I'm not denying it would have fixed the problem without warping the throttle plate AND would have also locked the screws in place. But I'm unsure of the tape's ability to resist the massive velocity of passing air given my 50% success ratio with duct tape (and most other tools). And though I have managed to send throttle body screws through an engine, and then complete another race on that same engine- I don't expect to be that fortunate if the tape releases and enters a runner, or further. I suspect it's sticky enough to glue my piston to the cylinder head and bend a valve, or worse snap a rod. That said, I respect the widely accepted use of duct tape in both automotive and aeronautical applications. I just don't have confidence in my ability to use at such an advanced level.
Got the new eBay throttle body. The screws are hollow tipped and crimped to keep them from backing out. Measuring showed the plate to be same size as my older model Ford throttle body with idle valve attached. So I put a point punch and some light tapping to the ends of the hollow screws and rounded them. They backed right out with a philips head screwdriver. Flat plate swapped right in to my current TB without any clearance issues. Start the car up and the TB dropped my idle to 300rpm.
I developed an oil leak at the front of the engine that I thought was a main seal. Went through and checked the torque on the oil pan bolts. Two were not very tight- one on the exhaust side, and another on the intake side but screwing into the oil pump. When I tried to tighten the oil pump bolt it never got any tighter, just spun snugly. Tried another bolt and the same thing. Fortunately the bolt comes through the oil pump flange and now has a nut on top to seal the pan. Lucky me.
The other issue I've been dealing with is a serious delay in startup oil pressure. I'm using the same sender that's been in the FE3- and the same gauge that was on the car- both working prior. I've doubled checked the oil cooler setup, including sandwich plate, the oil filter and moved on to the sender. I've been using the large hex end on the housing to install/remove the sender with delicate hands and it's worked so far. But this time I couldn't get it to back out- instead the housing pinches that anchor it to the base opened up and the housing started to rotate.
Of course I made a few rotations on the housing before I suspected something was up. Tried to get to the 17mm hex on the cast base, but it's on a boss that's in a recessed area of the FE block. I can get a crows-foot on it, but can't rotate it enough to reorient the crows-foot to repeat.
I think my only option to replace it (without pulling the engine) is to destroy it so I can get to the cast base and back it out. Before making that move, I decided to plug it back in and try it one more time. This is the result after sitting for 45-60 minutes:
Built a lambda and timing table and went for a drive on a rough VE table. Now have a log and retuned VE. Need to do more driving.
I have a horrendous vibration/noise in high vacuum from the drive line. Looks like I made my oil pan sump a little too long and it's contacting the bell housing/gasket. I'll have to drop the pan to fix that - so I'll change the oil sender then.
Rather than addressing an oil pan leak, excessive throwout bearing noise, a whacked out oil pressure sender and some PPF adjustments, I decided to do some driving and tuning. I feel better now. I've been driving and tuning on straight wastegate at 150kpa/7psi. Spool sucks and it does not appear to be leaks pre-wastegate/turbo. I can't see any evidence of it and the IAT doesn't indicate any excessive turbo duty. At this point I'll either disconnect the signal hose to see if the wastegate is cracking and leaking early OR hook up the EBC and see if the spool changes.
Tuned my idle after replacing the bad idle valve that came on my Ford TB. Turns out the TB/idle valve flanges are the same across years/models of Fords, so I just pulled a spare and adopted the connector.
Have also been working on throttle tip-in.
Got to use my Eastwood racheting bit driver for something other than the Benz's blind AFM potentiometer philips head screws.
Swapped out the top oil cooler line fitting from a cast 90° to a tube 45°. Didn't really notice any oil pressure changes, though it's claimed to be a 5psi improvement. Maybe at high rpm?
Installed some QA1 7HT-250 (7" High Travel 250#) springs on the rear.
"Fixed" the stripped plastic mount threads on my cheap Ion Air action cam. Stainless steel zip ties FTW.