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Old 12-18-2007, 04:07 PM   #1
Default BEGi Rear Thermostat, Coolant Re-Route  
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Finally!!

The system pictured here:
http://www.bellengineering.net/Pages/intheshop.html

Includes:
Fittings
Upper Radiator Hose Tee
Hose Clamps
Thermostat

The First 10 kits are 20% off @ $110.00. Prices after that will be $139.50.

Please call or e-mail to order the system.
Thanks,
Stephanie
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Old 12-18-2007, 04:42 PM   #2
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what's the upcharge to include that with a turbo kit?
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Old 12-18-2007, 04:44 PM   #3
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Ask Corky if he wants to hire another enigneer. I can weld and can machine. I also make one hell of a sauce
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Old 12-18-2007, 04:52 PM   #4
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Where are you putting the Thermostat? In the rear or Front? Why did you guys not elect to remove the front water entry all together?
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Old 12-18-2007, 05:06 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kyle242gt View Post
what's the upcharge to include that with a turbo kit?
$100.00 if you one of the remaining 9.

$129.50 afterwards
Stephanie
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Old 12-18-2007, 05:07 PM   #6
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Originally Posted by jonnybravo View Post
Where are you putting the Thermostat? In the rear or Front?
Thermostat is moved to the rear.

Quote:
Why did you guys not elect to remove the front water entry all together?
We probaly could. I will ask.
Stephanie
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Old 12-18-2007, 05:15 PM   #7
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It looks as though you have eliminated the heater core. If so, how are you blocking the water return to the manifold?

On start-up, until the thermostat opens, how is the water flowing to the rear?

Where is the thermostat that feeds the ECU mounted on a 1.6?
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Old 12-18-2007, 06:21 PM   #8
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Stephanie, I'll send you an email tomorrow. I want one of the first 10. Ok to pay via paypal?

Regards,

Rafa
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Old 12-18-2007, 06:39 PM   #9
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It looks as though you have eliminated the heater core. If so, how are you blocking the water return to the manifold?

On start-up, until the thermostat opens, how is the water flowing to the rear?

Where is the thermostat that feeds the ECU mounted on a 1.6?
From the looks of it, the rear stock housing is used so the heater is still there. Only problem I see is if the water flows in before the thermostat which it looks like...Also, if the front housing is retained, should there be a thermostat in both locations?? Hmmm....I dunno.
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Old 12-18-2007, 06:48 PM   #10
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I thought the whole point of the coolant reroute was to eliminate the front waterneck entirely.

And you have choices as to keeping the heatercore or not.

And going hotside or coldside on the return?

Correct me if I am mistaken.

I fail to see how this corrects the recirculation of hot coolant issue in the miata block.

BEGi know their stuff from what I have seen/read/heard, so I am sure I am missing something here.
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Old 12-18-2007, 08:08 PM   #11
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I'm in. I might run to san antonio this weekend...maybe next.
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Old 12-19-2007, 08:19 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Loki047 View Post
Ask Corky if he wants to hire another enigneer. I can weld and can machine. I also make one hell of a sauce
Yeah same here. I hate the cold weather. Hire me too.
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Old 12-19-2007, 09:03 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by olderguy View Post
It looks as though you have eliminated the heater core. If so, how are you blocking the water return to the manifold?

On start-up, until the thermostat opens, how is the water flowing to the rear?

Where is the thermostat that feeds the ECU mounted on a 1.6?


+1 for these answers, but i assume they go into the cover (not pictured)


I second a block off plate on the oem waterneck with a bung for the thermoswitch. should shave about $5 off the top.

anyone third?


With that option available this reroute will go on my car this spring.
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Old 12-19-2007, 09:06 AM   #14
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+3
Will it work on all NA and NB motors? Lastly, is anything missing from the kit to accomplish the re-reoute, or is this a complete solution? IE the heater hose, if it's not included, do you have a source. Thanks
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Old 12-19-2007, 11:41 AM   #15
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According to Corky,

The Thermostat can be in the front and/or the back. Traditionally, people move the thermostat to the back to force the flow from front to rear.

Quote:
Why did you guys not elect to remove the front water entry all together?
You can eliminate it if you prefer. We choose to leave it so that there is more flow thru the front and back.

Quote:
It looks as though you have eliminated the heater core. If so, how are you blocking the water return to the manifold?
We have not bypass the heater core. The stock plumbing is still intact, we just put a spacer under it that will feed water to the radiator.

Quote:
On start-up, until the thermostat opens, how is the water flowing to the rear?
One thermostat will open before the other. The water flowing will exit by the thermostat that opens first. It would probably help to put a lower temp rated thermostat in the rear so that one is open above that temp rating. And the second one will open when the temp rises 10 degrees above the rear setting. ie. two thermostats, use one 180, and one 190 degree.

Quote:
Where is the thermostat that feeds the ECU mounted on a 1.6?
We do not change that one. It stays in the stock location.

Quote:
I fail to see how this corrects the recirculation of hot coolant issue in the miata block.
We are allowing some the water to exit at the rear. Therefore some of the flow will be increased. You could close off the front, if you so choose. That would force all flow to the rear.

Quote:
I second a block off plate on the oem waterneck with a bung for the thermoswitch.
We could make a block off plate, and even a second one with a threaded bung for turbo applications. We will have to mock it up.

Quote:
Will it work on all NA and NB motors?
Right now it is designed to fit a NA 1994-1997. And a NB 1999-2004.

Quote:
Lastly, is anything missing from the kit to accomplish the reroute, or is this a complete solution? IE the heater hose, if it's not included, do you have a source.
Everything is included. Heater hose, clamps, spacer in the rear, etc.. We will work on the block off plate. If there is something that you need that we do not have, I will do my best to provide you with a source.

Hope that helps!
Stephanie
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Old 12-19-2007, 12:19 PM   #16
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Thanks, that clears it up for me.
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Old 12-19-2007, 12:25 PM   #17
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O2 Signal Conditioner appears on the first referenced page. You might want to look at the cheap knock-offs first


http://www.miataturbo.net/forum/showthread.php?t=7987
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Old 12-19-2007, 12:27 PM   #18
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How massive a pain in the *** will this be to install on an engine that is still in the car?
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Old 12-19-2007, 12:35 PM   #19
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How massive a pain in the *** will this be to install on an engine that is still in the car?
Very easy if you are in the middle of a clutch replacement
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Old 12-19-2007, 09:50 PM   #20
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with cas and coil out of the way you'll have much appreciated room too.
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Old 12-19-2007, 09:50 PM
 
 
 
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