Anything yet?

Sadly i cant find the strength or tension of the stock miata bolts :vash:

Attachment 200773

Left is with spacers right is without.

To make this easy i rounded it off to 1000lb

I used 1" spacer, the other 1/2" is simply the distance from the mounting face to the distance of the nut it self on the rim.

The basics of bolts, bolts are good for tension however they are not too good about side flex so moment is bad, too much moment on a part thats not made to take it ends up looking like this :)

http://www.pponk.com/LARGE%20IMAGES/broken_bolt.jpg

The way the studs are inserted, Motion is created naturally, in other words the bolt cannot move around up and down, it stays straight out to the side. This is why you see the half circle with the arrow there.

The basic behind the above picture is you have to have enough tension on the bolts to keep the force of friction high enough to hold that 1000lb (when racing that 1000 will be much much bigger).

Assuming the bolts have enough tension and the force of friction is in control of the entire situation. The aluminum will flex a tiny bit, the spacer it self will also flex a tiny bit and same thing with the rim. Its a small flex but its still there. The closer the nut is to the beginning of the rim.. the less flex you have the less moment the stud will be forced to take.

http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/b...ff/bending.jpg

You can clearly see that the distance increases as the rim gets further from the hub. In the not to scale image above exaggerated to show the angle, lets call distance A 1/2" (first example rim measurement) and distance B 1" and a half... The next thing is the Tension. If the stud is offset by 1/16" the tension increases since the stud was originally 1/2", now its
.5^2+1/16^2=.25+.00390625=c^2=c>.503891

in other words the stud is now stretched by .003891.

With the bigger spacer you got

1.5^2+1/4^2= 2.25+.0625=c^2=c>1.52069

In other words the stud is now stretched by .02069...thats more than 5 times more than without the spacer.

The next on the list would be the tolerance of these things. The hub has a lip in the middle thats there to keep the rim centered if force of friction is not enough to hold the rim.
http://www.midland-ferrari.co.uk/edi...ype1spacer.jpg


The last time i got a set of spacers in my hands, i could tell they were different by just looking at them. One hole was bigger than the other to the naked eye. Thats not something i want holding my rim positioned. 75% of the spacers dont even have those lips in place, they are just a flat cylinder with 4-5 holes in them and then the big one in the middle. dont forget that most spacers are universal and not many cars have the exact same size lip.



next on the list is the spacer with its own studs.
http://www.gilracing.com/VolvoSpacer...cerCloseUP.jpg

If its made by a reputable shop (good tolerances) its your best bet of a spacer. In my opinion if you are going to use a spacer use this type of spacer. The only negative to this spacer is that you have a set of nuts that are hidden by the rim.

This is the best explanation with the information i have. Hopefully after this oncoming semester of engineering i'll be able to explain it better.

And twice as many failure points because of those hidden lug nuts. I have no idea how they think you're going to get a lug and socket in and below that little counter bore. I was going to mention this earlier Cspence, whatever you do, make sure there's a locating bore for the miata hub, and a locating ring for the wheel's hub. AKA hubcentric, not lugcentric, hmkay?

Gotta choose your poisons here. I rather put some locktite on my nuts than have them ripped off :idea:

:hustler: you lost me whit all dat math and junk!


:idea: what about getting stronger studs to withstand the pressure and force you speak of?

so we got three options!

A: go with a crazy et
B: go with a good ol-fashion spacer
C: go with a cool studded spacer!

Z: if your skurd............dont get fuckin flares! :giggle:

My thoughts exactly.


The one thing I noticed wrong in sketches above is that the spacers I was talking about are both hubcentric and wheel centric. Therefore the studs are not solely responsible for supporting the weight of the car and the rotational forces of the car while it is being driven. With the style spacer I was refering to, I would think that the hub would take on the majority of the stress vs the lugs which would just be holding the wheel on, not supporting the weight of the car. The only increase in stress on the lugs that I can think of would be the rotational forces from accelerating and decelerating since the wheel would be located further out on the studs. Even with this in mind though, I dont think this would cause any rise for concern since these forces probably wouldn't even be applied to the studs since the wheel would be clamped to the hub with 80+ft.lbs per stud....I'm thinking any forces would be applied to the hub as a whole. The picture below kind of explains my thoughts based off the custom spacers from Motorsport-Tech where the hubcentric "inside" bore would be 54.1mm (Stock miata) and the wheel centric bore on the outside would be 67.1mm for the 6ul. Any one else have some insight on this subject?

http://www.motorsport-tech.com/wheel_spacers.html

Attachment 200752

as long as the tolerances are perfect the center lip should keep the wheels centered and prevent the bolts from taking all the motion, if they are not right on you have 4 faces depending on the tension of the same bolts to keep them at friction higher than the maximum weight put on them, if that friction brakes, thats where the motion comes in and the studs will hold a lot more beating if the rim is right at the base then right on the end by the inch and a half area on my pictures.

No that first image is not wrong, you can see the center playing a factor.

i ran spacers with the extra screws and they came with their own nuts that fit in the hole with plenty of room to spare. You still use the stock nuts at the end when putting on the rim.

Here is what I ended up going with.....I posted this in my build thread, but figured I'd post it here too incase someone is ever doin some research.
https://www.miataturbo.net/forum/t33438-13/

The spacers weigh in as follows (WITH the shorty lugs):
30mm - 2.80 #'s (15.5 with the 6ul....not bad considering the 16x9.5 spinwerkes were going to be 16.5#'s)
19mm - 2.05 #'s (14.75 with the 6ul)

Attachment 199852

Attachment 199853

Attachment 199854

thanks for the tool!

Lookin good dude! What you doin for wheels?

the flares need to be painted white and the car needs to be lowered and i am gonna run the xxrs that i have on it with a .5" spacer with 225 rs3s.

I still gotta paint my flares....I'm still rockin the gel coat :giggle:

You all set with it?

Didnt get to read whole thread but got the main point love the flares wish i had them do have the ogs tho and are in love with them but willing to part with them for right price

http://i42.tinypic.com/2lau5i9.jpg
http://i42.tinypic.com/nbp460.jpghttp://i42.tinypic.com/2vl416v.jpg

whats the RIGHT PRICE?

haha, you're tired of people making fun of you huh? i was thinking of getting those for street wheels at one time before i got rid of those flares. i was gonna paint them to match my car though. those do look ridiculous without flares. takes it back to 1990 "euro" lowrider look! lol.. might as well be wires, 100 spoke daytons holmes. orale!

yea not much on the flare look think 0 offset and drop looks better. But these tires handle so good even with the Mexican look. 600$$ is good price or throw me a offer

So has anyone figured out 15x8 +0 spacer size for these flares?

I'm hoping to test fit son, and try a locals 15x9 tirerack wheels.... Trying to figure out a spacer i can use with both.

Question.
What about TE37V's. If I run the 15x10 et-35, will they poke any from the flares?
Im unsure because of the extreme negative offset. I think they make 15x9 et-15 also

you have the coin for those???? dang... :drool: I'm second in line wondering about the 15x8 0 et

nvm.....

I think they are about dead nuts on, maybe a few MM off, but close. I did the same calculations last fall when trying to decide what wheels to run. Now I'm only going to be running flared in the back end. No sense in running them up front when they aren't needed.

The flares completely covered my autokonexion flares... with an inch or so to spare if I remember right. The 15x8 +0s filled out the autokonexions just fine..... they won't fill these. I held up a rear flare with back tire on last night... looked like inches of submarine.

Wow! I thought the RL/Autokonexions were huge.....

For clarification, I was talking about the outer measurements of the 15x8 XXR's and the 15x9 6ul's. Both are about the same.

My car should be on ground and about in a week or so hopefully. It'll be unspaced 15x8 +0s under the Tuckin99/Rharris copies.

So there will be pictures soon.

Just to reconfirm (if its still needed) that 15x8 +0s will NOT be flush at all.
http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/m...s/68709420.jpg
http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/m...s/7a7298ca.jpg

owned dude^

http://thereifixedit.files.wordpress...68bb4ebc32.jpg

Why arent people buying the 15x10 spinwerk 82 series....they are actually 11.8 mayybe 12.8 lbs

249$ or 229$ from bisimoto!

I was planning on 15x10 Spinwerks for my '99...before I decided to part it out. They aren't quite as light as you stated above (15.5 lbs according to the RPW website here) but still reasonable given the cost and ability to specify custom offset.

Does anybody have pics of these flares with 17s and 24.5-25" tall tires? There's so much room under these things that I think you could get away with a 17" wheel and not look like a clown shoe. That would sure open up tire selection...

Try 16's. 17's on these look like 22's on a normal car.

not a great pic, but what i had at work.
17x7 0 offset front and 17x8.5 +8 in rear.
215/40/17 Falken 615k

I saw the 15x10 -40 offset Longchamps on PAGE 2 and I was wondering where you got those pics, or if you have some more info on where to buy those babies?

I'm on the lookout for some 14/15" wheels, as wide as I can find, with as much as an extreme offset possible..

Thanks in advance if someone has that info!

Ok since on subject I was curious with enough fender modification will 15x10 -12 diamond racing wheels all around fit on my 96 miata?

Sure - the 15x10 6ULs are 15x10 +25, so at -12 offset yours will just stick out waaaaay past the stock fender lip. You'll be doing some serious fender modification to make that work. Why not just order the 6ULs?

Well I like the look of a deep dish wheel and I like diamond racing look and I'm try to go for the same look as the white miata on speedhunters who has 15x10 with -20 offset all around so I was just going to make sure that -12 wasn't going to be too much I mean I like the 0 offset they make but I wanted to get a little more of a deep dish look. I'm still kinda new to this but am I doing the right thing with what I'm going for?

clubroadster.net

Lol I just got done finding that out there is a guy running exact same setup thanks dude I'm about to start a account over there. But even though I'm still a noob thanks for being nice and not hastling me:noob:. I'm defenatly going to stay on this forum also :2cents:

That was me hassling you. Go away, fgt.

So, anyway, back on topic, does anybody have any pics of these flares with 17s? Obviously, NAs look like clown shoes with 17s. The question is, 1.) is there enough room under these flares for a 24.5-25" tall tire at a reasonable ride height, without mini tubs and 2.) is there enough room under the wheel arch to run 17s without putting spinners on them.


I'm pretty sure of the latter, and pretty iffy on the former.

I saw the 17's that are on TURNS101's set up, and don't think that looks horrible. I see a lot of folks not all that fond of the 17's on the NA. Clown shoes and all that. I've only found 1 decent tire to go on the 15x10 6UL (the Nitto 555 drag radial, 275/50-15). My intent is to put some mammoth rubber back there. (Think Pantera, and you'll be close.) The 17's open up a whole slew of tire options. Although, admittedly, the 17" wheels are damn heavy by comparison!

You'll be doing a ton of hacking and cutting to fit the 275/50. If you are doing a DR, ditch the junk 555R and go to a MT or BFG. I HATED my 555R's. Stiff sidewall, wheel hop like crazy, and not much (if at all) stickier then a standard decent street tire.

I don't think hacking and/or cutting is going to be all that much of an issue. After all, we're talking N2 flares.

I'm all for any suggestion of a legit street tire that can fill a 15x10 6UL. All I was able to find was the 555. Certainly not the best street tire, by any stretch of the imagination. I'm not into looking like some Vato with go cart tires on my ride.

I had to do a ton of hacking for the 235/60's, more then I'm comfortable with. The 235's would fit fine on the 10's in back, as they bulge a bit on the 9's

Can't believe its over....but all good things must come to an end. On to the next project! (Supercharger or turbo for my .:R32 :giggle:)

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1318985033

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1318985033

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1318985033

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1318985033

How much does the shell weight like that? How did you put it off/on the truck?

Whoops...thought I posted that in my build thread lol :giggle: It had to weight around 800....it was MUCH heavier than I thought it would be. Me and 3 other guys put it in the truck lmao

wow sad! what tire options are there for 16 wheel size

Has anyone tried this with 17's yet? I have my flares laying around for ages already because I can't really find anything decent to fill them.
Wide tyres in 15 and 16" are almost non existant, barring the rediculously expensive Porsche size 245/45/16.

I'm thinking of trying something like 17x10 with 235, 245 or 255/40/17 and 17x10,5 with 255/40/17, which are readily available in all forms one could desire.

The rocket bunny FD is running sizes along these lines and it looks pretty good.

http://www.speedhunters.com/wp-conte...FD-Prep-39.jpg

http://www.speedhunters.com/wp-conte...FD-Prep-38.jpg

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1421719505


https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1421719447

The problem is about a 25" diameter is the max(atleast for a NB) before hitting the firewall. And that is caster dependent. I fit a set of 17X9.75 +25 with used 245/40 RS3's and they fit.....barely, after folding over the pinch weld

Getting 25" tyre to fit will be a challenge, but I'm sure the firewall can be reshaped to fit them.
I can imagine a lower offset wheel will make the firewall clearance even tighter though :P.