Faelflora breaks his promise, time to part out car. GIT THE SAWZALL!
02-21-2010, 11:23 AM
#64
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I greatly abused my 6 speed transmission when stock and then at 200whp levels and it has held up just fine! If it dies over 400whp then I'll get a mazdaspeed miata transmission. The one in my girlfriend's car shifts superbly.
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02-28-2010, 12:40 AM
#65
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MOTHERFUCKIGN ******* ****
Solomiata : Transmission : Ring and pinion tooth counts
40 TEETH ASSFUCKSHIT
Solomiata : Transmission : Ring and pinion tooth counts
40 TEETH ASSFUCKSHIT
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03-04-2010, 09:30 AM
#76
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Wrenching is both pretty easy and pretty hard. I've never really worked on anything mechanical before so I don't know a lot of tricks and don't have the mechanical "sensitivity" the more seasoned enthusiasts possesses. I mean, I've also done stuff like drive off without tightening my lugnuts many times, leaving the oil fill cap off, chasing "vacuum leaks" which were caused by my throttle being improperly adjusted and hanging open etc..
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04-07-2010, 11:05 PM
#77
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OK Updates time. No pics yet.
- I returned the 3.9 r&p and got a correct 3.6 r&p. I still need the input flange though.
- The motor is in
- Had mucho problems with the motor at first. Couldn't get it started, blowing a lot of smoke, idling horribly etc etc etc. I had to lean out the FM provided base map by about 30% and it still idled like **** and ran like ****. The problem was fixed by adding fresh gas. Of course, the car had sat for a long time (4+) months?? so the gas was crappified from leaving the cap open.
- The engine was making a horrible clattering noise after swapping the gas and I thought it was motherfucking rod knock. Then I thought it was valves. Then the engine builder said it was some sheet metal thing. The sound persisted. Then the builder said it was my FM cam gear. He put the stock gear on and all clattering ceased. I don't know what the f is wrong with the fm gear, maybe he didn't know how to put it on but I don't think it's -that- hard. WTH but wutever my car engine is ok!
- I've put about 50 miles on it so far doing engine break in- rev to 6k, hit about 2-5lbs boost, snap off throttle, suck 30in gauge vacuum, coast down. No WOT yet. Gonna try to put more miles on before dyno day this saturday!
- Have been putting the miles on with VE based autotune with the hydra 2.6. The new VE autotune ******* rocks. Datalogs show AFRs very close to target! I am happy about it. It is much faster than the old 2.5 autotune and much more accurate. Jeremy did not overstate the tuning capabilities.
- No launches yet (of course) but the act 6 puck w/ FM flywheel w/ ACT XTREEEEME pressure plate is not that nasty at all! It is actually somewhat similar to the ACT XTREEEEEM organic disc. Maybe it has like half an inch less engagement range but it's not huge. It grabs nastily and I like it. The goal of my car mods is to have a brutal monster and I don't want no ***** clutch. I'm pretty confident that I will be able to launch like a **** and it will grab grab grab. Clutches IMO are actually a huge part of how driving a car feels. So far this clutch is TTU which is not bad for a $150 swap from my disc.
- I have a dyno day on saturday but I won't be running more than 5psi. Don't expect big numbers yet guys!
I have to do a few things before hitting high boost or even WG 15psi and they are:
- engine break in
- install plx gauge for oil pressure, oil temp, water temp monitoring
- get a plx o2 sensor for monitoring too (never thought I'd want a wideband readout but now after all this time and money I don't want to fu shi up)
- hydramist
For future upgrades I now am thinking of the
IGN-1A DIYAutotune coils, ID1000s on the short term, and on longer term
GT35 or PT equivalent.
- I returned the 3.9 r&p and got a correct 3.6 r&p. I still need the input flange though.
- The motor is in
- Had mucho problems with the motor at first. Couldn't get it started, blowing a lot of smoke, idling horribly etc etc etc. I had to lean out the FM provided base map by about 30% and it still idled like **** and ran like ****. The problem was fixed by adding fresh gas. Of course, the car had sat for a long time (4+) months?? so the gas was crappified from leaving the cap open.
- The engine was making a horrible clattering noise after swapping the gas and I thought it was motherfucking rod knock. Then I thought it was valves. Then the engine builder said it was some sheet metal thing. The sound persisted. Then the builder said it was my FM cam gear. He put the stock gear on and all clattering ceased. I don't know what the f is wrong with the fm gear, maybe he didn't know how to put it on but I don't think it's -that- hard. WTH but wutever my car engine is ok!
- I've put about 50 miles on it so far doing engine break in- rev to 6k, hit about 2-5lbs boost, snap off throttle, suck 30in gauge vacuum, coast down. No WOT yet. Gonna try to put more miles on before dyno day this saturday!
- Have been putting the miles on with VE based autotune with the hydra 2.6. The new VE autotune ******* rocks. Datalogs show AFRs very close to target! I am happy about it. It is much faster than the old 2.5 autotune and much more accurate. Jeremy did not overstate the tuning capabilities.
- No launches yet (of course) but the act 6 puck w/ FM flywheel w/ ACT XTREEEEME pressure plate is not that nasty at all! It is actually somewhat similar to the ACT XTREEEEEM organic disc. Maybe it has like half an inch less engagement range but it's not huge. It grabs nastily and I like it. The goal of my car mods is to have a brutal monster and I don't want no ***** clutch. I'm pretty confident that I will be able to launch like a **** and it will grab grab grab. Clutches IMO are actually a huge part of how driving a car feels. So far this clutch is TTU which is not bad for a $150 swap from my disc.
- I have a dyno day on saturday but I won't be running more than 5psi. Don't expect big numbers yet guys!
I have to do a few things before hitting high boost or even WG 15psi and they are:
- engine break in
- install plx gauge for oil pressure, oil temp, water temp monitoring
- get a plx o2 sensor for monitoring too (never thought I'd want a wideband readout but now after all this time and money I don't want to fu shi up)
- hydramist
For future upgrades I now am thinking of the
IGN-1A DIYAutotune coils, ID1000s on the short term, and on longer term
GT35 or PT equivalent.
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1
05-08-2010, 01:51 PM
#78
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Alllllllllrighhhht UPDATEALISCIOUS!!!!!
So I've done a few things. Here we go.
PLX gauge "install", water temp sensor, oil pressure sensor, gotta figure out where to put the oil temp sensor. Also picked up a PLX wideband sensor which is supposed to be able to integrate with the Hydra. F yah...
This thing is pretty neat. The alerts work. You can set multiple variable thresholds for alerts and then the screen flashes. It can display 4 sensor inputs at once. You can also have single sensor display, and also display graph-type readouts, analog gauge type etc. It's bad as hell.
Oh and don't be afraid of my superslick gauge mounting method. I tried to fit in a gauge holder but it just sucked because with the angles the steering wheel blocked the view or it looked like **** etc. Doublesided tape FTW. Let's see if it holds up in the hot sun.
FWIW the oil pressure I see at cold idle is about 50psi, hot idle around 9psi, cruise 30psi, boosting 10psi around um maybe 35psi at 4-5K RPM.
and
FWIW water temp after full warmup is between 190 and 200F. Running the begi "street" reroute.
So I've done a few things. Here we go.
PLX gauge "install", water temp sensor, oil pressure sensor, gotta figure out where to put the oil temp sensor. Also picked up a PLX wideband sensor which is supposed to be able to integrate with the Hydra. F yah...
This thing is pretty neat. The alerts work. You can set multiple variable thresholds for alerts and then the screen flashes. It can display 4 sensor inputs at once. You can also have single sensor display, and also display graph-type readouts, analog gauge type etc. It's bad as hell.
Oh and don't be afraid of my superslick gauge mounting method. I tried to fit in a gauge holder but it just sucked because with the angles the steering wheel blocked the view or it looked like **** etc. Doublesided tape FTW. Let's see if it holds up in the hot sun.
FWIW the oil pressure I see at cold idle is about 50psi, hot idle around 9psi, cruise 30psi, boosting 10psi around um maybe 35psi at 4-5K RPM.
and
FWIW water temp after full warmup is between 190 and 200F. Running the begi "street" reroute.
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05-08-2010, 02:01 PM
#79
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OK more engine awareness awesomeness:
That's the Knocklite XS. Obviously not hooked up. Gotta find the ******* tach signal. Argh. Also am still breaking the engine in-- not going past 5K and only running 10lbs o boost.
Yet another "gauge" adhesive based mounting method.
That's the Knocklite XS. Obviously not hooked up. Gotta find the ******* tach signal. Argh. Also am still breaking the engine in-- not going past 5K and only running 10lbs o boost.
Yet another "gauge" adhesive based mounting method.
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05-08-2010, 02:05 PM
#80
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So. Installing the rollbar was probably one of the more arduous things I've done to the car and that includes pulling the engine. In fact, I think if I did both over again, they would both take the same amount of time. Cutting the carpet was so much fun I thought I would post a picture of my excellent carpet cutting work:
Amazing.
Amazing.
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