What front hubs to buy
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 5,718
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From: Detroit (the part with no rules or laws)
So you sent him your own bearings because you cheaped out, and then cry about it incessantly when he told you that your bearings were the reason they failed?
I've got ART hubs on both cars. I had one fail on Rover and he sent me a replacement for the cost of shipping. Kindly stop whining about how your desire to save a few bucks on the core bearings bit you in the ***.
I've got ART hubs on both cars. I had one fail on Rover and he sent me a replacement for the cost of shipping. Kindly stop whining about how your desire to save a few bucks on the core bearings bit you in the ***.
Plus the ducting kit *which i think would help in any scenario and would recommend to anyone.*
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The best bearings are probably OEM, repacked with Amsoil2000 grease, and then add real ARP studs. A little cheaper than ART and a bit better (better grease), but a lot more work.
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The ***** in stock/replacement OTS hubs have a big variation in ball diameter. Mic them and see. So what happens is the three largest ***** take the vast majority of the load in the bearing while the rest are just along for the ride. The three ***** get pissed off at this, locally heating the living christ out of the grease, the grease fails, the bearing fails.
So for our LeMons car we now roll our own hubs -- take one crusty old but serviceable hub, replace ***** with new higher-grade ***** (higher grade = less variation in diameter), pack in zoomy grease (I like Mobilith SHC220), done.
Save for one freak ball failure (it fractured clean in two!), no more failed hubs.
So for our LeMons car we now roll our own hubs -- take one crusty old but serviceable hub, replace ***** with new higher-grade ***** (higher grade = less variation in diameter), pack in zoomy grease (I like Mobilith SHC220), done.
Save for one freak ball failure (it fractured clean in two!), no more failed hubs.
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Junior Member
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 147
Total Cats: 2
From: Temecula, CA
Karters go nuts for bearing setups.
I know it's comparing apples to llamas, but it's pretty interesting to read about their ceramic bearings:
Boca Bearing Company :: Ceramic Bearing Specialists
Looking at their application page, they must not be strong enough for automotive use.
I know it's comparing apples to llamas, but it's pretty interesting to read about their ceramic bearings:
Boca Bearing Company :: Ceramic Bearing Specialists
Looking at their application page, they must not be strong enough for automotive use.
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The secret behind the ART hubs is the ball bearings themselves. Ball bearings are graded based on roundness. The factory ones are more egg shaped than the ART ones. I forget the grading numbers of each but the difference is big. Add a good grease and you have the best case scenario for a weak part
Last edited by k24madness; Aug 26, 2012 at 02:17 AM.
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Junior Member
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 63
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From: Renton, WA
So you sent him your own bearings because you cheaped out, and then cry about it incessantly when he told you that your bearings were the reason they failed?
I've got ART hubs on both cars. I had one fail on Rover and he sent me a replacement for the cost of shipping. Kindly stop whining about how your desire to save a few bucks on the core bearings bit you in the ***.
I've got ART hubs on both cars. I had one fail on Rover and he sent me a replacement for the cost of shipping. Kindly stop whining about how your desire to save a few bucks on the core bearings bit you in the ***.
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Junior Member
Joined: Dec 2007
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BTW- I'm going to enjoy your old suspension once I have an engine in the car
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Junior Member
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 102
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From: Houston, TX
The egay hubs on my car are still working great after about 1000 track miles or so...i have plenty of hose ducting and don't have to do too much braking either 
and we'll see how long they last after the car is running again...I'll probably repack some new ones when I replace them.
and we'll see how long they last after the car is running again...I'll probably repack some new ones when I replace them.
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I bought a sackful of ***** (a ********?) a couple years ago, can't recall where, might have been here. There are a half dozen vendors online selling loose *****.
***** are standardized items based on diameter, material and grade. I think the stock ***** work out to a G100 grade. So buy G10; that's an order of magnitude reduction in variation.
You can also choose from a few common ball materials in terms of hardness/load capacity/cost. There's plain ol' chromium steel (aka 52100; probably what the stock ones are). The next step up is M50 tool steel. Then silicon nitride (ceramic).
***** are standardized items based on diameter, material and grade. I think the stock ***** work out to a G100 grade. So buy G10; that's an order of magnitude reduction in variation.
You can also choose from a few common ball materials in terms of hardness/load capacity/cost. There's plain ol' chromium steel (aka 52100; probably what the stock ones are). The next step up is M50 tool steel. Then silicon nitride (ceramic).
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You may have picked up on this but someone else reading this thread that hasn't read Hustler's tela novella might not have, but I believe Hustler more accurately said the cheapest Chinese hubs that have been heat-treated should be an improvement when re-packed with the Amsoil grease.
I only point out the specifics because I remember using his input when buying mine. I think they were ~$85 - $90 shipped from a place like Detroit Axle. More specifically, I remember seeing some that did not appear to have been heat-treated.
I only point out the specifics because I remember using his input when buying mine. I think they were ~$85 - $90 shipped from a place like Detroit Axle. More specifically, I remember seeing some that did not appear to have been heat-treated.
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Originally Posted by Jkav
***** are standardized items based on diameter, material and grade. I think the stock ***** work out to a G100 grade. So buy G10; that's an order of magnitude reduction in variation.
Thanks, Jkav. For those of us who don't deal with material specification in this area this is all useful information.
I don't have the tools to measure this to the tolerance I would want to measure to. This is the last unknown. We have Grade: G10. We have material: Chromium Steel. Just need diameter now. Then we will know what to shop for.
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0.4375" is what I measured using a caliper. This was on a hub that came off of my car at ~180k miles so I have no idea if it was OEM or not.
I got a cheap hub once that had smaller ***** in it so I'd measure your own ***** before ordering.
I got a cheap hub once that had smaller ***** in it so I'd measure your own ***** before ordering.
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I measured some bearings and they were 0.4055 inch which is very close to 0.40625 or 13/32".
100 of them for $17.77
100 13/32" inch Diameter Chrome Steel Ball Bearing G10 Ball Bearings
I think these ones were stock 190k miles ones from a 91. I have another set of new ebay hubs, so I'll measure those
100 of them for $17.77
100 13/32" inch Diameter Chrome Steel Ball Bearing G10 Ball Bearings
I think these ones were stock 190k miles ones from a 91. I have another set of new ebay hubs, so I'll measure those
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