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Old 12-15-2007, 07:53 PM   #61
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i am building my pigtail right now. but i have a question, how come some of the pins for the db37 are differnt on page 1 compared to the megamanual? i assume its for our ignition system, is that why?
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Old 12-15-2007, 08:05 PM   #62
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Yes. Our ignition pinouts are a little different. You can clarify the ignition pinouts at http://diyautotune.com/tech_articles...azda_miata.htm
Follow those instructions exactly.
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Old 12-15-2007, 08:12 PM   #63
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ok cool, thanks alot, i saw we had wire from the db37 that were supposed to be for like the IAC stepper and they were going to other things on the car. just have to finish my harness now, hopefully will be up and running tomorow.

one more question. i am not running a variable tps right now. do i need to just set acell enrichment to 0 or anyting special, or do i just not calibrate the tps?

and mods, if i am cluttering the thread, feel free to delete my posts, i will start a new thread if needed.
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Old 12-15-2007, 08:18 PM   #64
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Set your AE to mapdot. Then set the threshold to 300 kpa. Then once you're ready to tune AE lower the threshold to a more appropriate level. Setting it to 300 will disable it and you will still be able to use AE without the TPS using mapdot later on.
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Old 12-21-2007, 09:59 PM   #65
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My car is running. Thanks for this thread... theres no way i would have tackled this project without all the knowledge and info posted in here.

Now time to tune!
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Old 12-21-2007, 10:48 PM   #66
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 240_to_miata_OWNER View Post
My car is running. ...
Now time to tune!
Bastard. I totally would run you over 'cept my car isn't running yet. :-(

Congrats!
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Old 12-24-2007, 11:46 PM   #67
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Default How to bypass the OEM ECU for a 99-00 alternator

Thought I'd note it here for posperity:
To wire up NAPA part number:
New Voltage Reg Napa online MPEVR38SB $15.29 "VR38SB"
Connector for VR above Napa online ECHVRC38 $12.64 (8.99?) "VRC38"
on a '00 miata:

Ground the case, I am planning to mount it near the radiator overflow bottle, on the frame "rail".
Hook the BLUE wire to (?)switched(?) "+12v" battery voltage
Hook the GREEN wire to the Grey/Red wire on the alternator, pin 1-O on the factory ECU.

I let line 1-T hang, I'm not really sure what it is, it seems to be measuring the voltage of one coil of the generator, before rectification. Not sure what that's good for, maybe you could get engine RPM out of it, or total altenator capacity.

Anyway, hooked it all up and everything works well enough. It seems to only charge to like 13.5-13.7, I think this is due to the Mopar part only putting out 580 mV, where I got better charging feeding ~980 mV. Much more than that and you're rapidly feeding 15, as much as 18V into the system.

Running fans and VICS off the MS is easy, getting the altenator running off this box means that the tach is the only thing keeping me (so far?!) from running totally stand alone.

Last edited by AbeFM; 12-24-2007 at 11:56 PM. Reason: wire color backwards. Ooops!
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Old 12-24-2007, 11:51 PM   #68
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What do you think it will take to just use Tach out on the MS with the stock Tach?
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Old 12-24-2007, 11:57 PM   #69
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Positively no idea. There's a tach out? Just an ECU pin? It doens't come to the DB-37 does it?
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Old 12-24-2007, 11:59 PM   #70
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Old 12-27-2007, 02:58 PM   #71
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Has anyone found a source for the Tyco connectors that doesn't require a minimum order?

onlinecomponents and masterdistributors seem to be the same place with different webpages (how else would they have the exact same number of all parts in stock?). Mouser and Digikey don't have the part, and Newark doesn't have it in stock.

I can buy two sets of components and still not meet the minimum order. Is there really a market if I try to sell that extra set?

also - anyone found a place that sells a variety pack of colored wire? It'd be nice to have color-coded wiring, but not if I have to buy a reel of each color...
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Old 12-27-2007, 03:04 PM   #72
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go to tycoelectronics.com. plug in the part numbers you want. and then click inventory/prices or something like that. should throw up a list of a few more vendors. but you gotta call and find out if they have it all, some only sell to people with accounts and whatnot.

use ebay or fry's or somethign for wires, sometimes you find good deals.
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Old 12-27-2007, 03:11 PM   #73
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It's not worth buying color codes wiring for your boomslang. Use a $0.25 roll of scotch tape and label the wires that matter to you. As for labeled wires for the DB37 harness, buy the $12 bundle from DIYautotune, it's great.
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Old 12-27-2007, 03:14 PM   #74
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What's the difference between the 'boomslang' and the db-37 harness? I guess I figured they were the same thing?

Not that I've yet found any reason to want to keep the OEM ECU in the loop. I guess the added weight keeps the car from blowing away on windy days.
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Old 12-27-2007, 03:17 PM   #75
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Yep, already have the $12 bundle for the DB37, just thinking about how to keep sane while wiring the boomslang.

I went through the tyco website as you suggested Braineack, the only one they listed for the 64P connector was Master.

It's no big deal, just wondering if anyone had tips, thanks!

(edit - Abe, I'm using the term boomslang to mean the harness that connects both the DB37 and the OEM computer to the OEM wiring harness, without splicing. I'm starting off with the OEM computer controlling some stuff, like A/C, cruise, and idle, but if I were eliminating the OEM computer, I'd still need a few of these connectors to make a plug'n'play connector to the OEM harness)
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Old 12-27-2007, 03:20 PM   #76
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Boomslang:


DB37 is the harness coming out of the MS. You tap the DB37 into the boomslang.
(Maybe we should watch how we say boomslang, they might get us on Copright enfringement.)

Patch harness from now on.
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Old 12-27-2007, 04:02 PM   #77
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thebeerbaron View Post
(edit - Abe, I'm using the term boomslang to mean the harness that connects both the DB37 and the OEM computer to the OEM wiring harness, without splicing. I'm starting off with the OEM computer controlling some stuff, like A/C, cruise, and idle, but if I were eliminating the OEM computer, I'd still need a few of these connectors to make a plug'n'play connector to the OEM harness)
Yeah - that's what I did. And since I was so sure I'd be making a second one after I got rid of or minimized the OEM stuff, I ordered two of everything, and that put me over the minimum order. Except for one freakin' connector, and I don't want to pay $10 shipping for a $0.84 part, so I guess I won't get a second one.

Idle, fans, and VICS I'm doing. I'm not sure what's involved in the AC. I think there's a switch it watches (though you could probably do that as an interrupt to the engaging circuit) and then you just turn it on. You might not need computer control for the AC at all (it's just a switch or two) but if you're really smart you have the MS disengage the AC at high load / low RPM so you can take off from a start easy, or raise target idle RPM when it's on.

But yeah, some new word is needed, trislang comes to mind for a three point harness like I made. And I can't wait to get to a bi-slang in the near future.

Also, a WB would be cool. Sigh.... It's in USPS's hands now.

Last edited by AbeFM; 12-27-2007 at 04:15 PM.
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Old 12-27-2007, 04:26 PM   #78
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Also: I bought way too many pins. I bought a bunch extra, not realizing how many I wouldn't use. Even if I'd left in VICS and the fans, it would only have been three extra. BTW, it's a great time/place to wire your fans together. There's not a lot of reason not to run both fans at once, and if you do it from the "back side" there's no weird high-current electrical considerations, you just happen to always turn them on at the same time.

But with things like gas tank pressure and EGR removed, I save a bazillion pins. If you're keeping that on for smog I could understand, but personally I'm of the opinion you swap in the OEM ECU for your smog test, get tested, take it back out.

Anyway, pics of my trislang:

Plugged into itself to check I didn't cross wires. See how VERY few slots are taken? I could have bought half the "required" pins and still had extras.


Almost done, this is with the MS wired in as well. Note the thick lines where I wanted LOTS of current (not needed I'm sure, but whatever. Enough to feed 14 ground pins * 1 amp/pin)


The nearly-finished MS connector - the plastic one has all kinds of room in it

Lastly:

This is the "ground bar" I used on the DB-37 to make sure current gets everywhere it needs to without having to rely on the internal structure of the top-secret PCB doing it. The red wire is the "signal ground". Note on the first pic how there's a wire wrapping around - that's to ensure the MS pins 1&2 are common to all the other grounds. Probably NOT needed, but how can I be Captain ---- without it?

And, even more lastly:

I found this worked really well for getting lots of wire onto a single pin in the OEM connector (yellow in my pic)
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Old 12-27-2007, 04:35 PM   #79
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cjernigan View Post
Boomslang:


DB37 is the harness coming out of the MS. You tap the DB37 into the boomslang.
(Maybe we should watch how we say boomslang, they might get us on Copright enfringement.)

Patch harness from now on.
maybe we should call it cjernislang
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Old 01-02-2008, 02:31 PM   #80
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Ok, I used alot of info from this thread and earlier inquiries and have the car squirting! I have to say the just before the holidays I had given it up as a lost cause. Finally solved a communication problem and she came alive. I am running the 2.2 version board , 1990 NA with Turbo and my own version of a harness which moves back to OEM with a switch. I set the constants and then switched it to MS and she continued to run. I am now going through the basic tuning process for the fuel and then will tackle spark control. Thanks to all the members for good information. I have a question regarding the removal of the AFM. Can that be done anytime after the fuel is working on MS and is all I have to do it trick the OEM ecu with a resistor or am I missing something? Thanks again!
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