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Old 06-10-2012, 07:30 PM   #1
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Default Wilwood installed- pics

I like them and they have a much better feel than the stockers. You can't see it but the kit comes with ss lines.



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Wilwood installed- pics-p1110703.jpg   Wilwood installed- pics-p1110702.jpg   Wilwood installed- pics-p1110701.jpg  
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Old 06-10-2012, 07:32 PM   #2
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Which wilwood kit, from whom?
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Old 06-10-2012, 07:35 PM   #3
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Gorgeous, looks like the Moss kit by the 2 piece rotorsalthough Flyin' Miata and Goodwin are also selling that same kit.

Doing anything to balance out the increased front bias from this kit?
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Old 06-10-2012, 07:36 PM   #4
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Old 06-10-2012, 08:24 PM   #5
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Yes, came from Goodwin, but others selling as well. It was drop shipped from Wilwood I believe. Great value on some good brakes- $500 for rotors, hats, calipers, brackets, all hardware, SS lines and pads (front only).

I've read that nothing needs to be done to the rear, we'll see.
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Old 06-10-2012, 08:45 PM   #6
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Looks nice. So those are the normal rotors, not the thooperr thpecial rotors with pillars and columns that are made by magical kangeroonicorns?

Which stockers did they replace? Your (lack of sig) has no information about your car in it (hint).
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Old 06-10-2012, 08:47 PM   #7
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How much are the replacement rotor rings?

Cool kit for low power. When is someone going to make a vented rear rotor kit for us?

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Old 06-10-2012, 11:16 PM   #8
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Add details in sig please.

That's a really nice looking NA.

Are you the one that posted about interference with Panasports? If so, what size spacer did you end up with?
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Old 06-10-2012, 11:28 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hustler View Post
How much are the replacement rotor rings?

Cool kit for low power. When is someone going to make a vented rear rotor kit for us?
Why low power?
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Old 06-10-2012, 11:50 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EO2K View Post
Why low power?
Because its not 11.3". I guess it also makes sense if you want to run something other than the short list of wheels that accept the huge kit, but if you're not running 6ULs what's the point of going on in this life?
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Old 06-10-2012, 11:55 PM   #11
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Why drilled?

Aren't they more prone to cracking?

Don't newer technology good pads gas very little?
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Old 06-11-2012, 09:12 AM   #12
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Yes, I was the one and a 1/4" spacer did the trick (just). I went with the drilled rotors b/c they look wizzy. I'll admit it. Once "complete" the car will be in the 175hp range and these brakes should be fine. I can always replace the rotors with non-drilled if I see any signs of cracking.

If I was building a track car I would not do it the same.
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Old 06-11-2012, 01:43 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hustler View Post
Because its not 11.3". I guess it also makes sense if you want to run something other than the short list of wheels that accept the huge kit, but if you're not running 6ULs what's the point of going on in this life?
Good point. I haz 6UL, just waiting until I'm fast enough to consistently destroy the stockers before I upgrade to the TSE goodness.

Quote:
Originally Posted by good-win-racing.com
Brian's APPLICATION NOTES: New Bargain front only kit gives you everything need for a front installation. Also, track customers should carefully consider our four wheel kits for a complete balanced setups (which use MUCH stiffer brackets and upgraded rotors, floating connection hardware, etc). Unlike our more expensive kits, this kit is NOT made hubcentric and uses a separate hubcentric ring that we include in the kit. It is a great kit for the price but hats and brackets are less stout than what is in even our least expensive Version 1 kits.
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Originally Posted by Good-Win Racing LLC View Post
Wilwood's kit is using generalized parts, and that means they use a hubcentric ring to adapt the general purpose 4x100 hats to the Miata, and they use extra fittings to adapt the lines, etc. Extra fittings mean extra potential leak locations. Thus, for street customers seeking to drop nearly 5 pounds of unsprung weight per corner while adding thermal capacity the Wilwood kit is currently a steal of a deal. But for our serious track customers we still suggest our complete four wheel version 4 kits which give a thermally balanced setup with everything custom made for this application with hubcentric hats, lines made for the miata with no adapter fittings needed, far more robust T6 hats and brackets, 10 point NAS connection hardware between each rotor and hat, etc.
Glad I looked it up. Looks fine for a street car or autoX machine, but not sure I like all this talk of flexy brackets and non-floating calipers.

carnut169: What pad did you go with? Any changes to the rear yet?
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Old 06-11-2012, 02:19 PM   #14
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I just installed the pads that came with the kit and have made no changes to the rear. It's been raining here for the past couple days and beyond the initial bedding I have not been out in the car.

I would not worry too much about all the "flex and connectors". Everything is stout and appears very well made. I think this is a massive upgrade from the early 1.6 brakes and unless you are threshold braking over and over you'd be more than satisfied.

FWIW, "real" race cars have floating rotors, not floating calipers.
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Old 06-11-2012, 02:47 PM   #15
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Yeah, I meant "floating hardware" but the lack of coffee is getting to me this morning.

As an upgrade from 1.6 fronts? Holy hell, you almost can't loose. Good choice then.
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Old 06-11-2012, 03:00 PM   #16
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Yeah, for $500 it's a great deal. I can say the pedal feels a lot better- likely due to the SS lines.

Bring on a kit for the rear!
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Old 06-11-2012, 03:22 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hustler View Post
Because its not 11.3". I guess it also makes sense if you want to run something other than the short list of wheels that accept the huge kit, but if you're not running 6ULs what's the point of going on in this life?
So these are not recommended for track use in general then? What applications are they suited for as I was looking into these if I ever went to the track this year to get my feet wet in a production car.
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Old 06-11-2012, 04:04 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Landrew View Post
So these are not recommended for track use in general then? What applications are they suited for as I was looking into these if I ever went to the track this year to get my feet wet in a production car.
My If by "production" you mean stock power levels, just run the stock brakes with good pads and tires until you are ready to upgrade.

I'm still on the stock sized units but I'm personally not fast enough to destroy brakes quite yet. Don't get me wrong, the car is plenty fast. They sure get hot at the end of a 20 minute session, but they aren't dead yet so I'm not upgrading yet. I've spent enough on hardware already to know that I need to stop buying parts and start buying track time if I want to go faster.
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Old 06-11-2012, 05:01 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Landrew View Post
So these are not recommended for track use in general then? What applications are they suited for as I was looking into these if I ever went to the track this year to get my feet wet in a production car.
They're fine, run em. They look to be a reasonably priced option.
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Old 06-11-2012, 06:44 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Landrew View Post
So these are not recommended for track use in general then? What applications are they suited for as I was looking into these if I ever went to the track this year to get my feet wet in a production car.
They are more than fine. Hustler is talking out of his ***.
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