Wilwood Big Brake or Corrado - Page 2 - Miata Turbo Forum - Boost cars, acquire cats.

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Old 05-12-2010, 11:38 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by Savington View Post
The stock Corrado rotors. I'm not talking like cracks where you look from 3ft and go "HOLY CRAP DUDE TOW THE CAR HOME', I'm talking like little tiny beginnings of hairline fractures. Nothing that hasn't been seen before, it's a really chronic problem on stock C5 Vette brakes. Still, I figured I should jump up to a rotor that's properly vented, unlike the stock Corrado rotor.

Upgraded MC is a good plan too. I'm going to prototype a 626 master cylinder and see if an install kit makes sense, or whether it just ends up being a drop-in part. BikeInDirt, one of the Cali track crew guys, has it on his car and raves about it.

XP8s will be fine for someone just starting out. Keep an eye on pad life, and if it starts to dip below the 4-5 day mark consider stepping up to the next compound. If you go too high, though, you run around with the pads below their optimal operating temp and they wear quickly as well. The three compounds (8, 10, and 12) also have different modulation and initial bite characteristics - the 10s are a bit softer and modulate with pedal travel vs. pressure, while the 12s have a crisper initial bite and modulate with pressure.
I'm still a month or two away from buying the brake parts, so I will for sure keep an eye out on the 626 MC situation. Surely you could set that up for less than the $230 for the Wilwood. If not, I'll probably just do the Wilwood to avoid regret later for having skipped out on it.

So no cracks evident on the RB slotted (I assume slotted) as of yet?
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Old 05-13-2010, 03:19 AM   #22
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Another question. Anybody sell just rear brake lines? The TSE Wilwood kit only comes with the front of course, and I don't want to buy another full set of lines. Never seen just a front or rear set alone, always a set of 4.
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Old 05-13-2010, 07:19 AM   #23
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So no cracks evident on the RB slotted (I assume slotted) as of yet?
Given enough power and cooling absence, you will see hair line cracks in 2-piece DBA rotors (a.k.a. Goodwin V4). Within a day.
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Old 05-13-2010, 12:21 PM   #24
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Another question. Anybody sell just rear brake lines? The TSE Wilwood kit only comes with the front of course, and I don't want to buy another full set of lines. Never seen just a front or rear set alone, always a set of 4.
I think I have the rear two lines and the distribution block out of my spare set of lines I bought when I chafed one of the front ones and had to buy a whole nuther set of 4 LOL. These are the Advanced Autosport lines, for stock calipers. PM me if interested.
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Old 05-13-2010, 12:56 PM   #25
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Originally Posted by NA6C-Guy View Post
Another question. Anybody sell just rear brake lines? The TSE Wilwood kit only comes with the front of course, and I don't want to buy another full set of lines. Never seen just a front or rear set alone, always a set of 4.
trackdog
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Old 05-13-2010, 01:00 PM   #26
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You should be able to do our BBK, a set of RB rotors, Carbotechs, and a liter of ATE for like $1000-1050 shipped. Add a prop valve and you'll have a really good setup.
This is a solid set up and its worked well for me aside from the foreign object ruining a caliper. I have different feelings about the Carbotech pads than everyone on this forum, but if you're a cheapskate like me I recommend Hawks.

I'm going to try these DTC-60's out and if that doesn't work I'm going back to Hawk blue front (hps on the street), and Carbotech xp12 in the rear. For some reason the Racing Brake guys advise against using Carbotech with their rotors due to some variation in the rotor metals.
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Old 05-13-2010, 03:22 PM   #27
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Originally Posted by Spookyfish View Post
Given enough power and cooling absence, you will see hair line cracks in 2-piece DBA rotors (a.k.a. Goodwin V4). Within a day.
Make it sound like you track guys keep stacks of rotors handy for immanent failure...


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For some reason the Racing Brake guys advise against using Carbotech with their rotors due to some variation in the rotor metals.
Where did you read this? I looked over all of their technical pages and couldn't find anything related to that.

I'll try it out anyway.
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Old 05-13-2010, 04:08 PM   #28
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Where did you read this? I looked over all of their technical pages and couldn't find anything related to that.

I'll try it out anyway.
Its hidden in that site somewhere. They claim the Carbotech pads clogged the rotor or some weird **** like that. I still don't buy Carbotech because I've had two sets in the front and they sucked *** both times.
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Old 05-13-2010, 05:03 PM   #29
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Seems like once you got a layer formed, it wouldn't be an issue. Even if the Carbotechs suck, I wouldn't know it. Anything is better than shitty parts store oe replacements.
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Old 05-13-2010, 07:19 PM   #30
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Late in to this but I'd recommend just do the M-tuned fronts with corrado's first. You'll have $100 in brackets and $60 in rotors. Spend the big bucks on a better brake set up if and when you find this isn't adequate for your driving. The big buck set up will save you time and money in the long run. The pads for the wilwoods have a lot more material in them and last longer but don't cost any more than for our stock brakes. With how quick you can change pads with them it's much easier to run dedicated track pads and use cheap pads for the street.

I've been running xp10 fronts and xp8 rears for a year now. They work pretty well as a DD/track day set up. I've heard really good things about Cobalt lately. I'm likely going to give them a shot when I need pads again. They don't need the break in that Carbotech does. Don't know about how corrosive the dust may be though.
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Old 05-13-2010, 07:28 PM   #31
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Late in to this but I'd recommend just do the M-tuned fronts with corrado's first. You'll have $100 in brackets and $60 in rotors. Spend the big bucks on a better brake set up if and when you find this isn't adequate for your driving. The big buck set up will save you time and money in the long run. The pads for the wilwoods have a lot more material in them and last longer but don't cost any more than for our stock brakes. With how quick you can change pads with them it's much easier to run dedicated track pads and use cheap pads for the street.

I've been running xp10 fronts and xp8 rears for a year now. They work pretty well as a DD/track day set up. I've heard really good things about Cobalt lately. I'm likely going to give them a shot when I need pads again. They don't need the break in that Carbotech does. Don't know about how corrosive the dust may be though.
The Trackspeed Wilwood setup and Corrado rotors still tickles my fancy. If I'm going to do it, I would rather go ahead and do it right the first time. Even the M-Tuned way, I would still be spending $100 on brackets, $100+ for lines, roughly $300 on rotors and another $200ish on pads. Pretty much everything but the calipers. Might as well go ahead and spend a bit more and get them the first time around.
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Old 05-14-2010, 12:46 AM   #32
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Go for it. You will be happy. You will regret spending almost as much and not just spending the litttle bit extra.

Wilwoods are some good caliper and at least they look good too for the bling factor.
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Old 05-14-2010, 01:02 AM   #33
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GO for the willwoods they last a long long time, brake like crazy and are so easy to change a cave man can do it. i love the willwoods. i think they are worth the extra money, to do it right the first time.
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Old 05-14-2010, 01:12 AM   #34
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I would consider the 4 POT dynapro if you're going to get wilwoods. Having to fix multiple leaky bleeder screws and fittings + the metal toothpick pad retainer has me second guessing if I made the right caliper choice going with the dynalite. I haven't looked into what this means for pad selection or cost, though.
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Old 05-14-2010, 02:14 AM   #35
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I would consider the 4 POT dynapro if you're going to get wilwoods. Having to fix multiple leaky bleeder screws and fittings + the metal toothpick pad retainer has me second guessing if I made the right caliper choice going with the dynalite. I haven't looked into what this means for pad selection or cost, though.
Will the Trackspeed brackets work with the dynopro's? Sorry in advance for not doing my homework.
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Old 05-14-2010, 03:59 AM   #36
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Will the Trackspeed brackets work with the dynopro's? Sorry in advance for not doing my homework.
If you get the right ones they will. We have 6 piston dynapros on Savington's car right now. Shoot us an email if you are interested and we can help you out. [email protected]
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Old 05-14-2010, 05:59 AM   #37
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NA6C-Guy,

Either option will get the job done. There is roughly a 12 lb difference between the two options. The original DBA rotor or our 949 V4 replacement rotors are a far more thermally efficient design than the OEM Corrado rotor. Total thermal capacity will be greater with our 11" V4 kit compared to a Corrado rotor based kit.

Whichever you choose, you must run brake ducts for track use at your power and weight.

If you are just getting started as a track driver, running street tires and expect to be well over Spec Miata lap records for your local tracks, you have can run either with XP8's. If OTOH, you are running race tires at your weight/power and think you'll be at or below SM records, you'll need the maximum braking and at least XP10's up front.
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Old 05-25-2010, 05:55 AM   #38
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Though I am very subject to changing my mind again, I think for now I am going to go with the M-Tuned front kit, RB Corrado front and stock Miata size RB rears, XP10's, some kind of lines, and just run the stock calipers and master cylinder for now, for cost reasons. I'm not realistically going to be tracking it any for the foreseeable future, so for now that will be more than good enough for my spirited daily driving / weekend fun / occasional autocross or possibly a track event or two. When the time comes, I'm only BBK V4 and master cylinder away. This whole staggered build sucks, trying to build an eventual track car while still having to daily it for another year or more. Things will just have to be eventual and chaotic when they do happen. Probably going to cost me more doing some stuff twice, but oh well. Thanks for the help so far. Maybe one day I will actually be able to hit the track.

As of now, tires will be my first purchase, with a good alignment, followed up by the Teins, then the brakes lastly. My transmission isn't playing nice right now, so it may interfere and force me to throw money at it to make it leave me alone, so who knows.
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Old 05-25-2010, 12:23 PM   #39
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Originally Posted by NA6C-Guy View Post
Though I am very subject to changing my mind again, I think for now I am going to go with the M-Tuned front kit, RB Corrado front and stock Miata size RB rears, XP10's, some kind of lines, and just run the stock calipers and master cylinder for now, for cost reasons. I'm not realistically going to be tracking it any for the foreseeable future, so for now that will be more than good enough for my spirited daily driving / weekend fun / occasional autocross or possibly a track event or two. When the time comes, I'm only BBK V4 and master cylinder away. This whole staggered build sucks, trying to build an eventual track car while still having to daily it for another year or more. Things will just have to be eventual and chaotic when they do happen. Probably going to cost me more doing some stuff twice, but oh well. Thanks for the help so far. Maybe one day I will actually be able to hit the track.

As of now, tires will be my first purchase, with a good alignment, followed up by the Teins, then the brakes lastly. My transmission isn't playing nice right now, so it may interfere and force me to throw money at it to make it leave me alone, so who knows.
To sway you back to the wilwood setup, I sold my front (New) M-Tuned BBK, 1.8 brackets, calipers, SS lines, and (new) Porterfield RS4 pads for about 100 less then what I bought the Wilwoods for IIRC.

Just installing them made them worth the money over OEM!
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Old 05-25-2010, 04:01 PM   #40
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To sway you back to the wilwood setup, I sold my front (New) M-Tuned BBK, 1.8 brackets, calipers, SS lines, and (new) Porterfield RS4 pads for about 100 less then what I bought the Wilwoods for IIRC.

Just installing them made them worth the money over OEM!
Well, everything I am doing will be transferable to the Wilwood setup later, so it won't be a complete waste. I'm just thinking of it as I'm only buying 75% of the package now, saving the most expensive parts until I really need them.
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