93' Miata stolen and flipped build thread
09-21-2014, 03:18 PM
#2944
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Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Cedar City, UT
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It really has turned out well. I have some thoughts on making it better, but it would be either too time consuming for the benefits of appearance, or too expensive(relays instead of fuses, vacuum block, pretty Moroso overflow tank).
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09-21-2014, 04:00 PM
#2945
It's gotta be the 40+mpg...at least for me. Gotta love the torque of a diesel. I love the Miata, but it would make me go broke in fill up costs if it was my daily. At least, with how I drive it! I get about 600 miles a tank on the Jetta. I'm lucky if I get 300 on the Miata.
) and it does alright on fuel consumption but it's no 600 to the tank and I have to put premium in it.My Miata is probably getting 180 miles to the tank....
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09-21-2014, 04:28 PM
#2946
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Luckily I'm going to be towing the Miata to events soon once I get my tow hitch welded onto the Jetta. No more pain and suffering in my lats from sitting in race seats for 2 hours straight.
That drive to MRLS and back destroyed my body. I love the seats...just not for long periods of time.
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09-21-2014, 04:33 PM
#2947
You realize that the EV14's should actually get BETTER mileage than those crappy ancient rc's you had right?
It always confuses me when people associate injector size with gas mileage, like its 1998.
Big congrats on making the switch. You'll enjoy them every day, and thank yourself for doing it.
It always confuses me when people associate injector size with gas mileage, like its 1998.
Big congrats on making the switch. You'll enjoy them every day, and thank yourself for doing it.
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09-21-2014, 04:36 PM
#2948
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I guess that old stigma was associated with injectors in my head. Makes sense after watching a comparison video of the RCs and the IDs. Glad I did it. Just want to go for a drive but I'm still waiting on the plastic to do my cowling project.
I won't get pulled over with no front bumper...right?
I won't get pulled over with no front bumper...right?
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09-21-2014, 08:54 PM
#2949
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over a 9 second window. Pretty flat afr but the engine rpm oscillation is being annoying. It isn't much, only 20 or so rpmdot, but you can still "hear it". Getting some oscillation in timing and pwm as well. Well, not a lot, but 1 degree and roughly 1% of pwm oscillation. My PWM table is flat in that area so I'm not sure what is causing it. Maybe too sensitive on my closed loop setting for these injectors?
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09-21-2014, 11:10 PM
#2950
over a 9 second window. Pretty flat afr but the engine rpm oscillation is being annoying. It isn't much, only 20 or so rpmdot, but you can still "hear it". Getting some oscillation in timing and pwm as well. Well, not a lot, but 1 degree and roughly 1% of pwm oscillation. My PWM table is flat in that area so I'm not sure what is causing it. Maybe too sensitive on my closed loop setting for these injectors?
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09-21-2014, 11:39 PM
#2951
It would help you if you kept spark advance flat in the idle area (or maybe bump it up a little a low RPM to provide an automatic correction).
I always got best idle quality with a richer mixture than that (maybe 13.5). What mixture gives highest vacuum with your IDs?
I always got best idle quality with a richer mixture than that (maybe 13.5). What mixture gives highest vacuum with your IDs?
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09-22-2014, 03:48 AM
#2953
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Very true. The odd thing is that I barely had to play with my idle VEAL to get close to stoich.
When I start autotuning, I believe I'm going to increase my VEAL map by about 5%. Just puttering around the neighborhood I saw it try to adjust +4 on certain cells. Don't want to enter boost lean to enrich later, just seems like a recipe for disaster....actually it not only seems but it would be.
Vlad, I think the rich fuel smell we were smelling at MRLS was due to that O-ring leak. I think it only was noticeable under high boost, and when I removed the FPR, it was the icing on the proverbial bad seal cake.
I haven't smelled fuel since I did the install so it makes me think that is the culprit. At least I hope it is. Messing with injectors and fuel pumps is not my cup of tea. When I was doing the fuel pump and was soldering in the new connectors, I think I used about 3 times as much heat shrink as I would normally. On that first key on, I was scared the car was going to blow up.
When I start autotuning, I believe I'm going to increase my VEAL map by about 5%. Just puttering around the neighborhood I saw it try to adjust +4 on certain cells. Don't want to enter boost lean to enrich later, just seems like a recipe for disaster....actually it not only seems but it would be.
Vlad, I think the rich fuel smell we were smelling at MRLS was due to that O-ring leak. I think it only was noticeable under high boost, and when I removed the FPR, it was the icing on the proverbial bad seal cake.
I haven't smelled fuel since I did the install so it makes me think that is the culprit. At least I hope it is. Messing with injectors and fuel pumps is not my cup of tea. When I was doing the fuel pump and was soldering in the new connectors, I think I used about 3 times as much heat shrink as I would normally. On that first key on, I was scared the car was going to blow up.
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09-22-2014, 08:40 AM
#2954
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Also, here is some crappy plastic welding pictures. The bastards on youtube make this look way too easy. I think, if I make pieces that people/me can see, I'll use a rubber dough scraper from work to smooth the still hot plastic more uniformly flat. Doesn't help that this was textured, and it would be hard to recreate the texture(sponge?).
Still, for a first attempt, and not having sanded it, not bad.
If you are wondering what it is, it's the cover I made for the headlight relays to help protect them from the elements a little better. I couldn't bend the corners without cutting it so I used a little filler rod on the inside joint, and then melted the exterior plastic to smooth the joint over. It is solid, I yanked on it pretty hard and it didn't budge. Should be great for the cowling project,especially since I don't care about how perfect it looks, just strength.
Looks worse in the photo than it is in real life, camera picks up a lot of light reflection that you don't see. *He says, rationalizing*
Still, for a first attempt, and not having sanded it, not bad.
If you are wondering what it is, it's the cover I made for the headlight relays to help protect them from the elements a little better. I couldn't bend the corners without cutting it so I used a little filler rod on the inside joint, and then melted the exterior plastic to smooth the joint over. It is solid, I yanked on it pretty hard and it didn't budge. Should be great for the cowling project,especially since I don't care about how perfect it looks, just strength.
Looks worse in the photo than it is in real life, camera picks up a lot of light reflection that you don't see. *He says, rationalizing*
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09-22-2014, 09:20 AM
#2955
Very true. The odd thing is that I barely had to play with my idle VEAL to get close to stoich.
When I start autotuning, I believe I'm going to increase my VEAL map by about 5%. Just puttering around the neighborhood I saw it try to adjust +4 on certain cells. Don't want to enter boost lean to enrich later, just seems like a recipe for disaster....actually it not only seems but it would be.
Vlad, I think the rich fuel smell we were smelling at MRLS was due to that O-ring leak. I think it only was noticeable under high boost, and when I removed the FPR, it was the icing on the proverbial bad seal cake.
I haven't smelled fuel since I did the install so it makes me think that is the culprit. At least I hope it is. Messing with injectors and fuel pumps is not my cup of tea. When I was doing the fuel pump and was soldering in the new connectors, I think I used about 3 times as much heat shrink as I would normally. On that first key on, I was scared the car was going to blow up.
When I start autotuning, I believe I'm going to increase my VEAL map by about 5%. Just puttering around the neighborhood I saw it try to adjust +4 on certain cells. Don't want to enter boost lean to enrich later, just seems like a recipe for disaster....actually it not only seems but it would be.
Vlad, I think the rich fuel smell we were smelling at MRLS was due to that O-ring leak. I think it only was noticeable under high boost, and when I removed the FPR, it was the icing on the proverbial bad seal cake.
I haven't smelled fuel since I did the install so it makes me think that is the culprit. At least I hope it is. Messing with injectors and fuel pumps is not my cup of tea. When I was doing the fuel pump and was soldering in the new connectors, I think I used about 3 times as much heat shrink as I would normally. On that first key on, I was scared the car was going to blow up.
Makes sense on the o-ring, since you obviously have no other leaks.
You might want to look into getting a AFPR in the future - cause bumping it up closer to 70 will get you better spray patterns/atomization and efficiency
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09-22-2014, 10:23 AM
#2956
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Yeah, not a bad strategy. You always want it to trim down.
Makes sense on the o-ring, since you obviously have no other leaks.
You might want to look into getting a AFPR in the future - cause bumping it up closer to 70 will get you better spray patterns/atomization and efficiency
Makes sense on the o-ring, since you obviously have no other leaks.
You might want to look into getting a AFPR in the future - cause bumping it up closer to 70 will get you better spray patterns/atomization and efficiency
Just one more damn thing to add to the list of inevitable purchases.
question on a fuel pressure gauge. Wouldn't it be easier(read cheaper) to wire in a sender to megasquirt rather than a physical gauge? Can't imagine there to be a lot of variance in fuel pressure with a AFPR, except in a "you idiot you are out of gas" moment.
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09-22-2014, 10:57 AM
#2958
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This may be a stupid question, but what exactly do you do with the stock FPR when you convert to an AFPR? Down the road I'm looking to do this, and I assume you will just remove it entirely.. but then what goes on the end of my fuel rail? I guess a custom fitting or something.
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09-22-2014, 11:43 AM
#2960
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Cool, thanks for the info.
So going back to my slight, tiny idle oscillation issue. Crazy how a tiny amount of timing change, makes things purr. I added 1/2 degree of timing advance and it is like buttah. It will only occasionally oscillate <10 rpms. It is beautiful.
I do need to stop driving it with my bumper off. I think I almost caused a couple accidents this morning due to people rubber necking. Sadly I bet people think, "that damn juvenile delinquent has been drifting his car and tore off his front bumper!" ala Turbofan style.
So going back to my slight, tiny idle oscillation issue. Crazy how a tiny amount of timing change, makes things purr. I added 1/2 degree of timing advance and it is like buttah. It will only occasionally oscillate <10 rpms. It is beautiful.
I do need to stop driving it with my bumper off. I think I almost caused a couple accidents this morning due to people rubber necking. Sadly I bet people think, "that damn juvenile delinquent has been drifting his car and tore off his front bumper!" ala Turbofan style.
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