Square wheels, different tires
#1
Square wheels, different tires
Would this be weird?
15x8 et0 on all 4
225/45 R15 in the back
205/50 R15 in the front
Currently a driftcar (1996 1.8) with suspension and angle mods. Stock power. Stock wheels!! My stock wheels are 14x6.25 with 185/60 R14. Call me an idiot but I have 30mm spacers in the front so the tires won't hit the stabilizer or control arm on full lock. Time for a change heh?
Now I don't know anyone that has 4x100 wheels with low offset for me to try on so I would have no idea if they will clear or not. But just asking to debate whether it would be weird or even do anything useful if I would just swap to a little skinnier tire if they end up not clearing by a hair. I'm getting new wheels so no more spacers.
Experiences? lmk
15x8 et0 on all 4
225/45 R15 in the back
205/50 R15 in the front
Currently a driftcar (1996 1.8) with suspension and angle mods. Stock power. Stock wheels!! My stock wheels are 14x6.25 with 185/60 R14. Call me an idiot but I have 30mm spacers in the front so the tires won't hit the stabilizer or control arm on full lock. Time for a change heh?
Now I don't know anyone that has 4x100 wheels with low offset for me to try on so I would have no idea if they will clear or not. But just asking to debate whether it would be weird or even do anything useful if I would just swap to a little skinnier tire if they end up not clearing by a hair. I'm getting new wheels so no more spacers.
Experiences? lmk
#3
If all fits I would just go same size all around tho. Might try and find a place where I can test fit a set before purchasing
#4
I have a set of MR-2 ZZW30 rims with AD08R tyres. Those are staggered, so 6J rims on the front with 195/50/15 and 6,5J on the rear with 205/50/15.
The AD08R are awesome and the wheels look nice on the MX-5, but driving them sucks. It makes the car understeer a lot and it spoils the handling balance of the car.
The AD08R are awesome and the wheels look nice on the MX-5, but driving them sucks. It makes the car understeer a lot and it spoils the handling balance of the car.
#5
I have a set of MR-2 ZZW30 rims with AD08R tyres. Those are staggered, so 6J rims on the front with 195/50/15 and 6,5J on the rear with 205/50/15.
The AD08R are awesome and the wheels look nice on the MX-5, but driving them sucks. It makes the car understeer a lot and it spoils the handling balance of the car.
The AD08R are awesome and the wheels look nice on the MX-5, but driving them sucks. It makes the car understeer a lot and it spoils the handling balance of the car.
Makes me wonder if any1 running 300 whp or beyond has a different setup.
#6
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You would only stagger tires when you make enough power to require large enough rear tires that you can't fit the fronts. 300whp is still likely manageable with 225/45/15, so run 225's in the front too. If you bump the rear up to 245, bump the front up to 245, it's worth the fender work to get them to fit. If you make enough power to require 275's? Then either make them fit in the front too, or you'll be stuck with understeer. You can tune out the understeer but it won't be ideal. A roughly 50/50 car will desire 50/50 tires.
#7
You would only stagger tires when you make enough power to require large enough rear tires that you can't fit the fronts. 300whp is still likely manageable with 225/45/15, so run 225's in the front too. If you bump the rear up to 245, bump the front up to 245, it's worth the fender work to get them to fit. If you make enough power to require 275's? Then either make them fit in the front too, or you'll be stuck with understeer. You can tune out the understeer but it won't be ideal. A roughly 50/50 car will desire 50/50 tires.
My only debate left is the front inner sidewall clearing the control arm with my stupid angle. I suppose I will have to find stupid offset wheels for this. Again I don't care about the fender
#8
FWIW, on my turbo drift car, I stagger tire compounds not tire size. I run 205/50/15 on 15x8 all around, zero offset in the front (using spacers) to prevent machining my wheels on the lower control arms. I run a sticky tire up front, currently ZIIIs, and then burner tires in the rear.
I'd be a little weary of drifting with stock power on 225/45/15, you might have trouble spinning them up. Also, most tires in that size are sticky and not cheap, and as you know, tires get expensive when drifting....
I'd be a little weary of drifting with stock power on 225/45/15, you might have trouble spinning them up. Also, most tires in that size are sticky and not cheap, and as you know, tires get expensive when drifting....
#9
FWIW, on my turbo drift car, I stagger tire compounds not tire size. I run 205/50/15 on 15x8 all around, zero offset in the front (using spacers) to prevent machining my wheels on the lower control arms. I run a sticky tire up front, currently ZIIIs, and then burner tires in the rear.
I'd be a little weary of drifting with stock power on 225/45/15, you might have trouble spinning them up. Also, most tires in that size are sticky and not cheap, and as you know, tires get expensive when drifting....
I'd be a little weary of drifting with stock power on 225/45/15, you might have trouble spinning them up. Also, most tires in that size are sticky and not cheap, and as you know, tires get expensive when drifting....
But very interesting to read what you're using. You see, I'm on 30mm spacers in the front right now and I want to completely get rid of them. You are on 15x8 et0 and front doesn't clear the control arm. Can I ask what mods u did to the steering and/or alignment and what spacers you needed to clear the control arms? Im on destroyordie knuckles/rods and rod spacers lol.
#10
But very interesting to read what you're using. You see, I'm on 30mm spacers in the front right now and I want to completely get rid of them. You are on 15x8 et0 and front doesn't clear the control arm. Can I ask what mods u did to the steering and/or alignment and what spacers you needed to clear the control arms? Im on destroyordie knuckles/rods and rod spacers lol.
Put current wheel setup on full lock, measure clearance to control arm.
you know you have 30mm spacers, and you know your current wheel specs, so just do current wheel offset less 30 and you've got the offset that fits without spacers.
If you want to change width, just do the usual calcs to work out inner clearances.
#11
For reference, offset formulas for clearance FROM HUB FACE
Rim width = W
Offset = O
Inner clearance = ((W*25.4)/2)+O
Outer clearance = ((W*25.4)/2)-O
So a 15x8+25 would be:
((8*25.4)/2)+25 = Inner clearance 126.6mm
((8*25.4)/2)-25 = Outer clearance 76.6mm
Then just add about 10mm to each side to take the lip into account, since width etc is measure from the bead set, not the extreme edge of the wheel.
Rim width = W
Offset = O
Inner clearance = ((W*25.4)/2)+O
Outer clearance = ((W*25.4)/2)-O
So a 15x8+25 would be:
((8*25.4)/2)+25 = Inner clearance 126.6mm
((8*25.4)/2)-25 = Outer clearance 76.6mm
Then just add about 10mm to each side to take the lip into account, since width etc is measure from the bead set, not the extreme edge of the wheel.
#13
Ramon, my wheels are 15x8 +20. When I'm prepping my car for a drift event, I put on the 20mm spacer on the front bringing my offset to et 0. With the spacer, I DO NOT hit the lower control arm at full lock. I have Toolbagfab front angle knuckles, extended LBJ, and tie rod spacers. Front camber set to 3.5 and max out the caster once camber is met, zero toe. Rear alignment is zero toe, zero camber with paco upper control arms.
I prefer not to run the spacer all the time due to the increased scrub radius cause I drive the car quite a bit and like to run nice tires in the front, 205 DZIIIs. I have been running 205s out back, last set were DZ102s. I liked them a lot, good traction and quite controllable. My drift car is a turbo'd 94, 99-00 stock block/5 speed, E85, 12 psi. Power is adequate, I decided to keep the drift car as a stock block car, as after 250 hp things start to get expensive!
I prefer not to run the spacer all the time due to the increased scrub radius cause I drive the car quite a bit and like to run nice tires in the front, 205 DZIIIs. I have been running 205s out back, last set were DZ102s. I liked them a lot, good traction and quite controllable. My drift car is a turbo'd 94, 99-00 stock block/5 speed, E85, 12 psi. Power is adequate, I decided to keep the drift car as a stock block car, as after 250 hp things start to get expensive!
#14
Ramon, my wheels are 15x8 +20. When I'm prepping my car for a drift event, I put on the 20mm spacer on the front bringing my offset to et 0. With the spacer, I DO NOT hit the lower control arm at full lock. I have Toolbagfab front angle knuckles, extended LBJ, and tie rod spacers. Front camber set to 3.5 and max out the caster once camber is met, zero toe. Rear alignment is zero toe, zero camber with paco upper control arms.
I prefer not to run the spacer all the time due to the increased scrub radius cause I drive the car quite a bit and like to run nice tires in the front, 205 DZIIIs. I have been running 205s out back, last set were DZ102s. I liked them a lot, good traction and quite controllable. My drift car is a turbo'd 94, 99-00 stock block/5 speed, E85, 12 psi. Power is adequate, I decided to keep the drift car as a stock block car, as after 250 hp things start to get expensive!
I prefer not to run the spacer all the time due to the increased scrub radius cause I drive the car quite a bit and like to run nice tires in the front, 205 DZIIIs. I have been running 205s out back, last set were DZ102s. I liked them a lot, good traction and quite controllable. My drift car is a turbo'd 94, 99-00 stock block/5 speed, E85, 12 psi. Power is adequate, I decided to keep the drift car as a stock block car, as after 250 hp things start to get expensive!
But you're saying u will hit control arms way before full lock with your street setup? I understand u want less scrub radius but I kinda wanna be able to hit full lock with the street setup. Maybe run a lil less camber if it's very bad.
What are extended lbj? Lower ball joints? What it do?
Thnx for your reply!
#15
Yes, expensive.
But you're saying u will hit control arms way before full lock with your street setup? I understand u want less scrub radius but I kinda wanna be able to hit full lock with the street setup. Maybe run a lil less camber if it's very bad.
What are extended lbj? Lower ball joints? What it do?
Thnx for your reply!
But you're saying u will hit control arms way before full lock with your street setup? I understand u want less scrub radius but I kinda wanna be able to hit full lock with the street setup. Maybe run a lil less camber if it's very bad.
What are extended lbj? Lower ball joints? What it do?
Thnx for your reply!
Why not get Destroy or Die control arms and be done with it! Those are sick and fix all issues and have extended lbjs "built in". I'm debating selling all my stuff and getting a full destroy or die kit, looks like quality stuff. Shipping to the US just hurts though...
#16
Yes, I hit the lower control arms, LCA, when in street mode, but i wouldn't say that I hit "way before for full lock", it still more angle than stock and plenty of angle for anything you should be doing on the street . You are correct, lbj=lower ball joint. Extended lower ball joints help you get more camber in the front, more camber helps avoid hitting the LCA as it brings the bottom of the wheel further outboard and increased front grip. In my experience, camber doesn't wear tires nearly as fast as toe and scrub.
Why not get Destroy or Die control arms and be done with it! Those are sick and fix all issues and have extended lbjs "built in". I'm debating selling all my stuff and getting a full destroy or die kit, looks like quality stuff. Shipping to the US just hurts though...
Why not get Destroy or Die control arms and be done with it! Those are sick and fix all issues and have extended lbjs "built in". I'm debating selling all my stuff and getting a full destroy or die kit, looks like quality stuff. Shipping to the US just hurts though...
Ty
#18
Little late reply from my side. Thnx everyone for so much useful information! I've been thinking I really want to get those control arms. But! There is still this front stabilizer or sway bar you may call it that is just as close to the wheel as the stock control arm. So when I get the destroyordie controll arms now the stabilizer is the next issue. I have read about removing the sway bar and just increasing spring pressure. I have no idea if I should do this or not. How it affects our miatas or anything like that. Do all na miatas even come with this sway bar?
Ty
Ty
I have no experience with the Destroy or Die control arms, but I do know they do have a mount for the front sway bar. I would reach out to them and see what they run in terms of sway bars and front wheel offsets.
#19
As Turbomack stated, yes you have a front sway bar. And yes, I still rub the sway bar with the tire but clear the stock control arm at full lock with 15x8 et 0 wheels. A local miata drifter removed his front sway to make room for more lock and he does really well in competition. I prefer the feel of the car with mine in. I suggest you take the car out drifting, then pull the front sway bar and repeat. Then make a decision if you like the feel of the car with a bit more lock and no front sway or if you prefer it with the sway bar in. This type of trial and error is free and saves you from buying parts you may not need or end up even liking.
I have no experience with the Destroy or Die control arms, but I do know they do have a mount for the front sway bar. I would reach out to them and see what they run in terms of sway bars and front wheel offsets.
I have no experience with the Destroy or Die control arms, but I do know they do have a mount for the front sway bar. I would reach out to them and see what they run in terms of sway bars and front wheel offsets.
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