Tremec TKX Swap behind a BP/B6
#122
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Yeah I had to go with a factory style rubber trans crossmember mount. Significant difference; there's no vibrations with a factory ford rubber mount. The poly mount was unbearable.
I had to adjust pinion angle to fix vibrations that were vehicle speed related (put car on stands with wheels off and adjusted pinion while the driveline was running at speed...your appendages/life may matter more) but the rubber mount fixed rpm resonances.
Once correct pinion angle was found I used an NB bumpstop cut into washers/spacers as my ppf to crossmember mount/isolator. Something like: bolt/washer/nb bumpstop foam washer/ppf/foam/crossmember/foam/washer/nut
I had to adjust pinion angle to fix vibrations that were vehicle speed related (put car on stands with wheels off and adjusted pinion while the driveline was running at speed...your appendages/life may matter more) but the rubber mount fixed rpm resonances.
Once correct pinion angle was found I used an NB bumpstop cut into washers/spacers as my ppf to crossmember mount/isolator. Something like: bolt/washer/nb bumpstop foam washer/ppf/foam/crossmember/foam/washer/nut
Also you mentioned you did the math on the heimjoint ppf delete, do you remember roughly how much force that thing is taking? im just worried ima twist the subframe or something i dont want that thing shooting up through my gas tank... I was debating putting it back on to test and ease of angle adjustment
#123
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That looks closer to mine now. Except I have rubber at the trans mount and foam urethane nb bump stop at the ppf mount. I used a digital and analog angle gauge with ok results but ultimately i just moved the ppf up and down while the driveline was running to get the best spot, which wasn't exactly what the angle gauges were saying. I think I couldn't find a square enough surface on my trans for the angle gauges.
This is also how I 'balanced' by driveshaft with a hose clamp after having 3 different driveshaft shops balance it.
This is also how I 'balanced' by driveshaft with a hose clamp after having 3 different driveshaft shops balance it.
#124
Damn, I should've sub'd to this thread a long time ago. Lots of good information in here. I never thought about running the car up to 70 in a lift and messing with PPF angle on the fly to identify where it's happiest. Agreed that it's sketchy as f*ck but I suppose you could identify the ideal diff angle rather quickly haha.
After all the hours of adjusting PPF/trans angles to try and get my vibration sorted, I only found that most angles produce the exact same effect, with a couple more extreme angles making the vibration marginally worse.
After all the hours of adjusting PPF/trans angles to try and get my vibration sorted, I only found that most angles produce the exact same effect, with a couple more extreme angles making the vibration marginally worse.
#125
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It wasn't tenths of a degree, more like 2 degrees maybe.
Ultimately I had to set my drive shaft like the bottom diagram in this picture as I couldn't get the diff pinion angle low enough to match the second diagram. It says absolutely not even though it's just as good as the second one (assuming pinion to driveshaft angle is the same on both ends), both of which are better than the top diagram. Another example of garbage info on the internet. It's in effect a double cardan CV joint when angled like the bottom diagram.
Also take a look at your angle horizontally; crankshaft centerline may not be parallel to the diff pinion centerline when viewed from above.
Ultimately I had to set my drive shaft like the bottom diagram in this picture as I couldn't get the diff pinion angle low enough to match the second diagram. It says absolutely not even though it's just as good as the second one (assuming pinion to driveshaft angle is the same on both ends), both of which are better than the top diagram. Another example of garbage info on the internet. It's in effect a double cardan CV joint when angled like the bottom diagram.
Also take a look at your angle horizontally; crankshaft centerline may not be parallel to the diff pinion centerline when viewed from above.
#126
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It wasn't tenths of a degree, more like 2 degrees maybe.
Ultimately I had to set my drive shaft like the bottom diagram in this picture as I couldn't get the diff pinion angle low enough to match the second diagram. It says absolutely not even though it's just as good as the second one (assuming pinion to driveshaft angle is the same on both ends), both of which are better than the top diagram. Another example of garbage info on the internet.
Also take a look at your angle horizontally; crankshaft centerline may not be parallel to the diff pinion centerline when viewed from above.
Ultimately I had to set my drive shaft like the bottom diagram in this picture as I couldn't get the diff pinion angle low enough to match the second diagram. It says absolutely not even though it's just as good as the second one (assuming pinion to driveshaft angle is the same on both ends), both of which are better than the top diagram. Another example of garbage info on the internet.
Also take a look at your angle horizontally; crankshaft centerline may not be parallel to the diff pinion centerline when viewed from above.
Last edited by Kanaan; 05-09-2024 at 01:09 PM.
#127
In another thread, @richbobby determined his Miata diff to be offset 16-17mm to the passenger side of the trans. Mine was about the same. We both used lasers to confirm and ended up hogging out the holes in our trans crossmembers to experiment with lateral alignment of the transmission. Rich ended up zip-tying some welding rod together to make an adjustable ruler to measure total angle.
I was not aware that the bottom diagram could be followed. +1 cat to @TurboTim for learnin' me something.
I was not aware that the bottom diagram could be followed. +1 cat to @TurboTim for learnin' me something.
#128
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In another thread, @richbobby determined his Miata diff to be offset 16-17mm to the passenger side of the trans. Mine was about the same. We both used lasers to confirm and ended up hogging out the holes in our trans crossmembers to experiment with lateral alignment of the transmission. Rich ended up zip-tying some welding rod together to make an adjustable ruler to measure total angle.
I was not aware that the bottom diagram could be followed. +1 cat to @TurboTim for learnin' me something.
I was not aware that the bottom diagram could be followed. +1 cat to @TurboTim for learnin' me something.
correct me if im wrong but my current thinking was even if they are offset 16-17mm left to right it shouldnt matter as as long as they are both pointing the same direction (at each other, hard to explain) even left to right angles offset/cancel out each other same way up and down do.. and im being dumb here Turbotim said like the bottom diagram i can do that aswell its just flipped per the diagram doesnt mean transmission has to be angled UP... its close to friday my brains fried for the week 😂. So i guess i can angle my transmission down my 2.7 degrees its at now AND angle the diff also down 2.7
#130
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I just fixed most All of my vibrations, I made that heimjoint ppf delete thing but never ran it much… well I have a full ppf on it now to my crossmember just bolted through the bottom holes and I guess it was bouncing around or wasnt very stiff… I drilled a hole in this ppf and threw that heimjoint thing on it bolted it up its solid now it actually makes less noise with the diff being hard mounted to the subframe than it did before the swap… picture this(pic below) but the ppf keeps going and not cut off. I can confidently say it fixed every vibration I had up to 85ish atleast I had one at 50-60ish then the one at 70-72ish that then never stopped from there. Now I got it up to about 87 and started to feel very slight something but at this point that’s probably something else entirely as my tires are pretty roached at this point. I feel a lot better doing it this way as if the Heim joint setup ever fails it hopefully won’t shoot up through my gas tank…i hope...
Last edited by Kanaan; 05-10-2024 at 01:55 AM.
#131
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One of the last pieces to this puzzle, an NB cluster swap and a Dakoda digital speedo converter box. Swapped in the NA6 oil pressure gauge i took a chance at setting the needle and failed so i need to pull it back apart to do that but other than that its all in and working good. Its nice having VSS now for boost by gear and what not.
The Cluster swap wasn't too bad, followed car passions pinning guide, lots of wires to extend and stuff took a solid 3-4 hours for me at least.
The Cluster swap wasn't too bad, followed car passions pinning guide, lots of wires to extend and stuff took a solid 3-4 hours for me at least.
Last edited by Kanaan; 05-15-2024 at 10:04 AM.
#132
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Lookin good. The TKX has mechanical and electronic speedometer outputs. Your Dakota box is the one that converts electronic signal of the TKX to what the NB electronic speedo wants for an input signal?
I'm not sure why the NB speedo was needed if there was a mechanical speedo on the trans, other than not needing to get the right speedo gear/cable/etc, that whole hassle. You could still use the digital speedo output to drive your ecu boost by speed/gear, or the digital cruise control output on the back of the NA speedo cluster (with a pull up/down resistor).
I'm not sure why the NB speedo was needed if there was a mechanical speedo on the trans, other than not needing to get the right speedo gear/cable/etc, that whole hassle. You could still use the digital speedo output to drive your ecu boost by speed/gear, or the digital cruise control output on the back of the NA speedo cluster (with a pull up/down resistor).
#133
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Lookin good. The TKX has mechanical and electronic speedometer outputs. Your Dakota box is the one that converts electronic signal of the TKX to what the NB electronic speedo wants for an input signal?
I'm not sure why the NB speedo was needed if there was a mechanical speedo on the trans, other than not needing to get the right speedo gear/cable/etc, that whole hassle. You could still use the digital speedo output to drive your ecu boost by speed/gear, or the digital cruise control output on the back of the NA speedo cluster (with a pull up/down resistor).
I'm not sure why the NB speedo was needed if there was a mechanical speedo on the trans, other than not needing to get the right speedo gear/cable/etc, that whole hassle. You could still use the digital speedo output to drive your ecu boost by speed/gear, or the digital cruise control output on the back of the NA speedo cluster (with a pull up/down resistor).
#136
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I wouldn’t quite call it completely fixed but I feel like I can drive the car without it feeling like something’s obviously wrong. Higher speeds it will start to give me a bit of a vibration but it could be anything at this point, as the alignment I’m pretty sure is off. I need to get it up faster to see if it goes away if it does then I don’t think it’s the same issue as before once it started it never got better only worse it plateaued after about 85. And before when I would give it throttle in 5th around 50-60 it would have a horrible hum and vibration that’s gone after bracing the ppf which was a big concern for me.
#137
Tight, well good to hear that it's mostly solid then! I agree, once you're over 90-100mph, there's a lot of vibrational factors at play in these little cars lol. As long as it doesn't feel like something in the drivetrain is at risk, I guess you're good. Congrats on having the swap complete with the converter box too! I was going to go the same route before I got sucked into doing a PiDash haha.
#138
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Tight, well good to hear that it's mostly solid then! I agree, once you're over 90-100mph, there's a lot of vibrational factors at play in these little cars lol. As long as it doesn't feel like something in the drivetrain is at risk, I guess you're good. Congrats on having the swap complete with the converter box too! I was going to go the same route before I got sucked into doing a PiDash haha.
Last edited by Kanaan; 05-15-2024 at 10:21 PM.
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