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Anyone over 300whp using RE71R?

 
Old 04-08-2019, 08:00 AM
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Originally Posted by thumpetto007 View Post
I understand that people on this website really like to band wagon, and I am aware you are just making a joke for a nice pat on the back... but I'm going to comment anyways.

I shift pretty fast. Its why I broke stuff...miata roadster shift bushing and side shifter inserts, shift linkage set screw came loose, every single FM clutch I tried slipped during reengagement with 130whp...etc. Vlad has been in car during 1-3 chirping, I cant remember if I did a 4th gear chirp with him in the car. IIRC we had looked at the shift times, and they were around 1 tenth clutch in clutch out.

I mean, I can forward you the email Inertia Labs sent me explaining how the seal is not stainless, and wasn't designed to withstand inclement weather or the road salt that comes with it. (stainless seal is very expensive, but can be added at your cost during a rebuild) Emilio also confirmed this. Not sure if you read the PSA thread I made.

Giken isn't a locking diff. I thought it was. That's why I was pissed when I would still get stuck lifting a wheel on my own driveway. I'll be selling the full diff combo including puddy mod hardware and delrin diff mounts if you'd like to see what happens first hand.

If you have never lived in southern utah, it's kind of hard to know what cars have to endure. It can hail literally any time of year (I've lived at 6000 and 8000ft) Have a freeze thaw cycle any time of year (at 8000ft) its a high desert climate where a steady 30mph wind is commonplace, making dust and debris a real issue (impossible to keep a clean car for more than 1 day) roads are in poor condition (and are salted usually november to april), not as bad as Michigan roads,but in my 12 mile daily commute, there are more than 10 patched potholes that still are huge divets. There is actually a city council meeting next week to try and improve our local roads, since motorcyclists have died from hitting potholes. Because of frequent flooding, there are ~6inch deep channels down EVERY street, even normal cars, and vans scrape their bumpers going in and out of entryways. So, a combination of salt, dust, low humidity, and severe suspension travel multiple times per day, yeah, a RACE shock doesnt stand a chance. Hence why I've had to rebuild Xidas TWICE.
I mean sure you can chirp 200tw tires in a 130hp car if it's like... 30 degrees outside. In the conditions they're meant to be used in? Nah. Never happened.

Also interesting that you stated you could not get heat in the RE71s, as they are literally the fastest-warming-up tires in the 200tw field, about on par with the Rivals. This is why autocrossers love them, because they get hot and work in 20 second autocross runs.

You can't live in this weird twilight zone when you drive like a maniac (Self-proclaimed!) then simultaneously say you can't get RE71s up to temp. Your stupid human shifting tricks never happened unless it was snowing at the time. 18psi says your car couldn't even scratch 2nd.
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Old 04-08-2019, 08:24 AM
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I think I have some more tuning to do. I'm using detcan to tune my timing, no knocking yet but I'm only running 10* total at 240kpa. My compression is 8.6:1 and I'm on 94 octane. I pumped it up to 20psi on the weekend, and with my old worn *** rt615k in 40* weather I am getting some wheel spin in 3rd from a roll depending on surface and no possibility of wheel spin in 4th. Keep in mind this is with a 5 speed, 6 speed is in the garage and hasn't been installed yet.
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Old 04-08-2019, 08:48 AM
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Originally Posted by matrussell122 View Post
You could do boost by gear and tune turn it up in each gear until you get wheel spin then back it down just a touch.


Disclaimer: I haven't ever tried boost by gear I just see some benefit to it.
Best way to boost by gear and keep throttle control of boost
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Old 04-09-2019, 03:45 AM
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Originally Posted by thumpetto007 View Post
I understand that people on this website really like to band wagon, and I am aware you are just making a joke for a nice pat on the back... but I'm going to comment anyways.

I shift pretty fast. Its why I broke stuff...miata roadster shift bushing and side shifter inserts, shift linkage set screw came loose, every single FM clutch I tried slipped during reengagement with 130whp...etc. Vlad has been in car during 1-3 chirping, I cant remember if I did a 4th gear chirp with him in the car. IIRC we had looked at the shift times, and they were around 1 tenth clutch in clutch out.

I mean, I can forward you the email Inertia Labs sent me explaining how the seal is not stainless, and wasn't designed to withstand inclement weather or the road salt that comes with it. (stainless seal is very expensive, but can be added at your cost during a rebuild) Emilio also confirmed this. Not sure if you read the PSA thread I made.

Giken isn't a locking diff. I thought it was. That's why I was pissed when I would still get stuck lifting a wheel on my own driveway. I'll be selling the full diff combo including puddy mod hardware and delrin diff mounts if you'd like to see what happens first hand.

If you have never lived in southern utah, it's kind of hard to know what cars have to endure. It can hail literally any time of year (I've lived at 6000 and 8000ft) Have a freeze thaw cycle any time of year (at 8000ft) its a high desert climate where a steady 30mph wind is commonplace, making dust and debris a real issue (impossible to keep a clean car for more than 1 day) roads are in poor condition (and are salted usually november to april), not as bad as Michigan roads,but in my 12 mile daily commute, there are more than 10 patched potholes that still are huge divets. There is actually a city council meeting next week to try and improve our local roads, since motorcyclists have died from hitting potholes. Because of frequent flooding, there are ~6inch deep channels down EVERY street, even normal cars, and vans scrape their bumpers going in and out of entryways. So, a combination of salt, dust, low humidity, and severe suspension travel multiple times per day, yeah, a RACE shock doesnt stand a chance. Hence why I've had to rebuild Xidas TWICE.
chirping gears every shift just means your flywheel and clutch assembly is too heavy, it has nothing to do with how fast you shift. I can powershift my ls powered exocet and not chirp the tires. TL : DR, you're doing it wrong.
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Old 04-09-2019, 10:27 AM
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Originally Posted by concealer404 View Post
So will pretty much any 200tw 205 at 300hp if your car isn't set up like a bag of dicks.
Yep, pretty much this.

I run a 340tw 205 at more than 300, third is the first useable gear. Summertime that is.
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Old 04-09-2019, 10:50 AM
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I've successfully run 205 cross-section tires on 8" wheels for pretty much the entire street-driving life of my L.E. (currently I have RE-71Rs but previous tires have all been 200tw cheaters as well). Going by theory, there should be no straight-line traction benefit for wide vs. narrow tires of the same compound and construction. In fact, for acceleration and braking, it's arguable that the long and narrow tire patch of a narrow tire should be beneficial compared to the shorter & wider patch of a meatier size. To answer the OP's question, you should be fine on the tires you've ordered (although they will be louder than you might like).
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Old 04-09-2019, 12:40 PM
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Originally Posted by DeerHunter View Post
Going by theory, there should be no straight-line traction benefit for wide vs. narrow tires of the same compound and construction. In fact, for acceleration and braking, it's arguable that the long and narrow tire patch of a narrow tire should be beneficial compared to the shorter & wider patch of a meatier size.
X275 and Radial vs The World would like a word with you.
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Originally Posted by codrus View Post
Basically I've come over to the camp of "If something is a reliability problem on the track, just ask Andrew and do what he says".
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Old 04-09-2019, 12:44 PM
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I think he used "beneficial" when he should have used "more important."
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Old 04-09-2019, 01:26 PM
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Originally Posted by Savington View Post
X275 and Radial vs The World would like a word with you.
If I was drag racing, I would probably make different choices. Certainly, drag radials are constructed differently and are run at lower tire pressures. All I can say is that I've successfully put down 300-odd lb-ft of torque through 205-section width tires for close to a decade now. Granted, traction was easier to attain when I was running the longer-legged Quaife gearset but the 6-speed just moves the full-traction gear up one (from 2nd to 3rd). Other than keeping running costs lower, the narrower tires are also more street-friendly, exhibiting almost none of the tramlining and other bad habits inherent to wider tires on a light car. When I was tracking my car and drove to an event on 225 R-comps, I did have more usable straight-line traction but I attribute it to the compound and not increased section width.
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Old 04-09-2019, 03:23 PM
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A car with aggressive rear camber won't hook up in a straight line versus a car with Square contact patches on the ground back there, so it's really important to take all of this anecdotal talk with a grain of salt. there's going to be a big difference between somebody running 1.8 degrees of camber in the back and somebody running 3.2 degrees of camber in the back. Life is a series of trade-offs.
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Old 04-09-2019, 06:03 PM
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Someone screeching tires every shift isn't going to last on a roadcourse anyway so why have any camber?

If you screech a tire upshifting or downshifting....YOU ARE DOING IT WRONG......
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Old 04-09-2019, 07:22 PM
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Originally Posted by DeerHunter View Post
words
I am teasing you because wider tires absolutely do make a difference, despite what your high school AP Physics teacher told you. The nuances of tire friction physics is why auto manufacturers and tire companies employ adults with masters degrees and doctorates, not high school seniors.
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Originally Posted by codrus View Post
Basically I've come over to the camp of "If something is a reliability problem on the track, just ask Andrew and do what he says".
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Old 04-09-2019, 07:34 PM
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Plus they look more better. Dat steamroller doe
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Old 04-09-2019, 07:46 PM
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Originally Posted by Savington View Post
words

I'm gonna tease because he didn't say that wider tires don't make a difference. Nobody did. <3 <3 <3 <3 <3

I know due to current political climate everything is read as the most extreme possible permutation of what was written, even if it means reading something that wasn't. And then responding as such. But literally... he just plain old didn't say that.
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Old 04-09-2019, 07:56 PM
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Originally Posted by DeerHunter View Post
Going by theory, there should be no straight-line traction benefit for wide vs. narrow tires of the same compound and construction.
Iono Ben. That's what this here looks like.
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Old 04-09-2019, 08:11 PM
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Originally Posted by concealer404 View Post
I'm gonna tease because he didn't say that wider tires don't make a difference. Nobody did. <3 <3 <3 <3 <3

I know due to current political climate everything is read as the most extreme possible permutation of what was written, even if it means reading something that wasn't. And then responding as such. But literally... he just plain old didn't say that.
...yeah, he did.

Originally Posted by DeerHunter View Post
there should be no straight-line traction benefit for wide vs. narrow tires of the same compound and construction.
In fact, he said it in so many words, and so eloquently (as Steven always does), that I was even able to poke specific fun at the place where he learned that specific misconception (entry level physics courses).

Go have your ophthalmologist jump on the rocker panel of your eyes, maybe?
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Originally Posted by codrus View Post
Basically I've come over to the camp of "If something is a reliability problem on the track, just ask Andrew and do what he says".
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Old 04-09-2019, 08:25 PM
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****** hell my jounced-upon eyes kept being drawn to the sentence after that.

I will now retreat to my original statement of "if your car doesn't hook a 200tw 205 at 300hp, your car or driving sucks."
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Old 04-09-2019, 08:28 PM
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Old 04-09-2019, 11:05 PM
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Originally Posted by 1RMDave View Post
I think I have some more tuning to do. I'm using detcan to tune my timing, no knocking yet but I'm only running 10* total at 240kpa. My compression is 8.6:1 and I'm on 94 octane. I pumped it up to 20psi on the weekend, and with my old worn *** rt615k in 40* weather I am getting some wheel spin in 3rd from a roll depending on surface and no possibility of wheel spin in 4th. Keep in mind this is with a 5 speed, 6 speed is in the garage and hasn't been installed yet.
For sure you should be able to get to the 15* range pretty easily. I am running 8.5 wisecos on 93 octane and dont get knock @230kpa with 16* total 12* ramping to 16-17* up top. This with a small GT2560R thats blowing hot air by that time as well. My turbo makes all its steam in the 3700-6000rpm range where it will hold 18-19psi. I didnt use detcans, just using the stock knock sensor with the Hydra amplifying the signal. Plugs always look really good, no knock retard to speak of, knock ramp looks good too.

I just got done driving around tonight 71* today and my car will spin 3rd but its not the kind of spin that just rolls to redline, you can stay in it and itll spin but youre still getting forward motion, once I pass 5500rpm it starts hooking after the tq peak.
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Old 04-10-2019, 08:04 AM
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Originally Posted by andyfloyd View Post
For sure you should be able to get to the 15* range pretty easily. I am running 8.5 wisecos on 93 octane and dont get knock @230kpa with 16* total 12* ramping to 16-17* up top. This with a small GT2560R thats blowing hot air by that time as well. My turbo makes all its steam in the 3700-6000rpm range where it will hold 18-19psi. I didnt use detcans, just using the stock knock sensor with the Hydra amplifying the signal. Plugs always look really good, no knock retard to speak of, knock ramp looks good too.

I just got done driving around tonight 71* today and my car will spin 3rd but its not the kind of spin that just rolls to redline, you can stay in it and itll spin but youre still getting forward motion, once I pass 5500rpm it starts hooking after the tq peak.
Good to hear! I've been going through all the old timing maps posted on here, not to copy them but just to see what kinda timing people are running and noting the octane/compression/AIT/turbo used. I am going to slowly increase it but I am expecting to get it up around 15* total like you said, I know that will make a massive difference in power. After that I am going to turn on the water injection and do another map, maybe I'll see 20* total with it on, I have no idea. I just wanted a map with and without water injection so I have a fall back if the system develops a problem. My 3rd gear reacts similarly to yours as it sits now.

Enjoying the conversation on tire size & compound haha. After going through this thread I'm pretty confident I'll be happy with the re71r this year, I don't drag race and the only track time I get is once a month doing open laps at the local track which is only 1.5 miles long with a pretty short straight. I'm not concerned about tire noise, that never bothers me.
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