AlwaysBroken

They're available a few times a year and typically sell out during the first day. I think there was a shipment in January and also late March so far this year.

dleavitt

iTrader: (1)

They're baaaaaaaack! Got my order in.

shuiend

iTrader: (24)

I really want to close and delete the post until I have mine ordered. I don't want them to run out again before I get one.

dleavitt

iTrader: (1)

You won't hurt my feelings.

shuiend

iTrader: (24)

Everything is alright. I got one ordered.

theshdwconspracy

iTrader: (1)

You're a life saver! I've been checking pretty much daily since the last batch sold out, but I've been checking less often lately. Thanks!

Twibs415

iTrader: (8)

didnt need one so i ordered it anyways thanks guys

theshdwconspracy

iTrader: (1)

Mine showed up in the mail today, Cant wait to throw it on the car! Thanks!!!

Baker99miata

iTrader: (4)

I ordered mine right now, thanks guys

shuiend

iTrader: (24)

I am still waiting for mine to ship along with the install tool.

Morello

I haven't been able to find the answer to this anywhere else, but at what point is the stock damper not good enough? Stock internals (~220whp?), 7k rpm redline, is the stock damper up to it?

shuiend

iTrader: (24)

Stock damper should be find for those numbers. From what I understand the dampers were made to fix shattering oil pump gears if you reved higher then stock red line.

AlwaysBroken

I ran those power levels for over a year with stock damper, then another 10 or so years with forged internals and high boost (18 psi) with same stock damper. Redline was around 7k. Never any problems. This a mostly daily driven street car. If I did lots of track time in this car I'm sure if sing a different tune.

No one really knows for sure what exact level of power and abuse breaks oil pumps and for many years it wasn't even seen as a weak point.

Savington

iTrader: (31)

Anything that needs a built motor (250whp+ or 7400rpm+) needs an aftermarket damper.

Madjak

I don't... in fact I run a cut down stock damper to 8500+. The key is to bypass the factory oil pressure regulator and run an external peterson relief valve. It's not the crank deflection that kills oil pumps but the chattering and limit of flow within the stock regulator.

A lot if track cars in Aus are built this way. I'm sure a harmonic balancer still helps though.

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

Link to info about this? Stock oil pump gears?

Madjak

Sorry no link... but it's a fairly common practice any high reving track car and comes from several of the top engine builders down here.

And yes stock gears. I haven't heard of a failure when an external oil pressure relief is used.

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

What's the sample size? Lots of people have run high rpm with stock gears, and not everyone has issues.

Madjak

I'm not exactly sure. I would guess at least 10-12 high performance n/a cars built for circuit racing plus more from the high end club racers and 323 / astina crowd. I know of three top engine builders using this setup, all putting together serious power engines. Similar to your e-production series.

It may have started due to classing rules which are pretty stringent on engine mods. Talking to the guys running them it was definitely a known solution proved with testing and track time.

Savington

iTrader: (31)

My concern is less about the oil pump (we put billet pumps in everything) and more about the damper itself. I had two OEM dampers come off the front of the motor (broke all the factory high-strength M6 fasteners) at 7400rpm and 350whp. I've also seen those fasteners break on ~7800rpm motors at just 140whp. I prefer to overbuild, so my recommendation (250+ and/or 7400+) stands.

Interesting about the external relief valve, I like that.