Yet another spring rate thread
So, for a subject that has been practically beat to death, it's hard to gather information for what I need. I've got a set of Koni sports, GC collars and FM top hats in the rear. I need springs, but my budget is calling for something like QA1's. Some autocross and somewhat daily driven, but I drive it hard on the street when I do. The QA1's only come in 50lb incriments, so I was thinking of 400/300 to be a good midrange, but I might lean towards 450/300. I do favor oversteer to understeer. I'll probably run a RB solid front sway. I don't claim to fully understand all of this, but I have a general idea of lower BF = smoother ride and higher FRC = more understeer. Anyone care to throw in your 2 cents?
On the FCMS site here are the specs using the 19mm/12mm solid sways.
400/300
BF - 1.09
Roll Stiff - 2,295
FRC - 48.8%
450/300
BF - 1.03
Roll Stiff - 2,411
FRC - 51.3%
On the FCMS site here are the specs using the 19mm/12mm solid sways.
400/300
BF - 1.09
Roll Stiff - 2,295
FRC - 48.8%
450/300
BF - 1.03
Roll Stiff - 2,411
FRC - 51.3%
Last edited by customstreetmachines; Sep 23, 2010 at 11:19 PM.
FWIW, 600lb springs in the front of a miata are pretty much awesome on the street... amazingly not bad, its the rear rates that can really nuke ride quality. Of course, you gotta have the right shocks for it to ride well, but I promise its nothing like a civic slammed on cut springs.
yep yellows. so I'm getting the idea from many sources that rear rates really make the difference. I've heard of people loving a 450/250 setup, which brings the bounce frequency down, but really raises the front roll couple. I don't know in roll couple where the neutral line is between over and understeer. I'll be hitting the 250hp range soon, so that might cause a little oversteer of it's own. the opinions vary, so I'd like to know what you noticed (vs) stock with your setup?
my problem is turn in right now. It feel very neutral and I can stomp the gas around corners, but, when i want to turn the wheel fast and induce oversteer for a quick u-turn or something it just plows. this could be partly due to my lack of an alignment, but without my rear bar I really lost the turn-in response.
when I had FM springs and no rear bar I didn't notice this as much, so I think bringing the FRC back down a little should solve it still without being tail happy in other situations.
when I had FM springs and no rear bar I didn't notice this as much, so I think bringing the FRC back down a little should solve it still without being tail happy in other situations.
my problem is turn in right now. It feel very neutral and I can stomp the gas around corners, but, when i want to turn the wheel fast and induce oversteer for a quick u-turn or something it just plows. this could be partly due to my lack of an alignment, but without my rear bar I really lost the turn-in response.
when I had FM springs and no rear bar I didn't notice this as much, so I think bringing the FRC back down a little should solve it still without being tail happy in other situations.
when I had FM springs and no rear bar I didn't notice this as much, so I think bringing the FRC back down a little should solve it still without being tail happy in other situations.
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 29,085
Total Cats: 375
From: Republic of Dallas
700/400
good valving and a couple clicks of adjustment in front and rear really made a HUGE difference.
RB front bar
FM rear bar
I wish I went 100lb higher front and rear. Well, I ordered 800/500 but someone received the wrong springs and I got to compromise and get my car on the track.
good valving and a couple clicks of adjustment in front and rear really made a HUGE difference.
RB front bar
FM rear bar
I wish I went 100lb higher front and rear. Well, I ordered 800/500 but someone received the wrong springs and I got to compromise and get my car on the track.
I'd go with a decently mid/high front spring to keep the car off the stops. I like my 550/300 much better than the previous 400/300, and the car is actually smoother and more controlled.
my problem is turn in right now. It feel very neutral and I can stomp the gas around corners, but, when i want to turn the wheel fast and induce oversteer for a quick u-turn or something it just plows. this could be partly due to my lack of an alignment, but without my rear bar I really lost the turn-in response.
when I had FM springs and no rear bar I didn't notice this as much, so I think bringing the FRC back down a little should solve it still without being tail happy in other situations.
when I had FM springs and no rear bar I didn't notice this as much, so I think bringing the FRC back down a little should solve it still without being tail happy in other situations.
from what I can gather on the fat cat calculator abs feedback I'm getting is that in a sense, FRC is neutral at 50%, which makes sense, bur driving conditions such as hard turn in, acceleration and other factors are hard to account for. I'm guessing this is why you guys running 700/400 and other high rates do better because you're less effected by these variables. I've come full circle to once again confuse myself.
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 29,085
Total Cats: 375
From: Republic of Dallas
you're running revalved bilsteins? I may revalve my extra set of koni's so I can run higher rate springs






