Faeflora

iTrader: (2)

I need a catch can because there is oil all over my intake. I don't think I was exactly blowing quarts of oil through there at 9psi but at 30psi, it might get ridiculous. I got this madtyte carbonfiber yo catch can from ebay: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/UNIVE...Q5fAccessories

I actually just got it because it was fairly cheap and it was black.

It has no filler material in it so I will need to stuff it with something.

I have an 03 and it is the super luxury edition miata with cruise, ABS etc so my engine bay is about as crammed as an NB bay gets. I had to take out some of the emissions monitoring stuff to make room for the catch can. I do not have any kickass fabrication materials so I had to improvise for my mounting spot:



Can you see what it is mounted on? It's actually mounted onto the Tial BOV v band screw. And that **** works. Both are nice and secure. I am pleased. If I had $200 to spare I would get some badass AN stainless lines for the catch can but **** that. I am going to use silicone. I need to order more.

shuiend

iTrader: (24)

Hey do you want a 99 IM so you could compare the 2? I got a spare one laying around.

18psi

iTrader: (76)

Wait so you're planning to run 30psi on this thing?

Faeflora

iTrader: (2)

A few moments for some ruminations:

My engine bay is getting more and more complex. It is ridiculous. Right now, I literally have like 18 ******* sensor wires running from the engine bay to the cabin. 2x EGT, vacuum-x3 (need separate lines) , WI flow sensor, WI HSV, oil temp, oil pressure, water temp. I swear this car is getting more and more complex and has plunged off the logarithmic cliff. I am happy with the choices so far but it is getting wayyy further from stock.

This WI install has taken a -long- time. The instructions said budget 8 hours and I was like yah right but so far, I think I have about 10 hours into it. The system itself is very complex. It really has taken a lot of wiring.

Faeflora

iTrader: (2)

Sure. Bring it to the dyno day? If you have the upper and lower that would be great.

shuiend

iTrader: (24)

I got the whole thing still together. I ended up with a Begi Cast IM so I never actually used it. I think I might have a solenoid still to control vics if you want it. I will bring that and the connector for it to.

Faeflora

iTrader: (2)

My stupid little tagline "How much pzi? ALL OF IT" is actually serious. I want to tune with reasonable timing and as much boost as possible before knock. Then, I want to do the same thing with WI. 30psi will be falling pretty far into inefficiency for my turbo so hopefully the WI will counteract the high AITs effectively.

Realistically, I'm expecting that I will run out of fuel at twenty something psi. My fueling setup is super stock except for the Walbro 255hp and fuel rail. My guess is that I will run out of fuel in the low 400s. Next step will be an boost a pump or something like that: http://www.kennebell.net/accessories...boostapump.htm

Maybe I'll first try to increase the gauge of wire to the pump. We'll see.

18psi

iTrader: (76)

I think your IM and cams will max out well before your turbo or fuel system will.

Faeflora

iTrader: (2)

That would only apply if the motor was naturally aspirated.

Faeflora

iTrader: (2)

For anyone else doing WI into your IM, note that you will need a check valve.

This thing:

http://www.aquamist.co.uk/rescr/img-...lve/check.html

Ideally, you will need a checkvalve for each individual jet. The valve should be right up against the jet. Without it, vacuum can suck water from a hose and when you go WOT again, you'll have a brief period of time with no water. Ugh, $$$ expensive- like $20/valve.

fmowry

iTrader: (8)

Yep. 1000cc injectors and a 255 Walbro is enough. If he wants more "fuel" he should be running 50/50 meth. But I'd run that anyway if I was wasting my time with WI (and did). Why not benefit from the cooling and the octane?

Frank

Faeflora

iTrader: (2)

I don't have anywhere to store the meth. I am living in a high rise now.

I will be using Splash -25F fluid. It's about 40% methanol off the shelf from Target.

Frank, while you are on the line, know of a good place to get some AN lines and fittings in the area? I may have borked my fittings by overtightening them.

shlammed

iTrader: (8)

ps assuming your GT3071R is a rel garrett, you could still be in an efficient area at 30psi.

Faeflora

iTrader: (2)

Today was a long painful day.

I spent about 10 hours doing very little, mostly unfucking various problems I created. I got the car started up and idling absolutely horribly and immediately noticed a very loud whirring sound. Shutting the car down and walking around to the engine, I saw that my fuel soakemupem towel had gotten wrapped around my crank and A/C compressor. That took about an hour to unfuck- to get rid of the towel, the towel bits, reseat the belt, and tension it properly so it stopped screaming.

Then I had to redo my AIT sensor wiring which got ripped out.

Then I tried to start up the car again and had it idle miserably for a few seconds and die. I checked the fuel line fittings and the motherfucking AN line tee was leaking at all three AN lines. I took them off and the flares or whatever the **** those cone things are looked ok and the threads actually were not fucked up. I think I just cranked on them way too much. So I screwed em back onto the tee and did the whole hand tight plus 1/4ish turn thing. Still leaked. After ******* with various tightnesses for a while I finally got the **** to not leak. Those screw on fittings are absolute bullshit and I hate them. Also, the push lock AN fitting FM uses in their kit sucks dick. This is it:



The ****** is flimsy as **** and with a small tug, the plastic retaining center piece will come right out and you'll be spraying fuel all over your engine bay. I put the OEM retainer in there and it worked, nice and snug and secure. The OEM fitting as a whole is absolutely superior. I once saw this quick-disconnect fuel line thing which leaked no fuel when unplugged. That **** sounds good. When I **** with fuel stuff, I don't want to have to worry about **** getting fucked up from vibration etc. Frankly, FM's line design is crap.

After spending hours on the fuel bullshit, I wired up the boost controller and tied up all the wires under the dash. A future project is to rip out the previous owner's Viper car alarm installation. That **** is clutterfucking my wiring area.

Then I spent several hours trying to unfuck my PLX gauges. The oil pressure gauge stopped working in between trying to idle the car and wiring the boost controller and despite several hours redoing the stupid pins and connectors, I failed to make it work. I won't be that happy dynoing without an oil pressure gauge but **** it. Maybe I can make it work tomorrow. Note that I also hate crimping pins for stupid molex connectors- 1/8" pins that is. And also note that radio shack el cheapo soldering irons are pathetic and one should always work with a weller iron.

That's about it. Not much accomplished in a long day. Also, I ran the battery down because I left the trunk open.

Tomorrow the main goal is to get the car idling and driveable.

Faeflora

iTrader: (2)

I tied up all the wires and tidied up the interior. It looks pretty good now and I'm happy to see it looking like a regular car inside again instead of wire puke. I had to rewire a bunch of **** and self fusing silicone tape is so incredibly superior to electrical tape. It's everything electrical tape should be but isn't. My dumb oil pressure sensor is still not working. ************.

I had some battery woes but I put a full charge on it and it seems to be doing ok. Ish. The car hapily idles at 10.5v at the Hydra, and about 12v at the battery. Uggh. I think my alternator may be fucked but I am not sure.

So the car now idles ok. BUT it kind of sounds like **** when it is cold. My motor ******* squeaks. And then it taps. It goes squeak squeak squeak tap or something like that. What the ******* ****. I just changed the oil in it from dinosaur to rotella synth (jumping on the bandwagon) and now it is squeaking. It was not doing that before. WHAT THE **** ROTELLA??????

After it warms up, it sounds like a normal shitty miata engine. I kind of forget what a stock miata engine sounds like. At the dyno day I will have to compare sounds.

Time to try to go on a test drive around my parking garage and around the block and see if I can **** my fuel map into some semblance of driveability. Hopefully my worthless AN Tee fuel fitting will not leak and catch fire. I have to drive it like 80 miles to work and from there to the shop tomorrow for a the dyno tune and I am quite nervous. If this **** does not work and my motor ******* explodes or whatever, I am not sure what I will do. This hobby has become way too expensive and I do not think I will be putting thousands of dollars into another motor. I think I will probably put my old stock longblock back in and be happy at 250hp.

shuiend

iTrader: (24)

Welcome to my life.

Faeflora

iTrader: (2)

Here's an amazing video of my car idling. Hot. So no squeaking. I would have used my camera not cameraphone but that ******* thing broke too. While it was sitting in my car. I brought it upstairs and now it works again. :|

Faeflora

iTrader: (2)

Oh yah, I hooked up the knocklite today. I just soldered into the factory harness wires for tach and for the knock sensor. The knock sensor voltage readout in the Hydra was unaffected.

The knocklite works and it is so ******* bright I might have to mount it under my seat so it does not blind me. It is like a frikken HID in a projector. It's neato. Shift light and knock light. Whee

If only I had a running car to use it on.

neogenesis2004

iTrader: (12)

I listened to the video, sounded fine to me. That little squeak only happened when you closed the throttle plate. Sounded more like the BOV whining to me than anything else.

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

sounds fine to me.

god i love having a car that runs with minimal issues.