I ran the ebay clutch and alum flywheel on my track car with no probems.

 

In defense of the Egay clutches, I have Phil's used-beat to ****-F1 stage 3 in my car now. The bitch holds 15psi of an Egay 2870 like a champ.

 

I had the same ACT 6-PUK unsprung clutch and I loved it. I also made 350WHP 305WTQ and never slipped. Thats over what ACT rates the clutch for also.

 

That bitch held 26 psi from an eBay 2870, respect!
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I'm finding it real hard not to get another one for my NB. I'd love the FM kit, but it's hard to ignore my success with the ebay piece.
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The success with fleabay kits is sporadic. That's the real problem here.

 

Exactly, I am a lazy bum and do not want to pull a transmission again because the clutch dies after a week.

 

So aside from general cleanliness and not dropping/bending the damn thing, what is all the "installed right" stuff. I don't mean to call anyones skill level into question, but exactly how does one install a clutch wrong? I have a freshly resurfaced 1.8 flywheel here waiting and will be buying the F1 stage 3 when I am in the states in a month (they are MUCH cheaper there). any tips as to what special procedure I need to do?

Yes, I know this is an old thread, but hey I searched right?

 

Clean the flywheel, pressure plate and clutch disc surfaces with liberal amounts of brake cleaner.
Install a new pilot bearing.
Use new bolts on the pressure plate if you can.
Tighten them in a star pattern, and in three stages, using a torque wrench.
Grease the splines of the input shaft using graphite grease.
Bleed and adjust your clutch hydraulics, adjust the pedal height.
Break in the new clutch properly.

 

Lots of people use shitty throw out bearings and don't use a resurfaced flywheel. The resurfacing is very important. It is not a bolt off/on job.

 

Aside from replacing the bolts all stuff I would have done anyway. I am a pro mechanic so its all 2nd nature, but written out like that I suppose there is potential to screw it up. Been so long I forgot the days when I would reuse everything and tighten it all in a circle.

 

I was responding to Blaize's post where he said he had a resurfaced flywheel.
A true flywheel is imperative for a proper clutch job.

 

It has never been that the clutches were installed wrong, it is just clutches do not work correctly. For example Braineack and I installed a cheap clutch in his car that he got in a group buy. It installed fine in the morning, but then we could not get it to engage correctly, even when adjusting the clutch pedal rod. So we had to take it back out and install some spacers to get it to engage correctly. Then later that week it failed. So we changed the clutch 3 times within a weeks span. The savings of a hundred bucks or so was not worth the amount of times we had to pull the transmission. I would much rather splurge for an FM, ACT, or 949 Twin-Disk and only have to do it once, then cheap out and have to do the job multiple times.

 

I need to do this.

 

I had the F1 S3 on my '94 and it worked fine. A little chatter here and there, and I wouldn't do it again for a daily driver, but for the price I didn't have much to complain about. I went with the FM1 this time and it drives even better than stock.

 

Basically, for the price:

F1 Stage 1 - Win
F1 Stage 2 - Fail
F1 Stage 3 - Win

There's nothing hit or miss about it.

 

I have to say I've had pretty much good experiences with eBay clutches. Only problem I had was my old s13 had kind of a spongy pedal. But the other 4, number 4 being my miata is holding strong.