Changed out my leaky MC for a new one.
Now the pedal goes to the floor before they grab. Not spongy just excessive travel.
Bench bled MC, and bled brakes. Also ended up blowing out braided line. (Front Driver) Before calling it a day.

Adjust the pushrod?

 

Does it drop if you leave the car parked?

 

No.

 

Did you bench bleed it? I know tons of people who had issues with that because they didn't bench bleed it.

 

1st post. Yes I did.
I assume not bench bleeding it would put a **** ton of air in the system.
I always bench bleed new MC's.

 

Check your wheel bearings. If the pedal engages normally before you drive it, something is changing when you drive, and it's probably a bad wheel bearing. I finally, after chasing this problem for 18-months, swapped all 4-bearings with AMSoil grease and have never looked back.

 

Oh, I think I miss understood. Thought you ment does it drop by itself If I leave it overnight.

Brakes were like that before I took the car out to see how hard they were grabbing.

 

Replaced with same MC model/type/year?
Did you touch (your) pushrod?

 

1. Yes.

2. No

ATM I'm just waiting for the new brake lines to come in. Just want some ideas before I get under the car again.

 

If you don't drive the car, leave it parked, and it never rolls, how does the pedal feel?

 

Same.

 

Adjust the rod.

 

How do you adjust the rod?
Under dash or inside booster?


Edit: NVM I downloaded the service manual form the sticky.
Will update after I change the lines, bleed the system, and adjust the rod.

 

Do yourself a favor and reverse bleed and or tap the calipers, MC, and lines with a deadblow. You'll be surprised to see how much air comes out.

 

Update: The entire system AFAIK has lost all fluid.
How should I got about bleeding the entire system?
I have bench bled the MC on the car.
No access to a power bleeder.

Also just to confirm bleed cylinder order, DR/PR/PF/DF? (D=Driver P=Passenger)

 

Order of the fronts doesn't matter, they are on separate lines. You need to do the LR/DR corner before the RR/PR corner, though.

I don't know how I survived without a pressure bleeder for so long. You should really consider buying one.

 

That's next on my list of maintenance items.

 

My legs thank you for buying one.

 

Everything is fine now.

Pushrod did not need adjustment.
Probably the failing line that caused the problem.

Still think the pads are some sort of track pad, as they don't have any bite cold.

 

Broken Motive brand bleeder, converted to reverse bleed = the easiest dry-line brake bleeding I've done, and you don't have to bleed the master. I haven't bled my brakes since November and I've done 6 track days on them, lol. I do conventional pedal pumping when I already have a good bleed.