Oh fuck I just ordered the ART studs. They'd better ship them... I need them naow..
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Nope ART is backordered. Ordering ARP. |
Weird. Must just be the 1.8 ones. I got mine in like a week.
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Originally Posted by kotomile
(Post 736360)
Weird. Must just be the 1.8 ones. I got mine in like a week.
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For what it is worth...very odd.
I ordered two sets of 1994-2005 rear studs from Summit. Same order, same part number, just quantity of "2". Both arrived with the same part # and packaging. One set has bullet-shaped "speed tips", the other set has rounded-off square tips. They otherwise appear to be exactly the same. http://www.miata.tv/post/ARP_100-7720_sm.jpg http://www.miata.tv/post/ARP_Tips_sm.jpg |
are you sure they are the same. The thread and pitch look different on that photo
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Yes, the threads and pitch are the same. I threaded a lug nut onto each.
I called ARP. They couldn't tell me which one is the newer version, but they did suggest that it is likely that one design superseded the other, perhaps due to a tooling change. I'm going to check the dates on the back of the package next time I have them in my hands. For what it is worth, the old ARP studs I have are the squared-off type. |
The ARP studs I had on my CRX years ago were the squared-off type, FWIW.
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For the rear wheel studs, were you able to hammer them out after removing the calipers only or was it much more involved? Thanks.
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I would think the rounded ends are the newer version. As an ex-machinist, they're "harder" to make, but only for the actual CNC machine. Hardware is pumped out fairly quickly, because of they're inherint high quantity. One lathe does all the work. Turns it to size, threads it, knurls it, "V" shaped chamfer on the end to look like this: \_/, then cuts it off in the middle of that groove, leaving a chamfer on either end. Once it falls off, the machine feeds more bar stock forward and starts over again. Depending on the machine, they'll usually have a couple feet of bar stock sticking through the chuck, and out the back of the machine.
Kind of like this, although the simpler (aka less quantity) machines usually don't rotate the part, they rotate the tools: Anyways, my point is only some of the newer CNC machines are capable of turning a spherical surface like that, so my guess is that those are the newer ones, with the machinist showing off a bit, since it's fairly unnecessary. |
Good analysis there, Curly.
FWIW, if anyone's interested in the ART studs, Karl is on vacation until 1 July. Just got back to me about rear studs for mine. |
Originally Posted by IHI
(Post 735866)
The rule for steel bolts/nuts:
You should get the diameter of the stud as a length for the thread. For aluminium this is 1,5x the diameter. That gives maximum strength. This is standard engineering practice. Any more engagement isn't going to buy you more strength, just more time to change tires. |
Originally Posted by vehicular
(Post 745127)
This is standard engineering practice. Any more engagement isn't going to buy you more strength, just more time to change tires.
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Originally Posted by kotomile
(Post 739545)
Good analysis there, Curly.
FWIW, if anyone's interested in the ART studs, Karl is on vacation until 1 July. Just got back to me about rear studs for mine. |
https://appliedracingtechnology.ipower.com/products.php
this guy has some really good and affordable studs. alot of spec miata guys use them |
After owning a few different studs and nuts, get the 949s. I also recomend burled Camaro studs from Jeg's. They're black too, like my heart.
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