93' Miata stolen and flipped build thread
#461
This
I think I'm just going to soak it in a cleaner over a couple days while I cant work on the car. I'm pretty good at making pretty potent cleaning combos. If all else fails I'll ship the bolts to a plater if I get really insane, but I think I'll be able to control my OCD to just cleaning them well.
#469
Cpt. Slow
iTrader: (25)
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Oregon City, OR
Posts: 14,201
Total Cats: 1,136
Does that price include sandblasting? Would of been a great alternative for me when I restored my bike. Instead I went to Ace about 5 or 6 times, dropping somewhere between $20 and $60 each time in SS allen head hardware.
#470
I wish i could just buy a gigantic grab bag of Mazda bolts for future projects. Should be easy... they really only use about 3 different bolts, just in different lengths.
#471
1. Buy shitty crashed/rusty/non-running miata (or whatever)
2. Part out everything valuable
3. Keep all the hardware
4. ???
5. Profit
(PS I did basically this same thing with my old RX7 and now have an ample supply of high grade OEM bolts/nuts in all sorts of sizes)
#473
Cpt. Slow
iTrader: (25)
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Oregon City, OR
Posts: 14,201
Total Cats: 1,136
I have a confession. Every time I go to a pick-n-pull, I generally leave with a pound or two of hardware. Especially if they don't inspect my tool bag. One time they did and they didn't even care.
I figure I'm stealing all of $.02 of scrap metal value. Or it'll end up sitting in the gravel.
I figure I'm stealing all of $.02 of scrap metal value. Or it'll end up sitting in the gravel.
#474
Decided to come down and work on the car tonight. Couldn't stand being in my store any longer and needed a break.
Replaced the Upper Control Arm boots. I took some detailed photos in case anyone does it.
Item number for the boots is: SEAL, DUST (NA01-34-548)
Use a dry chisel with the angle side facing the control arm and lightly tap it with a rubber mallet slowly going around the bushing so that it evenly goes off the control arm.
I used an old seal from my transmission and it fit perfectly over the metal retaining part of the boot. You don't have to do this it just ensured I didn't damage it, and it gave me a better fit with the PVC Pipe.
Clean out the old grease from the joint and seal surface, and fill with your favorite grease, which for me is Amsoil Dominator Synthetic Grease.
Fill the new boot with grease, put on the seal(if you'd like), and find a pvc pipe that fits perfectly on the boot.
Position the boot onto the ball joint and with a rubber mallet lightly tap on the pvc pipe to get the extremely tight boot onto the ball joint. Try not to flex the boot too much or you'll eject some of the grease.
Make sure the boot is flush on the mounting surface.
Booyah.
Also chemical bath of goodness. Apple cider vinegar, paint stripper, purple power, a little diesel additive. Put it in the backyard since even my respirator wouldn't filter the fumes out. Vinegar for the rust, and the rest to remove the gunk.
#478
Upper Control arms all done, that was a messy job. Checked all zerk fittings to insure that grease channel through the poly wasn't blocked. Put silver anti-seize on the interior of metal bushing to help with corrosion.
Brake booster all done. A couple runs on the back side but nothing to complain about.
Just waiting on the fabric to dry so I can refinish the seats in black.
Brake booster all done. A couple runs on the back side but nothing to complain about.
Just waiting on the fabric to dry so I can refinish the seats in black.
#480
Currently tearing apart my rear subframe. Holy **** the rust! The rear diff housing is a little scary. The rear hubs have so much rust I think I'd rather replace them not for superficiality but safety!
East coast is not kind to cars.