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6UL wheels still cracking...

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Old 09-16-2019, 09:21 AM
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Originally Posted by z31maniac
Berrylium is the true baller metal.

Pffft, keep your Beryllium wheels to yourself, peasant.
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Old 09-16-2019, 09:59 AM
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Originally Posted by Satisaii
Tire Rack article on checking your wheels for track use.

https://m.tirerack.com/tires/tiretec...jsp?techid=110
Is that a picture of a 6ul???
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Old 09-16-2019, 10:57 AM
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Originally Posted by Erat
Is that a picture of a 6ul???
Don't believe so, the 6ul don't have such a well defined chamfer to the edges of the spokes.
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Old 09-16-2019, 11:02 AM
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I don't think anyone is arguing in good faith that aluminum wheels should never fail, at least not after you show them an Sn diagram for aluminum. The issue is that the endurance limit of the 6UL in particular seems to be much less than expected, and much less than competitor options which are similarly light and inexpensive.
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Old 09-16-2019, 11:30 AM
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Originally Posted by Morello
I don't think anyone is arguing in good faith that aluminum wheels should never fail, at least not after you show them an Sn diagram for aluminum. The issue is that the endurance limit of the 6UL in particular seems to be much less than expected, and much less than competitor options which are similarly light and inexpensive.
Winner winner, chicken dinner.
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Old 09-16-2019, 12:48 PM
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Originally Posted by Schroedinger
I have no dog in this fight, but there is a lot of trash engineering speculation going on in this thread.

We keep talking about “aluminum”, but there are lots of different aluminum alloys, and we have no idea which alloy these wheels are. I would speculate that they are 6061, but there are even different variations of 6061. The mechanical properties of the different alloys vary dramatically.

Aluminum doesn’t have less “elasticity” than steel. It has a lower elastic modulus, which means that a similar size/shape object will be less stiff if it is made from aluminum.

The failures being discussed are fatigue failures, not static failures. This makes things like elastic modulus almost irrelevant.

There are two steps to fatigue failure, crack formation and crack propagation. Aluminum is more notch sensitive than steel, meaning that a small scratch or defect can generate a fatigue fracture more easily. Unless there’s a sharp step or corner designed into the wheel where the cracks are starting, there is probably not a design defect per se. The recommendation to inspect wheels frequently is good advice.

The most important characteristic with regard to fatigue is how cracks propagate through the crystal lattice of the metal. As Sav pointed out, all aluminum alloys are inferior to steel in this regard, because cracks propagate more easily. Steel has a way of partially “healing” these cracks, where aluminum does not. Therefore steel has a finite fatigue limit, where aluminum does not.

https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fatigue_limit

None of this is unique to 6UL’s, every manufacturer has to wrestle with these inherent properties and design accordingly. The “fix all” for these problems is to make the heaviest smoothest wheels possible, which none of us would probably buy.

Small differences in wheel design can make big differences in stresses. For instance, a 15x9 wheel is going to apply a lot more stress to the spokes than a 15x8 wheel because the inside edge of the barrel is a cantilever, and the stress on the spokes goes up exponentially with the length of the cantilever.

Manufacturing methods play a critical role in fatigue properties. Good wheels are forged or cold formed because it work hardens them, which basically means that the crystal lattice gets all tangled up and the material gets stiffer. If the work hardening is not evenly distributed then the stresses won’t be properly distributed either, which could lead to point stresses and crack initiation. I am in no way implying that there is an obvious issue with 6UL’s, but I would guess that there are substantial differences in how different wheels are made, and that differences here could be important to fatigue life. OEM auto manufacturers have teams of PhD’s that do things like forging and mold flow analysis.
6061? You realize 6ULs are cast wheels, right? 6061 is a wrought alloy. Most cast wheels these days will be A356 (certainly anything out of china (6UL))

Last edited by Dietcoke; 09-16-2019 at 12:58 PM.
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Old 09-16-2019, 01:05 PM
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Originally Posted by Dietcoke
6061? You realize 6ULs are cast wheels, right? 6061 is a wrought alloy. Most cast wheels these days will be A356 (certainly anything out of china (6UL))
I have no idea, hence the term "speculate" in my post. I'm not a wheel engineer. They don't explicitly say the alloy on their website. After giving it a quick read, they don't explicitly say whether they are cast or forged either.

How Strong Is Your Wheel

The point of my post was not to defend or indict 949. There seems to be some practical experience that indicates there's an issue here. I'm only pointing out that half-assed "engineering" explanations don't really add to the discussion. If someone wants to put forth theories on WHY the wheels are breaking, they need to show their work.
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Old 09-16-2019, 01:09 PM
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Originally Posted by Schroedinger
I have no idea, hence the term "speculate". They don't explicitly say the alloy on their website. After giving it a quick read, they don't explicitly say whether they are cast or forged either.

How Strong Is Your Wheel
Yeah, let me spoil that for you - they are cast.
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Old 09-16-2019, 03:05 PM
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Hey guys i'm gonna know a thing and be a gigantic douche about it.
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Old 09-16-2019, 04:07 PM
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Have you guys tried flex seal?
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Old 09-16-2019, 04:28 PM
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Originally Posted by Full_Tilt_Boogie
Have you guys tried flex seal?
yeah it worked great even stopped the cracks from spreading
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Old 09-16-2019, 04:51 PM
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I have an entire boat made from 6UL's
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Old 09-16-2019, 04:54 PM
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Could not find an image for that and i'm too lazy to create it.

So instead of a boat made from 6ULs, have a boat with 6ULs.

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Old 09-16-2019, 05:43 PM
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you said boat, not barge
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Old 09-16-2019, 06:17 PM
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Originally Posted by concealer404
Hey guys i'm gonna know a thing and be a gigantic douche about it.
You're right, I should be more like the other guy and preach ignorance and whatever i copied from wikipedia.
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Old 09-16-2019, 06:43 PM
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Originally Posted by Dietcoke
You're right, I should be more like the other guy and preach ignorance and whatever i copied from wikipedia.
I think you might already be doing that?

Originally Posted by Dietcoke
I'm in the opposite camp as curly. Add boost and fuel, remove timing. Let the boost make the power, timing is what makes things hot, raises EGT and cracks pistons.
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Old 09-16-2019, 06:48 PM
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Originally Posted by Dietcoke
You're right, I should be more like the other guy and preach ignorance and whatever i copied from wikipedia.
I'm just happy my initial neg cats lead to more.
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Old 09-16-2019, 06:51 PM
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Originally Posted by Dietcoke
You're right, I should be more like the other guy and preach ignorance and whatever i copied from wikipedia.
I don't think that's at all what i said, nor related to what i said.

But you're still doing it.
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Old 09-16-2019, 07:00 PM
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Originally Posted by Full_Tilt_Boogie
Have you guys tried flex seal?
It's actually holding up great on the guest room bathroom, toilet tank that cracked. We rarely have visitors so I'm being a cheap *** about replacing the cheap toilet.
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Old 09-16-2019, 07:20 PM
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Originally Posted by afm
I think you might already be doing that?
Clearly you've never owned, built, or tuned an actual fast boosted car before
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