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Old Mar 17, 2009 | 12:28 AM
  #21  
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Your bar is looking awesome! Serious triangulation.
Connect it to the windshield header for a really drastic difference.
I had these overhead bars added about a year after I had the main roll bar portion done. I noticed a much bigger different adding the over head bars to the roll bar than when initially adding the bar to the OEM car. The difference in ride and the way the car would soak up large bumps was unbelievable.

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Old Mar 17, 2009 | 12:57 AM
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Dudes, figure it out, stop telling him to tie it to the front of the car, he's building this:

Mazda Miata Roll Cage and Racing Supplies

that's why hes calling it a roll CAGE, not a roll BAR.
Old Mar 17, 2009 | 01:03 AM
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Kelly - that is the **** right there. Do you have any more info on those overhead bars or were they just done custom by some shop? Where do they go at the windshield??

-Ryan
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Old Mar 17, 2009 | 01:25 AM
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Originally Posted by curly
Dudes, figure it out, stop telling him to tie it to the front of the car, he's building this:

Mazda Miata Roll Cage and Racing Supplies

that's why hes calling it a roll CAGE, not a roll BAR.
I get it. That is why I said WHEN he welds it to the front of the car, not IF.
Old Mar 17, 2009 | 02:31 AM
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Do you guys mean like this?

Kidding aside, those were a PITA to fit..

Kelly, I have always thought that bar was gorgeous. Was that a Flip Side bar?
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Old Mar 17, 2009 | 09:27 AM
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/\ Even the bolt ins are a pain in the *** in that area on construction.
Good work.....
Interested in the door bar shots when they are installed. Want to see how you are addressing the cutting of the door.
Are you going sans glass or removable glass inserts for transporting?
I am right at that stage now, just have not seen any examples with this to make up my mind yet.
Old Mar 17, 2009 | 02:11 PM
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Originally Posted by Machismo
/\ Even the bolt ins are a pain in the *** in that area on construction.
Good work.....
Interested in the door bar shots when they are installed. Want to see how you are addressing the cutting of the door.
Are you going sans glass or removable glass inserts for transporting?
I am right at that stage now, just have not seen any examples with this to make up my mind yet.
The drivers side will be Nascar bars in the door. The door is fully gutted with window clips. The window goes in and out in about 5 seconds, you can kinda see it in the second picture - the top of the rails are still there, so it slides right in and rests on the clips. When the door is shut, the window can't fall out, so I can still run it on the street, possibly on the track (1/4mi, for sure not on a road track.). Passenger side will go up to the door panel, but I wanted to retain the power window for when I am harnessed in.

MiataCage sells the window clips seperately from the kit for around $35.

The little wedge in the lower corner was taken out too, it was just a PITA and I hadn't gotten to it when I took the pic.
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Old Mar 18, 2009 | 09:17 AM
  #28  
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Sweet..... I've seen both versions of the window clips. Advanced Autosports has some as well I believe. That is the route I will be going then......time for another diet.
Old Mar 18, 2009 | 11:26 AM
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I don't quite understand how the Advanced Autosports "clips" work, they seem like alot of excess metal for what they do. It would be nice if they showed them installed. Do you just need clips for one side or both?
Old Mar 18, 2009 | 11:30 AM
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I wondered the same for the Advanced parts. Have yet to see any "install" pics. Also wondered how much had to be cut for bolt in. I still want to keep the bolster, but could care less about the card. I have installed metal door cards for plans of cutting anyways.
I would like for both sides, but will prolly only do Nascar style on driver's side. Passengers are very rare in my scenario......
Old Mar 18, 2009 | 11:34 AM
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Here's an older shot just before "bolt-in"...... I am not scared of metal sheers.
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Old Mar 18, 2009 | 11:51 AM
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Originally Posted by Machismo
I wondered the same for the Advanced parts. Have yet to see any "install" pics. Also wondered how much had to be cut for bolt in. I still want to keep the bolster, but could care less about the card. I have installed metal door cards for plans of cutting anyways.
I would like for both sides, but will prolly only do Nascar style on driver's side. Passengers are very rare in my scenario......
You can keep the bolster no problem. If you look at the door panel, there is a seam towards the top where the door panel becomes 2 layers, the outer layer is thick steel. I cut right along that using it as a straight edge. The bolster clips on after that.

If you end up just doing the drivers side let me know, I have a spare set of MC window clips that more than likely will never be used by anyone over here.
Old Mar 18, 2009 | 11:58 AM
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PM sent......
Old Mar 18, 2009 | 01:45 PM
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This is really excellent. Nice job! But can you clarify one thing for me: You're gutting the driver's side door for NASCAR bars, but you've found a way to retain the stock window with these clips. You say it pops out in about 5 seconds, but does it stay in there securely? I have been wondering a lot about this as I research the prep of the not-to-distant cage build in my 91 project car. i want to retain the window, mostly for storage and transportation, I'd like it to be removable, but I don't want something that's not secure enough to stay put if I want to drive it with the window in...
Old Mar 18, 2009 | 02:00 PM
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Advanced Autosport's solution is prolly what you are after, we have just not seen any installed pics to verify. That is the same problem I want to address as well. I think even with the clips, I will be able to find a way for securing if need be.
Old Mar 18, 2009 | 02:21 PM
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The window will NOT come out when the door is shut with the MC clips. It is still in the window rails (which were cut down to about 3"), so the only way it will come out is straight up. I couldn't remove the window with the door shut even if I tried, the window seal keeps it snug, but if you really tried to pull it out, it would hit the hardtop which would keep it from coming out as well. I plan on having the window in frequently on the street so I trust it. I will take a picture if I remember tonight.

You could easily fab up something to bolt the window in securely, but its not really necessary. Plus, in my state, the window has to be able to open or you get a ticket..
Old Mar 18, 2009 | 02:27 PM
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Ahaaaa...... I failed to understand that you still retained the window channel.
Perfect then! and less is more for this application. Your second pic (after some careful study) is just fine for what I need.
Old Mar 19, 2009 | 11:14 AM
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Okay, I follow. Looks like a good solution. Thanks for the response!
Old Mar 19, 2009 | 11:46 AM
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So I decided that I am not content with the down tube location as far as head room goes.. Guess its on hold now because I need my hardtop brackets before I continue, the brackets that I knew I for sure wouldn't need to put the cage in (dumbass). I'll essentially be permanently mounting the brackets to the windshield pillar so I can tuck the bar directly under them, should give me an extra 1"-1.5" of head room..

Does anyone else have a cage? I am curious of typical drivers headroom when harnessed in. It seems like my helmet will hit no matter how I run the tubes, aside from bolting my seat directly to the floor and removing the stock seat mounts which I am hesitant to do.
Old Mar 19, 2009 | 02:39 PM
  #40  
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What kind of weight does a cage like that add?



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