How-TO: DIY Ford Escort GT Grill Vents...
10-25-2008, 03:18 PM
#22
I removed the pics and post.
My personal opinion as long as were being honest here: These vents can't possibly be that functional as is. They look like cooling vents. That's where I think their function ends. They cover the area of a Large drink lid from Mc Donald's. If they were to be functional, they'd have to cover the bumper from headlight to headlight. Otherwise, they're aesthetic. The vents need to be A: bigger, or B: more plentiful, to see real benefits.
Holding a leaf blower 8 feet from the vents isn't going to prove anything. You need a big warehouse fan, moving air over the entire front of the car. Why? Because when the car is traveling through the air at 40+mph, there are high and low pressure zones created, even inside the bumper area. Something as simple as pressure build-up in front of the rad is going to kill this effectiveness of 4 little vents on the nose. Also, if you were to flow enough air through a vent in the nose, it'd need to be a lot bigger than that.
On the flip side: Its nice to see someone attempting to improve cooling on the car. I think various vent designs should be tested, but at least you're making a move at it. They don't look bad, or really out of place, but I guess even if they did, they'd go right along with your tow hook, sticker and modified rear bumper. Looks like you enjoy being a little different. I think the idea has validity. I just think the execution should be planned out a little more.
My personal opinion as long as were being honest here: These vents can't possibly be that functional as is. They look like cooling vents. That's where I think their function ends. They cover the area of a Large drink lid from Mc Donald's. If they were to be functional, they'd have to cover the bumper from headlight to headlight. Otherwise, they're aesthetic. The vents need to be A: bigger, or B: more plentiful, to see real benefits.
Holding a leaf blower 8 feet from the vents isn't going to prove anything. You need a big warehouse fan, moving air over the entire front of the car. Why? Because when the car is traveling through the air at 40+mph, there are high and low pressure zones created, even inside the bumper area. Something as simple as pressure build-up in front of the rad is going to kill this effectiveness of 4 little vents on the nose. Also, if you were to flow enough air through a vent in the nose, it'd need to be a lot bigger than that.
On the flip side: Its nice to see someone attempting to improve cooling on the car. I think various vent designs should be tested, but at least you're making a move at it. They don't look bad, or really out of place, but I guess even if they did, they'd go right along with your tow hook, sticker and modified rear bumper. Looks like you enjoy being a little different. I think the idea has validity. I just think the execution should be planned out a little more.
Then again, he could have just built a smaller scooper that went from the mouth to the oil cooler and that would have worked the same way.
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10-25-2008, 03:27 PM
#23
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Well, the thing is he doesn't need as much frontal area for the oil cooler as the oil cooler itself has. So while more is better, what he has may be sufficient. (Mike, could you post the area of the vents and the area of the oil cooler?) Ducting will make all the difference in the world. If he built something that directed any air that went through those vents directly through the oil cooler then it would probably work pretty good.
Then again, he could have just built a smaller scooper that went from the mouth to the oil cooler and that would have worked the same way.
Then again, he could have just built a smaller scooper that went from the mouth to the oil cooler and that would have worked the same way.
Like patsmx5 said about ducting. If you could make some sort of ducting with some ABS plastic, or cardboard and fiberglass, the vents would probably work great for directing a stream of air right over the cooler. Other than that, I stick with my last observation. Size or quantity would help the vents as they sit now.
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10-25-2008, 03:36 PM
#24
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Someone who finally gets it! Have a beer! 
Almost everything has been done. I'm trying to find small ways here and there to make mine unique without being cast apart.
Ill try and get some area calculations for you. Making a small "behind the scenes" duct is definitely doable. Any comments on the black screen or mesh behind to keep large debris from finding my tbelt?
Almost everything has been done. I'm trying to find small ways here and there to make mine unique without being cast apart.Ill try and get some area calculations for you. Making a small "behind the scenes" duct is definitely doable. Any comments on the black screen or mesh behind to keep large debris from finding my tbelt?
Last edited by MikeRiv87; 10-25-2008 at 04:14 PM.
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10-25-2008, 03:58 PM
#25
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doing something to be different which is not functional is pretty stupid.
However, they look cool as ****. I don't think they're going to be functional, but if they turn out to be I'm going to follow suit for my oil cooler...if I don't buy the carbontrix kidney's instead.
However, they look cool as ****. I don't think they're going to be functional, but if they turn out to be I'm going to follow suit for my oil cooler...if I don't buy the carbontrix kidney's instead.
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10-25-2008, 04:03 PM
#26
Someone who finally gets it! Have a beer! Almost everything has been done. I'm trying to find small ways here and there to make mine unique without being cast apart.
Ill try and get some area calculations for you. Making a small "behind the scenes" are duct is definitely not out of the question. Any comments on the black screen or mesh behind to keep large debris from finding my tbelt?
Almost everything has been done. I'm trying to find small ways here and there to make mine unique without being cast apart.Ill try and get some area calculations for you. Making a small "behind the scenes" are duct is definitely not out of the question. Any comments on the black screen or mesh behind to keep large debris from finding my tbelt?
1 hole unobstructed will flow more than 5 with mesh or screen. So don't put anything behind them. Just duct it all tight to the oil cooler and then it will appear black as no light will be behind it.
The area thing is gonna be different cause they're at an angle. So really we'd need the area and the angle from vertical. Even that won't be perfect, but it will be close enough. In short, this mod will be 5 times more effective with proper shrouding then without.
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10-25-2008, 04:04 PM
#27
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There are 4 slots that measure 1" across and 3 3/4" from top to bottom. The face of the oil cooler measures 10"x3". Not really sure what to do with those numbers to answer your question. Also the slots are at a 45 degree angle.
I was saying the thing about my timing belt because it's going to be exposed via the protege valve cover. Just went out there and there is plenty of room to make a proper duct and a shroud.
I was saying the thing about my timing belt because it's going to be exposed via the protege valve cover. Just went out there and there is plenty of room to make a proper duct and a shroud.
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10-25-2008, 04:10 PM
#29
I hear they make covers for the timing belt, specifically to keep debris out. Just a rumor though.
Count me in the "they need to be bigger to have much function" club. Then again, oil coolers don't need much flow unless this is a pretty serious track car. Try moving the cooler itself closer to the holes, and shrouding it. The added benefit of the shrouding is that it would have the same function as a screen without blocking airflow.
Props for having the ***** to cut up your bumper and post the results here of all places. They look good, but they can probably function better.
Count me in the "they need to be bigger to have much function" club. Then again, oil coolers don't need much flow unless this is a pretty serious track car. Try moving the cooler itself closer to the holes, and shrouding it. The added benefit of the shrouding is that it would have the same function as a screen without blocking airflow.
Props for having the ***** to cut up your bumper and post the results here of all places. They look good, but they can probably function better.
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10-25-2008, 04:18 PM
#30
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However saying this is the toughest Miata community is actually contradictory because i remember a time when we had rainbows and bunnies for our site banner.
Good Luck... Post pics when your done...
Fight amongst yourself for a while. I'm going to run to loews and check out the heating duct area...
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10-25-2008, 04:40 PM
#33
These vents on the other hand, from what I can see, add flow in front of the rad/cooler so more pressure is added on the correct side. If anything, maybe making some shrouding with abs to direct more flow thru and not around any coolers would make this mod even more effective. Nice clean job in getting all vents even and parallel.
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10-25-2008, 04:42 PM
#34
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lol, 21 track days in 1-year = win
I'm trying to decide if I want to get those kidney vents for brake ducts, put two next to the rad mouth on the pass side, or one right under the escort GT one goes. I wish the openings were bigger, so I plan on cutting them open some.
Right now I'm leaning toward cutting my r-pack lip for the begi scooper (and making a splitter), using the r-pack brake duct vents, then cutting 3 horizontal vents beside the mouth (like machismo) for my 36-row oil cooler.
I'm trying to decide if I want to get those kidney vents for brake ducts, put two next to the rad mouth on the pass side, or one right under the escort GT one goes. I wish the openings were bigger, so I plan on cutting them open some.
Right now I'm leaning toward cutting my r-pack lip for the begi scooper (and making a splitter), using the r-pack brake duct vents, then cutting 3 horizontal vents beside the mouth (like machismo) for my 36-row oil cooler.
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10-25-2008, 04:56 PM
#35
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TSIs flow air in. It would be pretty much impossible for them not to. The problem with TSIs is that it adds air/pressure behind the radiator, thus decreasing the pressure differential across the radiator and defeating the purpose of increased cooling.
These vents on the other hand, from what I can see, add flow in front of the rad/cooler so more pressure is added on the correct side. If anything, maybe making some shrouding with abs to direct more flow thru and not around any coolers would make this mod even more effective. Nice clean job in getting all vents even and parallel.
These vents on the other hand, from what I can see, add flow in front of the rad/cooler so more pressure is added on the correct side. If anything, maybe making some shrouding with abs to direct more flow thru and not around any coolers would make this mod even more effective. Nice clean job in getting all vents even and parallel.
Also, nothing usefull in the duct isle. Everything is way to big. Maybe going with abs or thin sheet metal. I would make a full shroud for the cooler then cut a 3 1/2" hole in the middle. Do something similar for the vent. Then run maybe flexable dryer hose between the two and seal it with epoxy or silicone... Rain and day light will have to make me postpone this part for another day. Once that is done I'm going to seal the 1" gap between the cooler and radiator with that insulating foam that has one side that you peel off a strip and it's sticky. That way when the fan turn on it has no choice but to pull air from the front vent...
Last edited by MikeRiv87; 10-25-2008 at 05:52 PM.
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10-26-2008, 11:00 AM
#37
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I'm only basing my suggestion here, on the fact that I want to learn how to fiberglass:
I would personally take measurements and look at the dimensions of the cooler, the vents and the surrounding area. Then I would take thin cardboard (like the stuff they use to cover the corners of a refrigerator in its box), and cut/ bend it to the desired shape. I'm actually pretty good with cardboard, and I figure getting the right shape shouldn't be that hard. Then I would look at the best way to fiberglass it and finish it.
With aluminum, ABS, or some sort of sheet metal, you're limited by the material's ability to conform. With something like cardboard, you can cut and re-cut all you want for the desired effect. And after fiberglassing it, you can sand and paint it for a smooth clean finish. Maybe... Just maybe, you could pull some molds and make a few for people that want to do something like this.
Also, to seal the ducting to the bumper and cooler, I'd use double sided foam tape and rubber.
I would personally take measurements and look at the dimensions of the cooler, the vents and the surrounding area. Then I would take thin cardboard (like the stuff they use to cover the corners of a refrigerator in its box), and cut/ bend it to the desired shape. I'm actually pretty good with cardboard, and I figure getting the right shape shouldn't be that hard. Then I would look at the best way to fiberglass it and finish it.
With aluminum, ABS, or some sort of sheet metal, you're limited by the material's ability to conform. With something like cardboard, you can cut and re-cut all you want for the desired effect. And after fiberglassing it, you can sand and paint it for a smooth clean finish. Maybe... Just maybe, you could pull some molds and make a few for people that want to do something like this.
Also, to seal the ducting to the bumper and cooler, I'd use double sided foam tape and rubber.
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10-26-2008, 02:20 PM
#38
Multiple air entries isn't necessarily going to do a better job of getting air through the extractors. As mentioned- the first thing to address (with the mouth sealed up) is to reduce the underhood/engine bay pressure. Look at any GT production based raced cars and the exit area is always heavily focused on compared to the entry. For example this corvette has a near stock entry:
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10-26-2008, 03:00 PM
#40
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I'm saying all this while completely disregarding this as a street car.
There are some pictures and background info on VG's here, although some of you won't need any education on the subject.
Vortex Generators: Band-Aids or Magic?
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