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Old 05-24-2014, 07:23 PM   #21
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It sounds like you're already running wider than us east cost SSM and CSP guys. Over here were at like 69" outside of tire to outside of tire at the front of the front tires.
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Old 05-24-2014, 07:31 PM   #22
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Both 275s?
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Old 05-24-2014, 10:08 PM   #23
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Both 275s?
yep
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Old 05-24-2014, 11:22 PM   #24
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It sounds like you're already running wider than us east cost SSM and CSP guys. Over here were at like 69" outside of tire to outside of tire at the front of the front tires.
15X10 with an et of ~ 20 is pretty much the standard for 275/35/15 Hoosiers. If you are running 275's any narrower track than that you are making retarded compromises to bump travel or alignment settings because the front tire will take out the inner fender area with excessive interference. ET of 20 rubs a tolerable amount and it is pretty close to the same amount of rub within a couple mm weather it is mounted on an 8, 9, 10, or an 11 because the shoulder position doesnít change very much just the sidewall shape. My track width with the 11's is the same as about any top national level CSP car the tire bead is just 1/2Ē further out than the current convention. I think the improvement in tire kinematics is way more important than worrying about a half inch of width. And In reality itís Probably less than 2mm difference if you measure where it will clip the base of a cone.
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Old 05-25-2014, 12:21 AM   #25
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Ok, 20 or 19 is about what we run on the 15x10s. You made it sound like your 15x10s were a lower offset than that and that your 15x11s brought it back to normal, normal on a 15x11 would be like +6.
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Old 05-25-2014, 01:36 AM   #26
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Ok, 20 or 19 is about what we run on the 15x10s. You made it sound like your 15x10s were a lower offset than that and that your 15x11s brought it back to normal, normal on a 15x11 would be like +6.
With the 949 racing 10" which are 25 offset as is I need 5mm spacers to get them to fit making them 20 offset. I ordered these wheels with 3/4" offset making them 19.05mm and run them without spacers. 0.95mm difference is nothing.

FWIW there is also like zero room to run less offset than this. the tire just kisses the firewall when the wheels are cut sort of sharp as it is. any further outboard and they will crash hard into the firewall. there is really no offset that works right with 275's other than 20mm plus or minus a millimeter or so.
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Old 05-25-2014, 09:48 AM   #27
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I'm not sure how you arent destroying the tires on the shock tower with the wider wheels at the same offset, I already still touch there and until just recently I was destroying tires on the shock tower even with a 5mm spacer on the +20 wheels.
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Old 05-25-2014, 11:54 PM   #28
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I'm not sure how you arent destroying the tires on the shock tower with the wider wheels at the same offset, I already still touch there and until just recently I was destroying tires on the shock tower even with a 5mm spacer on the +20 wheels.
The shoulder of the tire doesn't really get wider when you mount it on a wider wheel your just not going to get a tire carcass made with steel and Kevlar or rigid nylon in it to expand that direction. You are really only changing the angle of the sidewall relative to the shoulder and the tread area surface.

My tires do rub a little you can see the black mark in the wheel well up next to the shock top in the second to last pic. It is not bad enough to destroy the tire. If I run 949 10Ē wheels without a 5mm spacer it would just shred the tire in a hard corner with the outside front loaded. I have V8R arms running ~3.8 deg negative camber up front.

I should also point out in that pic the spring is off the seat. The AST 949 racing XIDA double adjustables with 900lb springs even with a helper have too much stroke for that spring rate to keep them seated with both front wheels in full droop. Not Ideal but not really a problem ether.

Another thing to point out is with those shock tops that come with the 949 doubles is that the upper spring seat is attached to the shock shaft so the upper spring seat stays aligned with the shock at all times. This eliminates the spring from having to take up misalignments in angle between the shock and the flat surface of the chassis in the shock top area as the suspension articulates or if you lean the shocks over more than stock as I did by slotting the holes in the top hat.
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Old 05-26-2014, 09:16 AM   #29
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I see it now.

I too have the problem with the springs not staying seated, BUT my sway bar binds before then so its not a big deal unless I dukes of hazzard the car. But that is why you see pictures of my car almost dangling the front wheel. My new control arms should mount the sway bar tab lower so I can make my end links longer which should help with the bind a little.

I'm still running the NB mounts, I had to cut the **** out of them to make the tires not rub on them. I never thought to oval out the mount holes and tip them in, I thought that allowance was only for strut cars.
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Old 05-26-2014, 03:06 PM   #30
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I see it now.

I too have the problem with the springs not staying seated, BUT my sway bar binds before then so its not a big deal unless I dukes of hazzard the car. But that is why you see pictures of my car almost dangling the front wheel. My new control arms should mount the sway bar tab lower so I can make my end links longer which should help with the bind a little.

I'm still running the NB mounts, I had to cut the **** out of them to make the tires not rub on them. I never thought to oval out the mount holes and tip them in, I thought that allowance was only for strut cars.
I didn't slot the chasse side like the strut cars. Top hats are open as far as I can figure.
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Old 05-27-2014, 01:50 AM   #31
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Top hats are open.
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Old 05-27-2014, 02:06 PM   #32
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I have it convertible between Autocross and track setup. Itís got welded in landing plates for Hard core roll bar and door bars which help make install faster.
Nice. I've been very temped to do this by welding the backing plates to the chassis and nuts on rollbar plates. Then the roll bar could be dropped in and everything bolted in from the underside.
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Old 05-27-2014, 02:09 PM   #33
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Brake clearence and pricing on the wheels please Can they clear 11.75" brakes?
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Old 05-27-2014, 02:13 PM   #34
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pricing on the wheels please
Keizers, more than you can afford, pal.
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Old 05-27-2014, 02:16 PM   #35
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Bob, really stupid and ricer question in light of the subject of this thread...

But what trunk spoiler is that?
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Old 05-27-2014, 02:35 PM   #36
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Bob, really stupid and ricer question in light of the subject of this thread...

But what trunk spoiler is that?
Simpson Design. No longer in production sadly.
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Old 05-27-2014, 02:38 PM   #37
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Brake clearence and pricing on the wheels please Can they clear 11.75" brakes?
I have 11.75" brakes. They are custom made wheels. I gave them my brake template to clear. Wheels were $400 each.
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Old 05-27-2014, 02:42 PM   #38
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$400? That's pretty reasonable. I like.
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Old 05-27-2014, 02:44 PM   #39
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I have 11.75" brakes. They are custom made wheels. I gave them my brake template to clear. Wheels were $400 each.
Who do you know that you got that discount? When quoting 15x10s from keisler I was getting prices in the upper $1700s for a set + shipping, and you got an even less common barrel size for less.

I wish spinwerks were still around, $1200 for a set of 4 custom, 13lb 15x10s was tit.
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Old 05-27-2014, 03:02 PM   #40
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Who do you know that you got that discount? When quoting 15x10s from keisler I was getting prices in the upper $1700s for a set + shipping, and you got an even less common barrel size for less.

I wish spinwerks were still around, $1200 for a set of 4 custom, 13lb 15x10s was tit.
They are not the magnesium centers which cost more for one it is the Kosmo Billet center Im not sure what the weight differance is. As far as I know that was the standard price. They also have a lighter billet center, the 4L for the same price but I was steered away from that based on car weight and Hp it looks more like it was designed for a Formula SAE car.
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