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I FUBAR’d the original one and need a stock replacement trigger wheel for a 1996-97. I bought an FM 36-2 one and it turned out to be not compatible with the MS3 ECU. Hopefully one of you guys have one you are willing to part with. You will be my hero!!! I’m willing to trade the FM trigger wheel or buy yours.
I’ve been a heavy lurker over the years and this is one of the few times I can’t find an answer or figure it out.
1997 Miata, MK turbo, forged engine and a bunch of other goodies. Basically more money in parts than a sane person would put on a Miata.
I FUBAR’d the original one and need a stock replacement trigger wheel for a 1996-97. I bought an FM 36-2 one and it turned out to be not compatible with the MS3 ECU. Hopefully one of you guys have one you are willing to part with. You will be my hero!!! I’m willing to trade the FM trigger wheel or buy yours.
I’ve been a heavy lurker over the years and this is one of the few times I can’t find an answer or figure it out.
1997 Miata, MK turbo, forged engine and a bunch of other goodies. Basically more money in parts than a sane person would put on a Miata.
I did some more searching and found the part number. It helped having the part number and proper name.
Why can’t you make ms3 work with a fm 36-2?
My 95 is MS3 pro Pnp working well with it. A friend use to have a 96 with a Rev MS3 and that also had a 36-2.
if you are running a NB crank trigger you should be good to go. If you are running the stock 96/97 trigger I don’t think ms3 will work with that and won’t use the stock trigger wheel anyway. You’d only be using your CAS with ms3 and stock crank trigger.
My 95 uses NB crank sensor FM 36-2 wheel and CAS for cam sync to get full sequential. 96/97 should easily do same.
The FM 36-2 is compatible with the MS3. The problem on the 96-97 is that the crank sensor is a VR sensor and all PnP MS3s are not designed to use a VR sensor but a hall sensor instead.
The FM 36-2 is compatible with the MS3. The problem on the 96-97 is that the crank sensor is a VR sensor and all PnP MS3s are not designed to use a VR sensor but a hall sensor instead.
Exactly, so even a 4 tooth 96/97 wheel isn't going to help. Can likely stop searching and either just run CAS (4G63) with MS3 or run 36-2 with a NB sensor and a little wiring.
The FM 36-2 is compatible with the MS3. The problem on the 96-97 is that the crank sensor is a VR sensor and all PnP MS3s are not designed to use a VR sensor but a hall sensor instead.
Is there a kit for the hall sensor? Or just connect the sensor from a 99+?
Sorry for the lack of search. I came down with covid last night and can barely see straight.
A 99+ sensor will do it. I don’t know if Pnp ecu sees that front crank sensor factory wiring to the inputs or not though.
On my car I made a harness at the CAS. It is Pnp with a male / female 4 pin. It ignores the CAS crank signal and gets that from the NB crank sensor. It uses the CAS cam pins for cam sensing. Then I select Miata 36-2 in tunerstudio. It just works.
I swapped my obd1 95 engine to an obd2 96-97. The bolt and thread in the oil pump is smaller for the NA sensor. I *think* it was m5. I tapped the thread out for the m6 needed for the NB sensor. the thread is a ways down the hole so don't have too many threads engaged, but does hold the newer sensor in snugly.
After that attempted to mount the crank sensor I bought for it.
Turns out that NA8 OBD2 **** is not exactly the same as an NB oil pump. There is a tab cast into the pump as the crank sensor for misfire detection is attached to a bracket screwed to the pump.
see rectangular tab on right, just under tone ring. flat file and about 3 minutes took care of it.
Then there is the difference in threads. Comparing part numbers from the jim ellis fiche, then googling the part number to find bolt thread sizes shows me that both instances are 20mm long, but the OBD2 NA8 bolt is an M5, vs the M6 on an NB pump, confirmed by threading in an M6x1 into the boundary pump I have on the shelf.
So, I measured the hole as best I could on my back. appears to be about 2.5mm deep, 6-8mm wide on the outside, then 10mm of 5mm hole, unthreaded, then 6mm or so of threaded M5, way in the depths of the hole. I was way over thinking this and looking at buying a selection of shoulder bolts from mcmaster-carr, then said fuggit, and just tapped out the 10mm of the hole that is 5mm wide. Installed sensor and gapped it with a credit card, blue loctited that **** down in case of not so great thread.
W-nted to provide an update, I was able to use a 99-2005 trigger wheel/sensor (already had an upgraded oil pump that allowed the conversion to the 99+ sensor). For some reason the FM trigger wheel and 99+ sensor didn't want to read ( I did the wiring change from the cam sensor).
Another note, I'm not going to call out the user who PM'd me because I'm not wanting to break forum rules or anything but he did give me this email address in my quest to find the 96-97 trigger wheel ( doggykyle9@gmail.com ) . I reached out to this address, they responded and said they had the wheel, I paid using PayPal and they kept telling me that the payment didn't go through and played games trying to get my account info. I've reported them to PayPal. It was only $25 bucks for me and PayPal refunded. Be careful out there and watch out for dirtbag scammers and don't use family/friends when sending $, that's how they try and get you, lesson learned.
07-05-2023, 07:25 PM
WTB: 96-97 OEM Trigger Wheel
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