered parts for the driveshaft.
I see you have the same frame rail braces as me. I kept it simple.
yeah idk why im trying to over complicate this, I was going to make kind of a \__/ shaped one and bolt it higher up on the tunnel. my only worry with this setup is the exhaust routing, you go up and over the crossmember im guessing? I run a full 3"
I also added a tab on the cross member for the factory PPF but I think you are not running the factory diff.
im going to be running a stock diff for a bit, need some time to recoup some money before i dive into the 8.8 swap, Mounting it in the subframe is the easy part, damn near 2000 for axles is just insane to me.
Im not sure if i was going to go the route of just cutting the pff and welding a mount to the subframe and using a a turnbuckle on the diff holding it in place or do like you did here. And i personally am not a fan of fighting with the PPF all the time but i havent decided yet. I get a ton of wheel hop right now with the stock transmission and setup so was possibly going to try something new and do the turnbuckle route and make a brace that goes across the bottom of the subframe too.
I hear ya. I was the same way...going to do a cts diff swap, but that will never happen. I saw the ppf trimmed with a heim to the rear subframe solution and, for me, the math was ok but it did not make me as comfortable as having a longer torque arm and just screwing it to the cross member I had just made. It was less fab work, and I'm lazy. I laid the PPF up there and was like, oh, this is convenient.
I think I wired the ppf up thru the shift hole when I removed my engine/trans as a whole. It's one bolt. I do not remove it from the rear anymore, no need to.
Ultimately it was good as I was able to adjust driveline angles with that front mount relatively easily. A NB bump stop was sliced into washers and used to take out some NVH. I also replace that urethane trans mount with a factory rubber. We are all getting old.
yeah idk why im trying to over complicate this, I was going to make kind of a \__/ shaped one and bolt it higher up on the tunnel. my only worry with this setup is the exhaust routing, you go up and over the crossmember im guessing? I run a full 3"
Those wedge styles that V8R and such have done, yeah those look hard.
Yes, my 3" exhaust above the cross member. Lots of room for 3". There's a thick hand's worth of clearance between my exhaust and the top of the cross member.
Those wedge styles that V8R and such have done, yeah those look hard.
Yes, my 3" exhaust above the cross member. Lots of room for 3". There's a thick hand's worth of clearance between my exhaust and the top of the cross member.
dumb question i wont be around the car for a while to check them out and the PO actually put them on, not exactly sure which frame rail braces they are but you recall if they were stainless im guessing? Mine arent exactly straight anymore id probably just pull out that area as flat as i can get it and just weld it still on the car. The more i think about this i think this is the way to do it, I doubt the whole heimjoint thing is going to help my wheel hop situation...
Mine are stainless Flyin Miata braces. Yours look to be the same.
Gotta play around a bit with Migging stainless but i got it kinda mocked up. It could be better but with this swap basically being my first fab project it is what it is. For the motor angle i just dropped it down till i could just barely still get the Cas out to give me as much room as i can get for the shifter and i remember stock it was just enough to get the cas out, still going to need a bit of clearance but maybe not as bad. And for the diff i think i am going to go the route of the turnbuckle and delete the ppf so ill be able to adjust the pinion angle to whatever i want. For some reason the frame rail to trans mount is 1" closer on one side than the other so the mount isnt center of the crossmember as if the transmission isn't in the middle of the frame rails but yet it lines up with the shifter hole, maybe thats just how the car is built and its not a problem and stuff just isnt as symmetrical as i figured it would be.. Next is to tackle all the clutch hydraulics once i get the crossmember welded up and a driveshaft.
I just found this thread and it's super interesting and seems to be a good alternative to the kmiata zf swap. I think I have a pretty good handle on most of this but I have a few questions.
If im understand correctly, you can use the stock spec flywheel and pressure plate with this setup, but need to find a friction disk of the miata diameter but with the tko spline size/count correct?
My other question may be a stupid one, or I might be overthinking it, about measuring the bell housing runout. I understand that the dial indicator base gets attached to the flywheel clutch surface and the indicator needle is to be as perpendicular to the bore as possible. Does it not matter if the dial indicators center of rotation is centered on the cranks center of ration? It seems to me that if the gauge isn't centered on the axis of rotation it would show runout even if there isn't any. Or is it simply important to make sure the needle is squarely touching the bore all the way around?
I just found this thread and it's super interesting and seems to be a good alternative to the kmiata zf swap. I think I have a pretty good handle on most of this but I have a few questions.
If im understand correctly, you can use the stock spec flywheel and pressure plate with this setup, but need to find a friction disk of the miata diameter but with the tko spline size/count correct?
My other question may be a stupid one, or I might be overthinking it, about measuring the bell housing runout. I understand that the dial indicator base gets attached to the flywheel clutch surface and the indicator needle is to be as perpendicular to the bore as possible. Does it not matter if the dial indicators center of rotation is centered on the cranks center of ration? It seems to me that if the gauge isn't centered on the axis of rotation it would show runout even if there isn't any. Or is it simply important to make sure the needle is squarely touching the bore all the way around?
In theory yes, you can run a stock Miata clutch and flywheel but the disk needs to be splined to fit the new transmission. The pilot bearing on the tkx luckily is the same as a stock 5 speed so that's easy. I actually got a 6 puck comp clutch disk splined for the tkx to go in my FM LVL2 clutch and was using a Fidanza flywheel(doesn't matter any flywheel will work) but ended up not using that and getting the other clutch from spec in the pictures, no real reason i just jumped the gun on getting the disk after ordering the spec clutch as it was taking a bit of time. Probably just keep it as a spare or sell it if someone needed.
and its not a dumb question I was a bit confused the first time doing it but as long as the magbase or whatever you use doesn't move on the flywheel or crank its accurate as they all spin around the center if that makes sense, im not sure the best way to word it. Same way i center parts on a mill using a dial indicator around the spindle and what not, Probably easier to look up videos of that to get the concept. The one variable that comes to mind that could throw it off is condition of the main bearings, i was using an old blown up BP to mock up with and turns out the crank didn't even run true to the motor so i got a different one to build it with, and sure enough the main bearings were completely toast in it.
So I looked at swapping a tkx into my car also. My hold up was money. When I finally became able to afford the swap, the bellhosing showed as "discontinued". With that said, would you be willing to make me an adapter? I have someone that can weld it.
So I looked at swapping a tkx into my car also. My hold up was money. When I finally became able to afford the swap, the bellhosing showed as "discontinued". With that said, would you be willing to make me an adapter? I have someone that can weld it.
As much as i would have liked to start making more of these idk if im really quite equipped to at the very moment, Im sure a machine shop could do it for cheaper than id be able to if your just looking for the plate for someone else to weld it on. Id talk to the welder on all of this first as Id go about building it an entire different way as i did in this thread if i was to make a 2nd one. Id put a undersized hole in the center for something to roughly go off of later on then Weld it all on with as much weld and passes as i felt was needed and then machine the center hole to size. The way i did it was make the plate all to the nice perfect specs i wanted for the perfect fit on the transmission Only to weld it and it all go to **** in a hurry, Welding it pulled/warped it all around more than i thought initially but live and learn i suppose
Id talk to the welder on all of this first as Id go about building it an entire different way as i did in this thread if i was to make a 2nd one. Id put a undersized hole in the center for something to roughly go off of later on then Weld it all on with as much weld and passes as i felt was needed and then machine the center hole to size.
That's a good point. I will talk to the welder and brainstorm some ideas on how to index the plate before welding. The way you made it was for sure a common sense way to go about it.
The process i was rolling around in my head was to make a steel engine flange, steel xmsn flange, mount the xmsn vertically onto the engine to get them lined up then brige the gap with chromemoly tube then wrap the whole thing in chromemoly sheet. would probably end up with a pretzel. I really like your idea much better.
That's a good point. I will talk to the welder and brainstorm some ideas on how to index the plate before welding. The way you made it was for sure a common sense way to go about it.
The process i was rolling around in my head was to make a steel engine flange, steel xmsn flange, mount the xmsn vertically onto the engine to get them lined up then brige the gap with chromemoly tube then wrap the whole thing in chromemoly sheet. would probably end up with a pretzel. I really like your idea much better.
One out of steel would certainly be interesting, Without a lot of thinking i cant quite picture it in my head but have seen some interesting steel ones made for other cars online. My only worry here is its an old cast housing with a plate welded to it so cracking is always a possibility, one of these days i jut need to get me a 300+ amp machine and do it again and lay as many passes as i want to on it but i might be over thinking it a bit. Its just hard to have someone else do it considering how much work goes into indexing it and what not while building it. This was my life for about 3 days 😂
Got a little work done on the PPF delete solution.. It could have been alot better but overhead welding aint my thing i guess. Now just have to figure out all the clutch/hydraulic stuff and get a driveshaft made and i think itll be rolling and then to short out the NB cluster swap and speedometer and what not. Still been kinda slacking on the whole thing but nice to see atleast one hurdle go back together.
Well its been a while since updating but I think i almost have it wrapped up and unless something comes up hoping to have it rolling in a week or so, Waiting on a new master cyl and clutch lines. I current have a 13/16 wilwood non compact and it doesnt fit in the engine bay i got in a hurry and at the time didnt see the compact one so i went ahead and went with a 7/8 compact wilwood so hopefully its enough volume to mose the Tilton throw out bearing i was skeptical that a 13/16 master would have enough , the math was kinda confusing on calculating that. In the meantime been working on my hackjob exhaust and had to break it into a 2 piece downpipe, Its a bit tighter on space with the bell housing flange, i plan on remaking this out of stainless when i go to a 1.8L and proper manifold and what not but gets me by for now.
02-11-2024, 04:27 PM
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