93' Miata stolen and flipped build thread
#441
Hmmm. Maybe it's only for an original purchaser? I've never heard of BG being like that before.
Obviously, BG has nice padding and covers that custom fit their bars. If you are just after padding material, most of the race equipment sites have it . . . SafeRacer, UltraShield, etc.
Obviously, BG has nice padding and covers that custom fit their bars. If you are just after padding material, most of the race equipment sites have it . . . SafeRacer, UltraShield, etc.
I'll probably just get the custom fit padding from BG, less work that way.
#447
So considering my OCD nature I just randomly(unfortunately) came across a build thread where the fellow replaced all his bolts with new shiny bolts.
What is the easiest, cheapest solution to clean your bolts? Only reason I ask is I just realized the heads of all the bolts are painted white and most are covered in 20 years of nasty. I know, I know, ignore it you say, install it and get over it you say....well, I can't!
I'm considering using a tupperware tub and sectioning it off in little boxes and emptying all the labelled bags I have with bolts into it and letting it soak in a mixture of lime-away/purple power/ aircraft stripper. I'll have to see if any of those chemicals are on the no-no list to mix(deadly fumes) but I believe this would be sufficient enough to clean them all correct?
My worries after doing that is stripping the rust-inhibiting coating off the bolts though.
Thoughts? I am pretty OCD, but wire wheeling every god damn bolt makes me want to cry at the thought.
What is the easiest, cheapest solution to clean your bolts? Only reason I ask is I just realized the heads of all the bolts are painted white and most are covered in 20 years of nasty. I know, I know, ignore it you say, install it and get over it you say....well, I can't!
I'm considering using a tupperware tub and sectioning it off in little boxes and emptying all the labelled bags I have with bolts into it and letting it soak in a mixture of lime-away/purple power/ aircraft stripper. I'll have to see if any of those chemicals are on the no-no list to mix(deadly fumes) but I believe this would be sufficient enough to clean them all correct?
My worries after doing that is stripping the rust-inhibiting coating off the bolts though.
Thoughts? I am pretty OCD, but wire wheeling every god damn bolt makes me want to cry at the thought.
#451
This is one area where I think you need to back-off.
Give the connectors a good cleaning with diesel, parts cleaner, or something else that leaves an oily residue. Avoid anything stronger, including wire wheels -- you do not want to strip the black oxide, zinc, cadmium or other coatings that Mazda thoughtfully applied.
If there are any bolts that are visible and will really drive you nuts, they are all available new. 100point restorations usually replace all fasteners -- so if you want to be the first Miata at Pebble Beach, that's what you should do.
BTW, I suspect you would make a fine showing at Pebble Beach.
Give the connectors a good cleaning with diesel, parts cleaner, or something else that leaves an oily residue. Avoid anything stronger, including wire wheels -- you do not want to strip the black oxide, zinc, cadmium or other coatings that Mazda thoughtfully applied.
If there are any bolts that are visible and will really drive you nuts, they are all available new. 100point restorations usually replace all fasteners -- so if you want to be the first Miata at Pebble Beach, that's what you should do.
BTW, I suspect you would make a fine showing at Pebble Beach.
#452
This is one area where I think you need to back-off.
Give the connectors a good cleaning with diesel, parts cleaner, or something else that leaves an oily residue. Avoid anything stronger, including wire wheels -- you do not want to strip the black oxide, zinc, cadmium or other coatings that Mazda thoughtfully applied.
If there are any bolts that are visible and will really drive you nuts, they are all available new. 100point restorations usually replace all fasteners -- so if you want to be the first Miata at Pebble Beach, that's what you should do.
BTW, I suspect you would make a fine showing at Pebble Beach.
Give the connectors a good cleaning with diesel, parts cleaner, or something else that leaves an oily residue. Avoid anything stronger, including wire wheels -- you do not want to strip the black oxide, zinc, cadmium or other coatings that Mazda thoughtfully applied.
If there are any bolts that are visible and will really drive you nuts, they are all available new. 100point restorations usually replace all fasteners -- so if you want to be the first Miata at Pebble Beach, that's what you should do.
BTW, I suspect you would make a fine showing at Pebble Beach.
I don't think Pebble Beach would give it a second thought! But my own Pebble Beach in my head would appreciate the hard work.
Most people probably think with all this hard work in cleaning and painting and restoring that it is going to be a garage queen type car and I won't drive it hard. I only care about this type of stuff up until it is done. Then I'll drive the **** out of it, give it a quick wash and detail and not worry about it. It is the initial base-line work that is the most important, anything following should just be maintenance and general care for the things you own.
I called the paint shop today and since the car is so stripped down they said if I said yes, they would give me a heavy discount on painting the interior, engine bay, inner door panels, and trunk. After the price was given to me, I quickly said yes. It was over half as much as they originally quoted me, and they won't charge for extra labor as well.
So thank god for that. Last thing I wanted to do after getting the car back from painting this weekend was get everything covered in paint dust to paint the engine bay and interior.
I'm slowly learning that SOME things are OK to pay others to do. Especially considering that updates are going to be fairly intermittent in the coming weeks due to the Christmas season, busiest month of the year for me business wise.
#453
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This is one area where I think you need to back-off.
Give the connectors a good cleaning with diesel, parts cleaner, or something else that leaves an oily residue. Avoid anything stronger, including wire wheels -- you do not want to strip the black oxide, zinc, cadmium or other coatings that Mazda thoughtfully applied.
Give the connectors a good cleaning with diesel, parts cleaner, or something else that leaves an oily residue. Avoid anything stronger, including wire wheels -- you do not want to strip the black oxide, zinc, cadmium or other coatings that Mazda thoughtfully applied.
#455
So considering my OCD nature I just randomly(unfortunately) came across a build thread where the fellow replaced all his bolts with new shiny bolts.
What is the easiest, cheapest solution to clean your bolts? Only reason I ask is I just realized the heads of all the bolts are painted white and most are covered in 20 years of nasty. I know, I know, ignore it you say, install it and get over it you say....well, I can't!
I'm considering using a tupperware tub and sectioning it off in little boxes and emptying all the labelled bags I have with bolts into it and letting it soak in a mixture of lime-away/purple power/ aircraft stripper. I'll have to see if any of those chemicals are on the no-no list to mix(deadly fumes) but I believe this would be sufficient enough to clean them all correct?
My worries after doing that is stripping the rust-inhibiting coating off the bolts though.
Thoughts? I am pretty OCD, but wire wheeling every god damn bolt makes me want to cry at the thought.
What is the easiest, cheapest solution to clean your bolts? Only reason I ask is I just realized the heads of all the bolts are painted white and most are covered in 20 years of nasty. I know, I know, ignore it you say, install it and get over it you say....well, I can't!
I'm considering using a tupperware tub and sectioning it off in little boxes and emptying all the labelled bags I have with bolts into it and letting it soak in a mixture of lime-away/purple power/ aircraft stripper. I'll have to see if any of those chemicals are on the no-no list to mix(deadly fumes) but I believe this would be sufficient enough to clean them all correct?
My worries after doing that is stripping the rust-inhibiting coating off the bolts though.
Thoughts? I am pretty OCD, but wire wheeling every god damn bolt makes me want to cry at the thought.
Send them all off to a zinc plater. They'll strip and re-finish them all in a nice pimpy gold zinc coating. It's surprisingly affordable.