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sandblasted 6UL Failure - need replacements

Old 10-03-2013, 08:20 AM
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Default sandblasted 6UL Failure - need replacements

I noticed yesterday that the two first-gen 6ULs I had sandblasted and painted a couple years ago are failing. One has a broken spoke, and both have a few small cracks forming all over the place. The two I didn't sandblast look fine.

So, if this happened to you, what would you do?

-Hunt for 2 1st-gen 6ULs
-2 new 6ULs
-4 new 6ULs
-4 new wheels of some other variety, if so, which wheels?

I have been really happy with the 6ULs except for the finish, which starting chipping a year or so after I got them. That's why I sandblasted them (don't sandblast your 6ULs, it appears to cause failure).

I'll probably stick with 8" width, since I only ever put street tires on the car and autocross, but if I don't have to do any rolling and it's not much more money I could probably be convinced to to go 9"

Sorry if this info is all out there, I haven't been paying much attention to the wheel selection since I bought my 6ULs 5 years ago.
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Old 10-03-2013, 09:10 AM
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1gen 6UL seems to need constant monitoring for cracks. Mine have not shown any yet (I have not found any, no Xrays), but for racing friends around me the failure rate is quite high.
Later generations seems to be much better, but wheels are consumables in racing (however, some last much longer than others, and when you learn which one to have they are replaced by a new experimental version).
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Old 10-03-2013, 09:30 AM
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Make sure you send Emilio an e-mail about this. At the very least its probably good information for him and maybe he will be super nice and give you a discount on a new set!

The 1st gen 6ULs aren't as strong as the 2nd/3rd gen. Emilio posted/hinted about this on his website.

Service Life
All aluminum race wheels have a finite service life. It is important to check the wheels for cracks before every competition or track day. Gen 1 6UL's (without "6UL" cast into face), may crack after several years of track use with race compound tires and kerb hits. If you find cracks in any aluminum race wheel, it must be removed from service and destroyed. We recommend drilling a large hole in the outer rim to make sure no one else uses a cracked wheel. Failure to regularly inspect your wheels may result injury or death.
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Old 10-03-2013, 09:33 AM
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Yeah, these wheels are old enough and since I sandblasted them, I don't expect any sympathy from Emilio. I'll send him a note for his info, though.

So it sounds like we have two votes against 2 replacement first-gen 6ULs

Oh, these wheels have never seen a track, but they have done a bunch of autocrosses and probably 35k street miles.
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Old 10-03-2013, 09:48 AM
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I just emailed Emilio, and I'll try to post a picture or two here this afternoon showing the damage. It looks like 15x8s in Nickel are sold out everywhere, which is annoying because that's sort of the direction I'm leaning right now.
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Old 10-03-2013, 09:52 AM
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Sandblasting and sanding creates stress risers. You should never use these processes on metal pieces that are highly stressed.

Personally, I'd get new 6UL's. Seems they've served you well. Dunno' about the 9" fitment without rolling. Curious myself so sub'd.
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Old 10-03-2013, 09:56 AM
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Yeah, and I think I knew the risks of sandblasting when I did it, but somehow I had already committed before I realized them, so I went ahead with it anyway.
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Old 10-03-2013, 10:50 AM
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Wheels are wear items. :P

The NAs require a front and rear fender roll with x9s. If you have lowered the car, I would imagine you'd have to roll at least the fronts. It's a big wheel for such a small car. I love mine.
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Old 10-03-2013, 11:11 AM
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Originally Posted by skidude View Post
So, if this happened to you, what would you do?

-Hunt for 2 1st-gen 6ULs
-2 new 6ULs
-4 new 6ULs
-4 new wheels of some other variety, if so, which wheels?
Four new 8" 6UL's. You can use your two good wheels as spares/backups.
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Old 10-03-2013, 11:39 AM
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Originally Posted by Double O 86 View Post
Four new 8" 6UL's. You can use your two good wheels as spares/backups.
What this guy said.

Unless you are in a hurry and can't find a set in the finish you like from 949, TSE, Goodwin, or Phil's. Then you can consider some other 15x8" options.
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Old 10-03-2013, 12:09 PM
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Sort of related, sorry for thread jacking.

Is there a guide for identifying Gen1 vs Gen2 vs Gen3. I know about the above mentioned "6ul" cast into the face. Do the center cap designs also designate the different generations? Hex caps vs flatter bubble caps, vs ______?
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Old 10-03-2013, 12:16 PM
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Originally Posted by doward View Post
Sort of related, sorry for thread jacking.

Is there a guide for identifying Gen1 vs Gen2 vs Gen3. I know about the above mentioned "6ul" cast into the face. Do the center cap designs also designate the different generations? Hex caps vs flatter bubble caps, vs ______?
Center caps are not attached to the wheels, I wouldn't trust that to identify the wheels.

Otherwise, I don't know how to identify Gen3 wheels.
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Old 10-03-2013, 12:25 PM
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Originally Posted by Track View Post
Center caps are not attached to the wheels, I wouldn't trust that to identify the wheels.

Otherwise, I don't know how to identify Gen3 wheels.
"949 Racing" is smaller test than Gen 2. Gen 3 text is roughly 12pt and looks italicized, Gen 2 is ~18pt and block lettering.
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Old 10-03-2013, 12:54 PM
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Ok, so I want 15x8 6ULs in Nickel. They appear to be sold out everywhere, can anybody prove me wrong? I have an autocross in a week and a half I'd like to attend, but not on broken wheels!
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Old 10-03-2013, 01:30 PM
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Get black then, this is what I did for my wet tires when Nickel we're BO
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Old 10-03-2013, 01:31 PM
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Originally Posted by doward View Post
Sort of related, sorry for thread jacking.

Is there a guide for identifying Gen1 vs Gen2 vs Gen3. I know about the above mentioned "6ul" cast into the face. Do the center cap designs also designate the different generations? Hex caps vs flatter bubble caps, vs ______?
It's like you have never been to 949's website

Wheel Tech - 949Racing.com

TL;DR
  • Gen1: Does not have "6UL" cast in the face, 59.1 or 54.1mm hub bore
  • Gen2: Has "6UL" cast in the face, 67.1mm hub bore
  • Gen3: Looks like Gen2 but has "VIA" stamp near the valve hole, 67.1mm hub bore
I'll go snap a pic of the VIA stamp tonight if that's worth anything to you.
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Old 10-03-2013, 02:23 PM
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Originally Posted by skidude View Post
Ok, so I want 15x8 6ULs in Nickel. They appear to be sold out everywhere, can anybody prove me wrong? I have an autocross in a week and a half I'd like to attend, but not on broken wheels!
You checked with all four of the vendors I listed above?
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Old 10-03-2013, 02:59 PM
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Originally Posted by Scrappy Jack View Post
What this guy said.

Unless you are in a hurry and can't find a set in the finish you like from 949, TSE, Goodwin, or Phil's. Then you can consider some other 15x8" options.
Yes, all four of those places seem to be out of nickel 15x8s. I caved and bought silver 5 years ago because of this, and I don't want to do it again. I've always wished for nickels...
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Old 10-03-2013, 03:05 PM
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I have a set of Nickel 15x9 6uls I will sell... of course they were spraybombed black...

So what I am saying is my offer is of no use to you.
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Old 10-03-2013, 03:10 PM
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Sandblast and paint them...
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