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Old 12-21-2015, 06:27 PM   #21
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I have no idea. Is it possible to have the CAS 180* out? I thought it was just because of the stupid light flywheel in the car now. I also don't have the front mount hooked up. I also didn't have my laptop on me to change any settings. I'm still waiting to send in my injectors for cleaning and flow match before I drive the car.
What's stupid light? I have a fidanza (lightest 1.8 available) and it sounds normal, just revs faster.

Check spark/fuel with ouput test mode.
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Old 12-21-2015, 06:32 PM   #22
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In the video the car was idling around around 200-400 rpm. It would hardly register on my gauge cluster. I honestly don't think anything is wrong with the the car. That was just what it sounds like with 1 bolt in the downpipe and low idle. The solid mounts are going to be ridiculous though, gonna hold out for some used AWRs or something.

The flywheel is 9.5lbs.
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Old 12-21-2015, 06:35 PM   #23
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In the video the car was idling around around 200-400 rpm. It would hardly register on my gauge cluster. I honestly don't think anything is wrong with the the car. That was just what it sounds like with 1 bolt in the downpipe and low idle. The solid mounts are going to be ridiculous though, gonna hold out for some used AWRs or something.

The flywheel is 9.5lbs.
Didn't realize it's that low. Makes sense.

That will be fun. I think mine is 8.3 lbs. Will be for sale soon though.
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Old 12-22-2015, 04:36 PM   #24
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Didn't realize it's that low. Makes sense.

That will be fun. I think mine is 8.3 lbs. Will be for sale soon though.
Christ, that is light! Do you hate it or are you moving to a clutch that isn't supported by it?
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Old 12-22-2015, 04:43 PM   #25
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Love it. Going twin disc
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Old 12-22-2015, 05:07 PM   #26
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Weir Performance - Solid Pinion Spacer Kits

First link google popped up.

I know Leafy set up his diff himself.

Getting the right pattern is heavily dependent on pinion depth. Thats why your pattern was so far towards the toe. Backlash just moves it towards/away from the root.
Ah ****, I just dropped my diff off at the trans shop. Is there any benefit or reason why the stock distance piece is inferior to a solid pinion spacer kit? I mean, I'm not going to do hard launches or don't really plan on drag racing (as I'm scared for my transmission already).

Should I have invested in this before handing off an OSGiken to the builder?
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Old 12-22-2015, 10:02 PM   #27
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In theory the stock piece can smoosh from the thrust load on the pinion. I dont know of anyone who's specifically autopsied a diff failure that hard and posted about it, but from looking briefly at some 1.6 failures that looks like a contributing factor.
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Old 01-31-2016, 11:55 AM   #28
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So got the car running pretty good on wastegate pressure. Going to the 460CC injectors has been somewhat a pain. The idle was fine but after 180 degrees on the coolant the pulse width was set incorrectly so the car would stall. It did that to me right in a super busy intersection.

I have also noticed that VEAL does not play well for my idle. I have to lock the cells or it will put my VE so low that the car won't start back up again. Warm up Enrichment I still have to play with as well since the car just starts dumping fuel on a hot start.

Still, logs look alright and once I got my Time based EAE going tip-in got much better. Still some fine tuning left.




Think I am going to try a center exit exhaust on the car.



I also mounted my Kirkey to the floor. Short video of how I did it. Overall content with it, but it needs some adjustment. I think a quick release would make live easier with the seat mounted the way it is.





Manual boost controller suck...
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Old 01-31-2016, 12:28 PM   #29
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Good to see that turbo living again!

Car seems really well though out. Little things like that distribution block you made will make your life so much easier in the future.
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Old 01-31-2016, 04:10 PM   #30
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Don't use veal for idle. It will do weird things
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Old 01-31-2016, 07:34 PM   #31
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Good to see that turbo living again!

Car seems really well though out. Little things like that distribution block you made will make your life so much easier in the future.
Thanks for the compliment. It's been a really fun project in my free time.

I got some soot around the exhaust manifold (between the head and manifold to be more specific) and I am not sure if I should try another gasket or to use some high temp cooper based RTV. I feel like the flange is just not super flat anymore, which was to be expected, but what did you use when the kit was on your car? Super happy with the turbo overall. Even on the little 1.6L it feels like I will have no more excuses being a second off the top guys this season, but tires are going to be used at a quicker rate for sure.


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Don't use veal for idle. It will do weird things
Once I figured out how to lock the cells things got easier. VEAL has been a great tool for the other stuff though. I watched all those Megameet videos and they do a great job explaining MS2/3 to you. Do you have anymore literature or better yet subscribe to anyone on YT that covers it. I've already watched
which really helped a lot, but I would love more info on open-loop, EAE, WUE, ect...
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Old 02-10-2016, 08:02 PM   #32
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Ready to trash this MBC.



I just need to find out how to wire it in on my DIYPNP. I thought I needed the mod kit for some reason but the microsquirt on my MS board seems to take care of it, doh.
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Old 02-10-2016, 10:34 PM   #33
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Awesome build, really like the Rx7 clutch diff idea.
Any reason you went that route rather then the torsen?
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Old 02-11-2016, 07:27 AM   #34
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Mostly cost and availability. I've only got $275 in this diff and just a Torsen chunk goes for around $500. I need to get in and shim the clutches for more preload, it's a bit weak factory if I'm honest.
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Old 02-16-2016, 06:06 PM   #35
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Electronic Boost Controller in and working pretty well. I have it hooked to a switch in the car that will let me stop a constant 12v supply to the valve and open it to just run wastegate pressure. With the EBC working I get a pretty solid 12-13 psi pull that brings the power to a much more linear usage. It's a nice gradual pull which really lends itself to autocross.

I made a video of the install, how I did it, some footage of the install and a log of 2-4th gear pull. Really happy with this modification and I think every car should have it.

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Old 02-16-2016, 10:36 PM   #36
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Didn't watch the vid but typically you wanna interrupt the signal line (ground), not the 12v. Otherwise you'd want to run an inline fuse or relay to prevent the switch from frying things.
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Old 02-17-2016, 12:38 AM   #37
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Interesting, I thought that was for high current stuff. I used the blue power plug in the engine bay which goes through the fuse box so I assumed it would be fine.
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Old 02-17-2016, 12:40 AM   #38
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It's just good practice. You switch ground, not power.
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Old 02-17-2016, 08:06 AM   #39
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Good to know. Future modifications will be ground switched. Thanks dudes.
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Old 02-17-2016, 03:20 PM
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Old 02-17-2016, 03:20 PM   #40
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Yeah that's what most use for the timing light. If you're really JDM you'll have a tiny cap that clips over it.

For the record switching 12v is fine, but too much on/off might blow the switch or fuse, which will really only leave you on waste gate, this isn't your fuel pump or anything.
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