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Old 08-22-2012, 07:02 PM   #21
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So you sent him your own bearings because you cheaped out, and then cry about it incessantly when he told you that your bearings were the reason they failed?

I've got ART hubs on both cars. I had one fail on Rover and he sent me a replacement for the cost of shipping. Kindly stop whining about how your desire to save a few bucks on the core bearings bit you in the ***.
So without directly replying to me, what you're saying is. Buy the expensive ones because you get what you pay for?

Plus the ducting kit *which i think would help in any scenario and would recommend to anyone.*
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Old 08-22-2012, 07:20 PM   #22
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The best bearings are probably OEM, repacked with Amsoil2000 grease, and then add real ARP studs. A little cheaper than ART and a bit better (better grease), but a lot more work.
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Old 08-22-2012, 09:05 PM   #23
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The ***** in stock/replacement OTS hubs have a big variation in ball diameter. Mic them and see. So what happens is the three largest ***** take the vast majority of the load in the bearing while the rest are just along for the ride. The three ***** get pissed off at this, locally heating the living christ out of the grease, the grease fails, the bearing fails.

So for our LeMons car we now roll our own hubs -- take one crusty old but serviceable hub, replace ***** with new higher-grade ***** (higher grade = less variation in diameter), pack in zoomy grease (I like Mobilith SHC220), done.

Save for one freak ball failure (it fractured clean in two!), no more failed hubs.
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Old 08-22-2012, 09:54 PM   #24
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Where do you acquire your *****?
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Old 08-22-2012, 10:06 PM   #25
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Karters go nuts for bearing setups.
I know it's comparing apples to llamas, but it's pretty interesting to read about their ceramic bearings:

Boca Bearing Company :: Ceramic Bearing Specialists

Looking at their application page, they must not be strong enough for automotive use.
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Old 08-22-2012, 11:46 PM   #26
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The secret behind the ART hubs is the ball bearings themselves. Ball bearings are graded based on roundness. The factory ones are more egg shaped than the ART ones. I forget the grading numbers of each but the difference is big. Add a good grease and you have the best case scenario for a weak part

Last edited by k24madness; 08-26-2012 at 03:17 AM.
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Old 08-23-2012, 12:13 AM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Savington View Post
So you sent him your own bearings because you cheaped out, and then cry about it incessantly when he told you that your bearings were the reason they failed?

I've got ART hubs on both cars. I had one fail on Rover and he sent me a replacement for the cost of shipping. Kindly stop whining about how your desire to save a few bucks on the core bearings bit you in the ***.
This is what I get for believing everything I read on the Internet.
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Old 08-24-2012, 12:18 AM   #28
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Thank you!

BTW- I'm going to enjoy your old suspension once I have an engine in the car
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Old 08-25-2012, 10:26 PM   #29
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The egay hubs on my car are still working great after about 1000 track miles or so...i have plenty of hose ducting and don't have to do too much braking either

and we'll see how long they last after the car is running again...I'll probably repack some new ones when I replace them.
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Old 08-26-2012, 03:13 AM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JKav View Post
So for our LeMons car we now roll our own hubs -- take one crusty old but serviceable hub, replace ***** with new higher-grade ***** (higher grade = less variation in diameter), pack in zoomy grease (I like Mobilith SHC220), done.
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Where do you acquire your *****?
Yes, this - where can we source these? My googling keeps leading me to assembled bearings, not the ball bearings themselves.
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Old 08-26-2012, 11:04 AM   #31
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Dunno if this link is going to work: Welcome to TimkenStore.com!
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Old 08-26-2012, 03:38 PM   #32
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I bought a sackful of ***** (a ********?) a couple years ago, can't recall where, might have been here. There are a half dozen vendors online selling loose *****.

***** are standardized items based on diameter, material and grade. I think the stock ***** work out to a G100 grade. So buy G10; that's an order of magnitude reduction in variation.

You can also choose from a few common ball materials in terms of hardness/load capacity/cost. There's plain ol' chromium steel (aka 52100; probably what the stock ones are). The next step up is M50 tool steel. Then silicon nitride (ceramic).
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Old 08-26-2012, 07:09 PM   #33
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What size are our *****? I really don't want to remove them to check the size (ouch!).
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Old 09-09-2012, 05:05 PM   #34
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Originally Posted by Scrappy Jack View Post
You may have picked up on this but someone else reading this thread that hasn't read Hustler's tela novella might not have, but I believe Hustler more accurately said the cheapest Chinese hubs that have been heat-treated should be an improvement when re-packed with the Amsoil grease.

I only point out the specifics because I remember using his input when buying mine. I think they were ~$85 - $90 shipped from a place like Detroit Axle. More specifically, I remember seeing some that did not appear to have been heat-treated.
I was going through my Photobucket account and found this picture that I thought might be helpful for people searching in the future.

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What front hubs to buy-heattreatedwheelbearing.jpg  
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Old 09-09-2012, 05:40 PM   #35
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Just get cheap ones and replace as needed, because by the time you shell out $$ for ARTs you will have someone drive into your front wheel and damage the part. Ask me how I know.
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Old 09-10-2012, 12:39 AM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jkav
***** are standardized items based on diameter, material and grade. I think the stock ***** work out to a G100 grade. So buy G10; that's an order of magnitude reduction in variation.

Thanks, Jkav. For those of us who don't deal with material specification in this area this is all useful information.

Quote:
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What size are our *****? I really don't want to remove them to check the size (ouch!).
I don't have the tools to measure this to the tolerance I would want to measure to. This is the last unknown. We have Grade: G10. We have material: Chromium Steel. Just need diameter now. Then we will know what to shop for.
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Old 09-10-2012, 08:38 PM   #37
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0.4375" is what I measured using a caliper. This was on a hub that came off of my car at ~180k miles so I have no idea if it was OEM or not.

I got a cheap hub once that had smaller ***** in it so I'd measure your own ***** before ordering.
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Old 09-11-2012, 12:31 PM   #38
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Do I measure with, or without ...

I'm sorry, that ain't right. Lord please forgive me. Save the Pigmys in New Guinea.
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Old 09-11-2012, 01:03 PM   #39
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Do I measure with, or without ...
You must be clean shaven in order to get a proper measurement. Dont forget the witch hazel to get the bumplies down.
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Old 09-12-2012, 02:06 AM   #40
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I measured some bearings and they were 0.4055 inch which is very close to 0.40625 or 13/32".

100 of them for $17.77
100 13/32" inch Diameter Chrome Steel Ball Bearing G10 Ball Bearings

I think these ones were stock 190k miles ones from a 91. I have another set of new ebay hubs, so I'll measure those
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