Traction Control
08-20-2009, 11:15 AM
#1
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Traction Control
This thread over at the Adaptronic forums has piqued my interest.
traction and launch control
Following the link to Racelogic's site, there looks to be an easier solution than swapping uprights and hubs for those of us with non-ABS cars.
Wheel_Speed_Sensors
RaceLogic's retail price on a set of four hall effect wheelspeed sensors is $461.00.
Digikey has something similar for $28 a pop.
Digi-Key - 55075-00-02-A-ND (Hamlin Electronics Limited Partnership - 55075-00-02-A)
If that doesn't work, the DigiKey part number is 55075-00-02-A-ND
The Hamlin part is 12mm in diameter, while the RaceLogic is 6mm. This might make it a little more difficult to squeeze behind the brake rotor, but at 1/4 the price it might be worth it.
Think this will work?
traction and launch control
Following the link to Racelogic's site, there looks to be an easier solution than swapping uprights and hubs for those of us with non-ABS cars.
Wheel_Speed_Sensors
RaceLogic's retail price on a set of four hall effect wheelspeed sensors is $461.00.
Digikey has something similar for $28 a pop.
Digi-Key - 55075-00-02-A-ND (Hamlin Electronics Limited Partnership - 55075-00-02-A)
If that doesn't work, the DigiKey part number is 55075-00-02-A-ND
The Hamlin part is 12mm in diameter, while the RaceLogic is 6mm. This might make it a little more difficult to squeeze behind the brake rotor, but at 1/4 the price it might be worth it.
Think this will work?
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08-20-2009, 12:32 PM
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Yeah. Even if Racelogic would sell a sensor separately it'd still be 4X the cost.
The computer limits slip based on the signal from the MVSS (speedometer drive) and SVSS, which the Hall sensor will hopefully take care of. The slave vehicle speed sensor will have to go on a front wheel.
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08-20-2009, 02:47 PM
#7
What kind of sensor are you looking for? They appear to be a standard industrial part. I'm assuming they're a DC inductive proximity sensor. I've picked up the Cutler Hamer units off eBay pretty cheap. Volvo even used a Siemens unit for thier CAS.
Post specs if you have 'em, I'm sure we can find something that will work.
--Alex
Post specs if you have 'em, I'm sure we can find something that will work.
--Alex
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08-21-2009, 09:03 AM
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Is "I have absolutely no idea what I need" an acceptible answer? 
All I know is what was posted in the thread on the Adaptronic forums. A Hall effect sensor is easier to get up and running than a reluctor, so I'd imagine the sensor on RageLogic's site would be among the best. No idea on the specs of it though.
All I know is what was posted in the thread on the Adaptronic forums. A Hall effect sensor is easier to get up and running than a reluctor, so I'd imagine the sensor on RageLogic's site would be among the best. No idea on the specs of it though.
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08-21-2009, 11:52 AM
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you already know the speed of the rear wheels. that's measured by the MVSS or the sensor that drives the speedo in your car now.
what you need is a slave vehicle speed sensor (SVSS). it will measure the speed of one front wheel to tell you how fast the car is actually going.
think about this:
you're doing a burnout without traction control and the front wheels are going ZERO and the rear wheels are going, say, 30 mph. what is the speed of the car?
when the ECU sees a disparity between the sensors (actual speed vs. drive wheel speed) it says "oh shnap, i've got no traction holmes!" and cuts power until you DO have traction. ta da.
what you need is a slave vehicle speed sensor (SVSS). it will measure the speed of one front wheel to tell you how fast the car is actually going.
think about this:
you're doing a burnout without traction control and the front wheels are going ZERO and the rear wheels are going, say, 30 mph. what is the speed of the car?
when the ECU sees a disparity between the sensors (actual speed vs. drive wheel speed) it says "oh shnap, i've got no traction holmes!" and cuts power until you DO have traction. ta da.
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04-12-2012, 03:33 PM
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you already know the speed of the rear wheels. that's measured by the MVSS or the sensor that drives the speedo in your car now.
what you need is a slave vehicle speed sensor (SVSS). it will measure the speed of one front wheel to tell you how fast the car is actually going.
think about this:
you're doing a burnout without traction control and the front wheels are going ZERO and the rear wheels are going, say, 30 mph. what is the speed of the car?
when the ECU sees a disparity between the sensors (actual speed vs. drive wheel speed) it says "oh shnap, i've got no traction holmes!" and cuts power until you DO have traction. ta da.
what you need is a slave vehicle speed sensor (SVSS). it will measure the speed of one front wheel to tell you how fast the car is actually going.
think about this:
you're doing a burnout without traction control and the front wheels are going ZERO and the rear wheels are going, say, 30 mph. what is the speed of the car?
when the ECU sees a disparity between the sensors (actual speed vs. drive wheel speed) it says "oh shnap, i've got no traction holmes!" and cuts power until you DO have traction. ta da.
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04-12-2012, 05:21 PM
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I suspect there's a tuneable amount of slip allowance in most systems so you can run a single wheel road speed sensor but I haven't played.
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05-06-2012, 02:26 PM
#16
There is a method to add the capability for two extra inputs on the 420c it involves some work on the internal guts of the ecu, soldering a couple of wires to pins on the cpu I was told. I don't know exactly what is done though as I gave mine to the adaptronic importer here in the UK to do the work. It cost me a couple of hours labour.
This will allow me to have two mvss and two svss sensors. As the UK importer knows what to do I'm sure adaptronic HQ know too.
This will allow me to have two mvss and two svss sensors. As the UK importer knows what to do I'm sure adaptronic HQ know too.
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07-20-2013, 05:38 PM
#18
Just to add to this I recently got some simple circuits made up to convert the analogue signal from the stock abs sensors to a digital one for the adaptronic to use. I was unsure if they would work but they were cheap so it was an acceptable risk. They work fine.
As I have the earlier 'red' Adaptronic I had to get it modified for two extra inputs at a cost of about $60 and the convertor circuits cost about $30. The 'black' 420 already has 4 inputs so wouldn't need that work. We tapped into the abs wiring at the plug into the hydraulic unit, attached the circuits and ran lines from them to the ECU. abs still works with no dash light being displayed showing an error.
Obviously this saves buying and fitting separate sensors. My car is an '04.
As I have the earlier 'red' Adaptronic I had to get it modified for two extra inputs at a cost of about $60 and the convertor circuits cost about $30. The 'black' 420 already has 4 inputs so wouldn't need that work. We tapped into the abs wiring at the plug into the hydraulic unit, attached the circuits and ran lines from them to the ECU. abs still works with no dash light being displayed showing an error.
Obviously this saves buying and fitting separate sensors. My car is an '04.
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