racing brake says "no" on Carbotechs for their CGI rotors:
http://www.racingbrake.com/v/main/pad_warning.asp

edit: It reads like they're saying "no" to carbotech street pads. I don't really care what they say, but ran across this today and remembered this thread.

I also like:

I've made rotors look like this with Hawk DTC-30 as of late, several other pads throughout the years.

 

Tasty Kool Aid.

 

I have a Jonestown Kool-Aid joke, but the punch-line is too long. lulz

I'm willing to believe this BS if RB is willing to sell me the next set of Corrado rotors at less than $90 each.

 

Hmmm... I really hate complications. I like how they also offer suggestion of what pad TO use. Well if Carbotech isn't a suitable "race" pad, what is? I really don't want anything too aggressive though since it will be more street car than track car. Maybe I would be better off using another manufacturers rotors with the Carbotechs.

 

+1. Anyone really wonder why the rotor company wants you to use pads that cut into the rotors? I've got a couple days now on CT XP12s and RB one-piece rotors with none of the problems they claim.

 

BS claims from one company to another?!? ZOMG WHATS THE WORLD COMING TO!

On another note, I thought chamfered holes made them pointless

 

A couple of days on pads? You must be talking rear pads
Or your brake ducting/cooling is existent instead of phantom

 

So these claims are false then?

 

Considering that XP12's for my Wilwoods are $160 for fronts...it god damn better last more than one day. I'd love to try them again, after they lasted a whopping 45-minutes on my sport brakes thanks to taper, but I'm not in the mood for taking chances on fancy pads.

Carbotech seems to be the only manufacturer who feels the need to charge more for Dynalite pads than OE shapes.

 

Yes, they are false. I don't get any of the funky pulsations, cracks, etc. I also get ~4 days out of a set of front pads, ~8 days out of a set of rear pads.

 

Being as it's mostly a street car, I'm more concerned with the claim of the brakes being catchy. I don't want to drive around with the brakes being jerky, popping at low speeds and being unpredictable just cruising around town. I can't imagine that being a problem though, their claim still makes no sense to me. I'm still not sure as to whether to do the XP8 or 10, probably 8's for a good balance.

 

Ignore everything in that page, none of it is true or correct, I get NONE of those issues. There is no driveability difference between stock Corrado rotors and the RB rotors.

 

Was gonna do anyway, but will do. It's not like I will even notice these problems. At this rate I will never get my car to run right n/a let alone boosted. It's a never ending stream of **** that keeps pushing my build further and further back. Just like last time I had money to do the build. I kept getting held off by little annoyances. Lost money and it all worked decently well. Get some money again and it all starts back up literally within days of getting my job back.

 

I think you need to personally just evaluate where you stand financially to go either way. Although I feel like bang for the buck would probably go to the corrado brakes.

 

For now it will just be the RB Corrado rotors front, RB stock size Miata rears, XP8's, some braided lines and a prop valve. That should be more than enough for me for now. When I feel I need more, the Wilwoods are only a hop skip and a $600 away.

 

Just ordered my brackets for the Corrado upgrade. I'll also be getting the lines and prop valve. Don't know about pads yet. I think this setup will be enough for me right now too.

 

You going with RB rotors? Did you get the m-tuned brackets?

 

DTC-60 > your life...but they will suck *** on the street.

 

Yup, the m-tuned brackets. I don't know about rotors yet. The RB stuffs is too much money. Might just go up to the Advance Auto Parts for that 15% my friend gets me.

 

Make sure you get rotors with the vents in the hat, or your proper fucked if you ever put the car on the track.