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Old 05-10-2015, 06:29 AM   #1
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Default 15x9 +35 offset scraping on upper wishbone?

Greetings. I just started running 15x9 +35 offset wheels with 225/45 Rivals. One issue I am having, which is unexpected to me, is that at lock on either side of steering the front wheels, the inner edge of the rim is scraping against the upper wishbone - the side of the upper wishbone that faces the rear of the car.

I can see where it is hitting when I lift up the front of the car, and I can hear it scraping when driving in my driveway

I am interested in what the customary wisdom is on addressing it. Is it: (i) modification of the top and perhaps bottom wishbones to give a little more room; (ii) somehow limiting the travel of the steering mechanism; (iii) spacers; (iv) live with it/don't turn the steering wheel all the way.

I am not particularly excited about the last option because my wife occasionally drives this car.

I couldn't immediately find a thread on the issue. I'm hoping I'm missing something here.

Thanks.
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Old 05-10-2015, 07:53 AM   #2
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1. Live with it
2. Install thin spacers on the steering rack (steal a plastic cutting board from the kitchen), just retract the boots and get creative.
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Old 05-10-2015, 08:00 AM   #3
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Originally Posted by NiklasFalk View Post
1. Live with it
2. Install thin spacers on the steering rack (steal a plastic cutting board from the kitchen), just retract the boots and get creative.
Thank you. I love the sound of number 2, and have lots of plastic cutting boards in the kitchen ready to be cut up. I am looking forward to making such a modification. If anyone has thoughts as to the best way to do this, or better yet a thread on it, I would love to learn more. Thank you again.


EDIT: Everything I have seen thus far on line relates to increasing steering angle, not decreasing it. I suspect that there must be a way to decrease steering angle but have not determined yet precisely what must be done.

ANOTHER EDIT: OK, I have taken off the steering rack boot and I think I've got it. A "donut" around the rod between the inner tie rod and the rack, around the shaft coming out of the rack, on each side. If anyone has the thickness/width of the spacer that has worked for them I would appreciate it.

Last edited by sirfixalot; 05-10-2015 at 09:05 AM.
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Old 05-11-2015, 01:42 PM   #4
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Originally Posted by sirfixalot View Post
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If anyone has the thickness/width of the spacer that has worked for them I would appreciate it.
Find when it rubs on the ground, mark the steering wheel position, replicate the steering wheel position (back it off just enough to not rub) when the car is up in the air, then measure the gap in the steering rack and make spacers to fit.

Then tell everyone else what size. I might need these soon!
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Old 05-12-2015, 11:41 AM   #5
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Originally Posted by dcamp2 View Post
Find when it rubs on the ground, mark the steering wheel position, replicate the steering wheel position (back it off just enough to not rub) when the car is up in the air, then measure the gap in the steering rack and make spacers to fit.

Then tell everyone else what size. I might need these soon!

Doesn't control-arm to wheel clearance change with wheel position through travel? The UCA would arc through the wheel's barrel as the wheel moves upwards If i'm envisioning this correctly.

Going from weighted on the ground to on-stands would net different clearances.
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Old 05-12-2015, 01:32 PM   #6
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Originally Posted by Chooofoojoo View Post
Doesn't control-arm to wheel clearance change with wheel position through travel? The UCA would arc through the wheel's barrel as the wheel moves upwards If i'm envisioning this correctly.

Going from weighted on the ground to on-stands would net different clearances.


Right, but find the steering wheel position when it rubs (on the ground, going over bumps whatever), then replicate that steering wheel position when the car is in the air.


The steering rack won't change positions in the air or on the ground, so as long as the steering wheel position is correct, the spacers should be made to the right thickness.
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Old 05-12-2015, 01:36 PM   #7
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Ah. Re read your proposition. You want to space or limit the rack travel, not use a wheel spacer.

Would work. But aren't all the cool kids wanting more steering angle now a days?
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Old 05-12-2015, 05:37 PM   #8
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Don't go full lock/let that **** wear down so it has clearance! Jk buy some 3mm wheel hub spacers? There like 20$ for 4 I believe.
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Old 05-13-2015, 01:30 PM   #9
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Don't go full lock/let that **** wear down so it has clearance! Jk buy some 3mm wheel hub spacers? There like 20$ for 4 I believe.
This. Dont **** with the steering rack.
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Old 05-13-2015, 03:28 PM   #10
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This. Dont **** with the steering rack.
You are not really ******* with the steering rack by putting a shim/donut/spacer on the shaft coming out of the steering rack, as long as you put that shim on the "far" end - against the inner tie rod. While you are widening the turning radius, it will not otherwise have an impact on the steering rack.

I suspect that you could simply take a 3/8" wide section of coolant hose, use a worm drive coolant hose clamp or heavy duty zip tie and make this work at least temporarily - i.e., no need to disconnect the tie rods to limit the steering travel. This becomes apparent after you pull away a steering rack boot and stare at it for 5 seconds. I will work on it over the weekend and hopefully get a good measurement.
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Old 05-13-2015, 03:45 PM   #11
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yep mine scrape.. just stay away from full lock.
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Old 05-13-2015, 05:06 PM   #12
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yep mine scrape.. just stay away from full lock.
You ever worry about going full lock to save a spin on track? I know I've hit full lock a few times on track- if the wheel hit a control arm in one of those situations, I'm guessing it would be bad.
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Old 05-13-2015, 05:56 PM   #13
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You ever worry about going full lock to save a spin on track? I know I've hit full lock a few times on track- if the wheel hit a control arm in one of those situations, I'm guessing it would be bad.
steel is stronger than aluminum. it messes up the wheel, but i'm not worried about it messing up the control arm. if i'm spinning i'm more worried about staying away from things, like walls.
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Old 05-14-2015, 11:07 AM   #14
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steel is stronger than aluminum. it messes up the wheel, but i'm not worried about it messing up the control arm. if i'm spinning i'm more worried about staying away from things, like walls.
Right, but could it rub hard enough to stop the wheel? and wouldn't damaging the wheel be a bad thing?
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Old 05-14-2015, 11:35 AM   #15
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have you tried a 3mm spacer yet? I run them on my 15x9's, but I haven't gone full lock to test, rarely a need to.
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Old 05-14-2015, 07:55 PM   #16
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Run an MSM rack which has a more limited steering angle range than all others for this very reason. -wheel/tire clearance. If you have an NA, you'll need to switch to the NB subframe.
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Old 05-15-2015, 11:18 AM   #17
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Run an MSM rack which has a more limited steering angle range than all others for this very reason. -wheel/tire clearance. If you have an NA, you'll need to switch to the NB subframe.


That seems like significantly more work than making some spacers and installing them with the rack in place.
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Old 05-15-2015, 11:26 AM   #18
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That seems like significantly more work than making some spacers and installing them with the rack in place.
If the OP's car is an NA, sure. If it's an NB, then I disagree. A used rack could be $50 and involves no fabrication. It's 100% OEM drop-in "easy". -different strokes for different folks. (shrug)
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Old 05-16-2015, 08:07 AM   #19
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If the OP's car is an NA, sure. If it's an NB, then I disagree. A used rack could be $50 and involves no fabrication. It's 100% OEM drop-in "easy". -different strokes for different folks. (shrug)
My car is an NB1. Installing a couple spacers by way of wrapping and tying plastic rings around the rack where the rack attaches to the inner tie rod, will be much easier than replacing the rack, not to mention less expensive and with no need to go through the trouble of sourcing it. That said, installation of a rack that addresses this issue without a kluge fix would be more elegant.
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Old 05-17-2015, 01:11 PM   #20
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I have the same setup where the wheels touch the control arm and the tires rub on the Racing Beats sway bar. I installed 5mm spacers and they still hit the control arm but the tire rub on the sway bar is gone.

If you get spacers make sure you get hubcentric. This is the exact ones I got: 2 5mm Hubcentric Wheel Spacers 4x100 54 1mm Hub Fits Toyota Mazda Scion | eBay
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