How-TO: DIY Ford Escort GT Grill Vents... - Page 3 - Miata Turbo Forum - Boost cars, acquire cats.

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Old 10-26-2008, 04:37 PM   #41
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Insight on the idea of VG's?
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Old 10-26-2008, 07:49 PM   #42
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OP: Nice writeup! Looks pretty good!

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now the question is does it really flow air in. Remember TSI do nothing
I beg to differ and have self documented temp tests to prove it. We took my friends supercharged car and went for a hard drive down the highway, full throttle 3000 - 7000rpm high load pull on a 90 degree ambient day. Under hood temps at the passenger side firewall where the A/C Bulkhead fittings were increased from 110 degrees to 136 degrees by 7000. Removed the signals and put in TSIs and the max temp was 118 degrees at the exact same position under numerous heavy heavy load conditions. Raising the headlamp doors lowered it another 3 degrees.
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Old 10-27-2008, 12:44 AM   #43
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Thanks Guys. No updates on the ducting. I did just pick up my new engine the other day and may wind up putting it in before the ducting is complete. I know, I Know, but i really miss this thing already.

944 good idea with the fiberglass covered cardboard ducting. Way easier to form than using sheet metal. I will have to find some empty soda boxes or something...
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Old 10-27-2008, 10:59 AM   #44
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I just bought a bunch of fiberglassing stuff yesterday. I still need a roller and wax but I got chop mat, resin with hardener and all the other goodies and I haven't hit my 50 dollar budget yet. Close though. I'm gonna try to do something with foam and then cardboard. I might try to do a "How to get started for less than 50 bucks" thread if I remember to take pics and write down my steps. But basically I'm teaching myself the basics and am going to make a write up from an amateur's point of view.

So far it looks like it takes time and that's about it. Aside from cutting the excess FG and wax or sprayable stuff, it doesn't take many special tools or skill. Just patience.
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Old 10-27-2008, 11:23 AM   #45
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 944obscene View Post
I just bought a bunch of fiberglassing stuff yesterday. I still need a roller and wax but I got chop mat, resin with hardener and all the other goodies and I haven't hit my 50 dollar budget yet. Close though. I'm gonna try to do something with foam and then cardboard. I might try to do a "How to get started for less than 50 bucks" thread if I remember to take pics and write down my steps. But basically I'm teaching myself the basics and am going to make a write up from an amateur's point of view.

So far it looks like it takes time and that's about it. Aside from cutting the excess FG and wax or sprayable stuff, it doesn't take many special tools or skill. Just patience.
FWIW I've done a good bit of fiberglassing. Probably 100 hours experience working and laying fiberglass. Granted most of it is working on boats.

You gotta use a certain powder on the foam if you plan to glass over it or the resin will react with the foam and melt it, ruining your mold. Also, if you use a wax you have to use the right stuff, and use it liberally. Might wanna pick up a book on it before you make a mess.

And I'd recommend using cloth as opposed to matt. Matt is hard to work and hard to bend, make corners, etc and still get it to lay down flat. And matt will break at corners. You'll never get it to lay right. Just use several layers of cloth. Don't use too much resin either. Common mistake. More resin does not add strength, more cloth does. You want just enough resin to make the layers of cloth stick together. Do 5-6 layers of cloth at once and you'll have a nice piece.
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Old 10-28-2008, 12:57 AM   #46
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Yeah, I've downloaded a couple PDF's on it, have watched a few videos and have a separate bookmark for fiberglassing with a few different links already placed in it. I'd lay cellophane over the foam or gloss it with a release agent before laying the resin on. The resin will make short work of whatever effort you put into your design. I invision what gasoline would do to Styrofoam. The cardboard wouldn't be a bad template to work off of. I'm going to try to make a duct this weekend. Its just too effing cold to do anything right now. The results would be f'd in the a over night.

I also have a respirator that I need new inserts for. I'm sure my sandblasting used those up last time. Aside from that, I got nitrile gloves, goggles and a crap load of Dremel stuff. I can't think of anything else I'll need. Any thing off the top of your head?
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Old 02-02-2009, 12:19 PM   #47
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Quote:
Originally Posted by elesjuan View Post
OP: Nice writeup! Looks pretty good!



I beg to differ and have self documented temp tests to prove it. We took my friends supercharged car and went for a hard drive down the highway, full throttle 3000 - 7000rpm high load pull on a 90 degree ambient day. Under hood temps at the passenger side firewall where the A/C Bulkhead fittings were increased from 110 degrees to 136 degrees by 7000. Removed the signals and put in TSIs and the max temp was 118 degrees at the exact same position under numerous heavy heavy load conditions. Raising the headlamp doors lowered it another 3 degrees.


I removed my front marker lights and installed aluminum screens. never really did any measuring but it's glad to hear that they might work.

you can see them here http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2609780
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Old 02-02-2009, 02:57 PM   #48
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Since this thread was revived this is the thought I had for this car and the one with the cooper scooper in the nose. What about just doing NACA cutouts? They are proven to work and won't disturb the already poor aerodynamics of our cars significantly. You wouldn't be inserting little ducts but cutting holes to the NACA specs for air intake.

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Old 02-02-2009, 03:17 PM   #49
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I'm not an aeronautical engineer, but I believe the NACA ducts are designed for use where the plane of the opening of the duct is close to perpendicular to the primary direction of airflow. Putting them on the bumper as illustrated would probably be a less than optimal application.
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Old 02-02-2009, 03:23 PM   #50
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naca ducts are designed to be on surfaces parallel to flow so they dont add to the frontal area but have good intake velocity. the opening there could be any shape.
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Old 02-02-2009, 03:43 PM   #51
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Well regardless of function they "look" good.
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Old 02-02-2009, 06:58 PM   #52
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Thanks Guys... Glad to see this is still getting some attention....
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Old 02-02-2009, 07:32 PM   #53
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Quote:
Originally Posted by poobs View Post
Well regardless of function they "look" good.
Mod for a purpose.
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Old 02-03-2009, 09:44 AM   #54
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MikeRiv87 View Post
Thanks Guys... Glad to see this is still getting some attention....

It had not even crossed my mind that the nose could be cut in an aesthetic way so this thread helps me.

I have a hole in my firewall to bring in cooler air for my intake. Now that I've installed a MS and removed the AFM I'm looking to try a cold side intake hopefully shorter and straighter than what I have now but don't want another hole in the firewall.

So what I am looking to do is bring cooler high pressure air near the TB.
If I can get around or thru the radiator support the nose vents should do.

I need to read thru these articles to decide on if/how I will vent the engine compartment.


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Hope the information helps somebody out
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Old 02-03-2009, 10:44 AM   #55
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Two holes in the firewall, fender vents placed directly in front of cowl opening and liners deleted, brake vents along with r-lip vents, some holes in the bumper, and an induction style hood with vents as well......
Never gets over 215 at the back of the head while beating on this car all day and no heater core or "Hyper" re-route.
Kind of like this......
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How-TO: DIY Ford Escort GT Grill Vents...-normal_rockin__de_bronze.jpg   How-TO: DIY Ford Escort GT Grill Vents...-normal_tire_through_fender.jpg  
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Old 02-03-2009, 10:47 AM   #56
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Which then becomes this.....
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Old 02-03-2009, 11:45 PM   #57
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That looks awesome.
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Old 02-04-2009, 03:48 AM   #58
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The holes idea I don't like so much.. aesthetics are a by-product, the main idea obviously is to attract as much air into the hole as possible and I feel one larger hole is far more effective than smaller ones which will have more net turbulance distrupting airflow into the openings as there is a larger net perimeter to the holes...
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Old 02-04-2009, 03:49 AM   #59
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That looks awesome.
amazing what a dremel and 45 minutes can do huh?
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