Is it me or does it look like the wheels are staggerd in this pic?

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2783/...88bd2527_o.jpg

i does somewhat appears that way!

maybe a 9 in the front and 10 in the rear.........did you measure all 4 fenders to see how much extra width you got after install? i seen pics that looks to be 2 1/2 inches extra....is it the same on all 4?

Thumbing through the Hoosier racing tire catalog they make slicks in 23.5” OD in both 11 and 12” wide. For 16” wheels. don’t list anything for 17” they skip to 18” . They are said for GT2 application in that size. and both are recommended to be mounted on 12” wide wheels.

This is not very far off in diameter. They would work ok with relatively stock suspension geometry I still think you would need tubbed fenders though.

Bob

i wouldnt be running no where near 11 or 12 inch wide wheels at most i would run 10's with a low offset!

Cspence hurry and get some wheel and tell us if there is any futher modification needed? pawease.......

So the next question is if anyone is running 17's with the flares. LS3 thoughts are creeping in my head and the 15/16's are limited in width on street and track tires.

That's me in the passenger seat. This picture was taken at an event in September at Nashville Super Speedway - car is sick; we were doing over 150 at the end of the front straightaway. This is the car that made me want to build a turbo Miata - I lived upstairs from the owner when he put an FMII kit on the car in 2000. It's come a long way since then...really bad ass car.

pics pics pics!!!!!

Pics of what - the car? The wheels? I have a couple of low quality videos of the car tearing down the front straight at Nashville Superspeedway.

Anything ya got! I love that car.

plenty of 15s available in 12" width. perhaps you're looking at specific one?

Personally i wouldnt go with something bigger than a 16" otherwise you'll have to make the tires bigger. You dont want it looking like a hotwheels toy car with the oversized tires or the NC.


and while looking for a pic for the nc here is what i found.
http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_2kjisMm3M9...s400/miata.jpg


If it wasnt for batman and robin i'd say its a pretty good photoshop

IIRC (I'd need to talk to the owner) I think they are 10/11 or 11/12's. I don't remember if the rear was tubbed or not. It's been a long time since I've seen that car in person, well at least really looked it over.

Here are some really old pics of the car, but it does show the flares and some better still shots of the wheels:

http://home.comcast.net/~jeremyschus...es/flares.html

Those pics are when it was still an SM2 autocross car and was running on 15" wheels. I am pretty sure he is on 16" now. That red car in the background of this pic sure is pretty sharp. ;)

http://home.comcast.net/~jeremyschus...s/img_0316.jpg

Thank you sir!...now all we need are the videos you spoke of ;)

I was laughing at how many shots of Jeremy's car had yours in the background.

In A6 and R6 you can only go with a 275 and for street tires you are limited to a 245. I struggle with 225 A6s and I know CSP guys that could use more tire than a 275. There are just no options for the street and a few options for the track.

Sorry it took so long to get this up...it was buried deep in the memory of my phone. This car sounds awesome roaring down the straight.

Just thinking about everything I'll need to specify when it comes time to order wheels. Since the wheels I want are custom order they can come with a generic hub hole (2.6" for the 4 lug wheels) or they can make any size hub opening to make the wheels hubcentric. My question is, which is the best way to go? I'm assuming hub centric would be the best, but I'm not 100% sure. Does it even really matter that much? I guess I need to be schooled in this a little bit. Also, just so I know, what is the hub diameter on the miata, 60.1mm? (I think I saw that somewhere...but then again I've seen 54.1mm and the 6UL's have a 67.1mm bore)


http://www.racerpartswholesale.com/d...sOrderForm.pdf

Well I've spent the past 2 hours working on this rim fitment deal and here is the scoop. On the rear, you can fit as much meat as you want....literally. A 16x10 with 245/45's would fit no problem. Shit you could probably fit a damn 16x12 if you wanted to. Now all the issue come with the front which is where I spent most of my time trying to figure out the offset that would interfere with turning the least (3 & 9 oclock positions). This said, my original plans of a 16x9.5 0et with a 245/45 are DEFINITLY out. After hacking up some coat hangers to mimic the tire diameter and width/offset I found that on the 16x9.5 I'd need to run a 245/35/R16 and have an offset of +32mm which would put the outside lip of the rim 3.5" out off the mounting surface of the rotor. Even with this, there would be some trimming I'd need to do to the flares in the 7-8 and 4-5 oclock positions to make room, but its doable. Believe it or not, even with the positive offset, the wheel would still be almost flush with the outermost edge of the flares.....front and rear (checked the rear since I don't want to run a staggard setup)......now did anything I mention jump out to anyone....probably not, but the +32mm offset is pretty darn close to another popular wheel. Thats right the 6UL has a +36. Granted the 15x9 would be .5" narrower than the spinwerkes and would add another 4mm of offset, but by my calculations would put the outside edge of the rim 3.08" out off the mounting surface of the rotor.......so the moral of the story is that 15x9 6UL's with a .5" spacer will be close to flush with the Tuckin99's and the 245/40/R15 or 225/45/R15 have basically the same rolling diameter as the 245/35/R16 so the interference will be basically the same as I noted above.

Sorry about the long winded reponse, I just wanted to put my findings out there for others. In my eyes, I'm thinking I may go with the 6UL's now just for the mere fact that they are 3lbs lighter than the 16x9.5 spinwerks, look better, are probably stronger, and are $70 cheaper - each.....and all I'll have to do is run .5" spacer, if I'm worried about having the wheels fill out the flares more.

O yea, if anyone is curious the hub diameter is 54.1mm....I verified it while I was doing all this

Lol....now I understand what all this blabbering was about :giggle: spent my whole day pondering about the best setup to go with and I still dont know what to do because of this.

Your measuring is way off...something is up if the 6UL only needs a .5 spacer to be flush. Those pictures you got from spoolin were the flares on my beater with a rolled and mild pulled rear and it had 2-3 inch's of extra space...fyi

yeah it was a bunch of blabbering! :giggle: my bad!

all you need to do to have more room for turning is move the support bar the keeps the sides of the bumper out forward about an 1" 1/2 and cut more!

with flares!

Attachment 200970

flares taken off the front! you can see exactly how much was cut out!

http://img89.imageshack.us/img89/6180/13014hx7.jpg

just decided to throw this one in there too! "his engine bay"

http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c2...c/P1000612.jpg


ill go take some pics and play with them a lil to show what im talking bout

Off a little yes, but not all that much. Right now I have some kosei K1's 15x7 +38 on the car and from the tire to the edge of the flare both front and rear is 2.5". Now since the offsets between the kosei's and the 6uls are basically the same, the 15x9 6ul would add 1" leaving 1.5" to the edge of the flare. With the .5" spacer you'd be down to 1" from the edge of the flare to the edge of the tire and that is only at the 12 oclock position. Since the flare tapers down significantly on either side, the tire would actually be beyond the flare towards the 7 & 4 oclock positions. You can see what I mean in this picture pretty well. On another note though, I dont know how this guy got his wheel gap down so tight. His car must be really slammed because my car is low and with a 23" tire diameter I'll still be able to stick 2-3 fingers between the top of the tire and the flare.

Attachment 200964


Yea, looks like I'm going to do more surgery....might even have to trim the flares a little too (2nd pic).

Attachment 200965

Attachment 200966

Did some experimenting tonight with my Kosei K1's (15x7 +38et 205/50/R15) to see what different 6UL setups would look like. Obviously if I had the right rim there would be 2 more inches of rubber, but at least I was able to see where the outside of the wheel would be...The 2x4 is basically the same height as the tire (23", same diameter as a 205/50/R15 and 225/45/R15)and is pushed up against the tire to make it easier to see where the tire is.

15x9 +36et 6UL as is, no spacer
Attachment 200927


15x9 +36et 6UL 25mm spacer
Attachment 200928

Attachment 200929


15x9 +36et 6UL 30mm spacer[/B]
Attachment 200930

im a dummy when it comes to spacing and offset and all that crap! but it looks like you got this shit figured out Cspence! :bigtu:

what size spacer would i need for 16x8 0 offset, to get it to be flush with the flares or damn near flush?

From my calculations the 16x8 0et would be basically the same as the 15x9 +36 6UL with the 25mm spacer which I think looks okay....if you wanted to fill them out more you could run like 1/2" spacer or so...

sweet thanks!

now i just need to locate some good quality spacers!

If I end up going the 6UL with spacer route these are the spacers I'm going to order. Cheaper than a lot I've seen and appear to be top notch!

We manufacture the best Wheel Spacers money can buy | Motorsport Technology

https://www.miataturbo.net/forum/t43261/

Just came across another nice picture of the spinwerkes....This is a 15x10 if your curious

http://img20.imageshack.us/img20/1299/spinwerkes1.jpg

http://www.msprotege.com/members/Jef...pinwerkes3.jpg

decisions decisions....................:giggle:

http://949racing.com/ProductImages/6...el_genII_2.jpg


http://ronleiferman.smugmug.com/gall...95291945_VGYwk

Painted black....

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b3...4Image0002.jpg

15x10 275/35/R15...
http://images33.fotki.com/v1135/phot...8244/NN-vi.jpg

http://www.msprotege.com/members/Jef...int/jeff96.jpg

thats a tough one! the 6UL is :drool: worthy! the spinwerks would be even better if they wernt so shiny!


event though the kodiaks are on the pricey side im still stuck on them! but for now my wheels i have now will suffice for long enough with spacers when i get the flares, till i can afford them!

Shit though, for the price of 1 set of kodiaks you could have 6UL's and Spinwerkes....If I go with spinwerks I'll be doing something about the finish...I wish I could just figure out which wheel I want to go with. Still open to other suggestions :bigtu:

are you gonna be running 16x8's so you can keep your tire options open?

with the modifications that follows with these flares, im thinking go big or go home for me, i dont know how stupid this will be or how streetable 9's or 10's will be (tire options are kinda limited as well) i may go the spinwerks route and go for a simi-gloss black finish!

Wow,never knew of that place,Looks to have good prices for being 6061 billet adapters.

If I go with spinwerkes, definitly 16x9 or 16x9.5. The 245/35 will fit on those nicely.

I didn't know about them either until the other day. They look like a quality piece especially being hubcentric and wheelcentric. Its a spacer and a centering ring at the same time. This is why I'm really contimplating getting 6ULS.....I had previously thought that I would only be able to get crappy spacers, but since I can get nice ones that only weigh about 1# each the 6ULs are an still an option...

Err ignore me..

Say wuh?

I posted up a wheel... realized a mistake and couldn't just delete :p

I'll be curious to see your end wheel treatment... as I'll be installing the same flares soonish.

Thats what I figured, just curious. What wheel you thinking of going with? Any other options you thinking about? I really need to make a decision by march / April



Spinwerks in action:
Attachment 200892

Attachment 200893

Attachment 200894

Attachment 200895

Attachment 200896

Attachment 200897


What wheels are these??
Attachment 200898

Those look like the Team Dynamics Pro Race II.

Nothing even close to the width you're looking for in 15" or 16".

I was going to say the 15x10 Diamond Pro series came in at 17lbs... but then I realized I had quoted the weight of the Wide5 format.

I've seen people make wide5 to 4x100 adapters... but nothing I'd trust for real on track use... so I retracted it on the misquote and then the really not wise to use adapter reason also.

And with this picture, I believe my decision has been made.....love em. Yes they can fit without flares, yes there are better wheels out there for the tuckin99 flares, and yes spacers are probably not the best solution.....but for how these things look, what they weigh, and how much they cost you simply cannot beat it. Now if my budget was doubled it'd be a much different story. Figures the 15x9 nickels are out of stock till March :vash:

http://chows.smugmug.com/photos/568867491_4hs5B-L.jpg

Being the loser I am, I was curious what the weight of the spacers from Motorsport-Tech will be. After some calculations, this is what you can *roughly*(+ or - .1#'s) expect them to tip the scales at:

http://www.motorsport-tech.com/wheel_spacers.html

30mm: 1.81 lbs
25mm: 1.52 lbs
20mm: 1.22 lbs
15mm: 0.93 lbs
10mm: 0.64 lbs

Attachment 200863

So, worst case senario, the 30mm spacers with the 15x9 6UL's will tip the scales at 14.5 lbs (12.7 for the 6UL) and it will increase the track by 2.375". At 14.5 #'s, its still slightly lighter than the spinwerkes 15" wheel and about 1.5#'s lighter than the 16x9's. In the front I'll most likely never be able to swing the 30mm spacer (I'm going to see what I can do) so I am thinking I might run a 15-20mm spacer up front in attempt to keep the track as close to the rear as I can.

Do spacers that thick alter the suspension geometry of the Miata and hurt handling? I've heard differing opinions on that topic. At one point I had planned to do 15x9 6ULs with the 25mm H&R spacers and flares, but for a number of reasons decided against it. Also, is there any reason to think those spacers won't hold up for heavy track duty?

Any wheel and suspension other than stock probably changes Mazda's original suspension geometry....for better or worse is debatable. In my eyes, my only other option was to run a low offset wheel which is basically the same thing, so I can't see the spacers being an issue, especially since this combo will be lighter than my alternative low et wheel (ie. not Bogarts or Kodiaks).

From the limited searching I've done on this topic, if you put in the proper length studs where you can get about 9 full turns on the lug nut, there should be no issues. If you were running adapters or something, then I'd say it'd be a problem. For me there is no issues since my car is mostly for the street. I may start tracking it here and there in a year or so but I wouldn't be worried about it. If I was a die hard track junkie like Sav, I'd be saving up to get some real wheels at $500 a clip ;)

Here are some Kodiaks for sale that would need 2 outer shells for a complete set that would work great for those wanting to flare.

SCCAForums.com - FS: 15x10.5, 15x8.5 Kodiak wheels 4x100

Sbrian2 i love how it says these wheels would fit Honda Civic's (92+) or Miata's fairly easily. How you fit a 225 in the front and a 275 wheel on the back of a miata fairly easily is beyond me :D


that style is the worst spacers available for sale currently. They put about an inch of leverage on the studs. That leverage can be prevented with the spacers that have their own set of studs.

Any data to back this statement up? Having a spacer with its own studs would be just like an adapter, which I've always heard to be a no-no. If you have any articles or sites debating this topic I'd love to give them a read....

Everything is easy with a sawzall. 275's on a miata is very common on competitive autocross cars.

I'll do the math later to back it up as i got class now however this is a very common problem on trucks since they run heavier tires however on a miata thats running slicks, the forces are much greater.

The antithis to this topic, but I'm trying to squeeze a 275 Hoosier under the fender and keep the car as narrow as possible - for autocross.

I bought a set of Weld Magnum import drag wheels in 15x10 with 6 inch backspacing. The wheels by themselves stick out past the peak of the fender about 1/2 inch. With tires that should be about 1 inch. I'm going to try to pull the fender enough to cover the tire.

FWIW, they clear 1.6 brakes, but I don't think they will clear 1.8 brakes. Weld sells these in a number of other backspacings that would give you more dish and fill out a flare.

And the bare wheels only weigh 12.15 lbs, or 12 lbs 3 oz.

On the car.
Attachment 200808

This is not in line with the fender, but out a ways so you can see the width.
Attachment 200809

Flyweight.
Attachment 200810

Whats the price on the Welds though?

yeah! in for price!

those wheels dont look half bad either!

It was around $1425 for four wheels shipped from Summit. They were special order and it took around six weeks.

They checked four times to make sure that I really wanted them. :laugh:

damn! thats $356.25 a wheel! :crx:

Too rich for my blood at the moment. I'd rather get the 6UL's / spacers and start saving for more "go-fast" bits...

/\/\/\/\ tru dat!

theres no denying your a baller with those welds.

Thats my exact motivation when I head in the direction of diamond style wheels. I'm willing to give up that couple pounds though to skip buying spacers.

Not quite. They're the cheapest lightweight 15x10 available. Hardly baller status. :2cents:

ya, I guess ur right. There still nice wheels though.