H3AVY to H3AVYER to...H3AV1EST P1G
#1321
google search shows me this:
12 Piece Screw Extractor Set
I dunno.
Vatozone shows something similar, for 4x the price:
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/acc...ier=99229_0_0_
12 Piece Screw Extractor Set
I dunno.
Vatozone shows something similar, for 4x the price:
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/acc...ier=99229_0_0_
#1322
Cpt. Slow
iTrader: (25)
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Oregon City, OR
Posts: 14,192
Total Cats: 1,136
The left hand drills are really helpful. The easier bolts will come out with just these, and save you the trouble and risk of using the extractor bits.
But if you ask me, the frozen in compressor housing bolts will NOT come out with an easy-out. You'll just snap the easy out. Mine needed to go to a machine shop, $75 later I had all my DP studs out.
Drill presses are nice, but you really need a super super rigid mill to drill into them.
Proceed with caution.
But if you ask me, the frozen in compressor housing bolts will NOT come out with an easy-out. You'll just snap the easy out. Mine needed to go to a machine shop, $75 later I had all my DP studs out.
Drill presses are nice, but you really need a super super rigid mill to drill into them.
Proceed with caution.
#1332
Senior Member
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Goleta, Southern California
Posts: 520
Total Cats: 27
+1 for left handed bits. I figure if I'm going to drill a broken off bolt/stud, I might as well take the chance it will work its self out. Rarely happens but hey, it's worth a try.
#1333
The nice thing with the reverse bits is if you use the right size and it doesn't work than the hole is ready for the easy out. The cheap HF one tends to snap. The square looking ones break less for me and are easier to get out when they do. Also sometimes when removing sticky bolts that bind up acualty tightening them a bit then lefty loosy again and it goes farther out. Odd I know, but works sometimes.
#1334
Elite Member
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Warrington/Birmingham
Posts: 2,642
Total Cats: 42
WD40 isn't really a very good penetrating spray. It's a water dispersant / light oil.
Use a proper penetrating spray, PlusGas has a good reputation in the UK. I'm sure it or something similar is available in the US.
Use a proper penetrating spray, PlusGas has a good reputation in the UK. I'm sure it or something similar is available in the US.
#1335
Thanks all.
Picked up the extractor bits and LHD drill bits yesterday. I'll stop by for some PB or penetrating oil or something much more than wd40 today.
I'm not sure how soon I'll finish cleaning/clocking both of them, or have time to take the ms3 to my friends to solder in that resistor, we started replacing the fencing in my back yard, its going to take at least a week to finish (we're putting in steel posts + vinyl fence sections for a custom, "will last literally forever" fence).
I keep going back and forth between my options and/or goals with this car: do I want insta-boost and the best response ever and go with the t25? or do I want much better top end with a minor sacrifice of the lowend and go with the 2560?
the long term plans include building the spare long block I have from my brother, and either running ALLOFIT on the 2560 or going "back to my roots" and picking up a 3071r
Short term though: I just want 200/200 for now.
Picked up the extractor bits and LHD drill bits yesterday. I'll stop by for some PB or penetrating oil or something much more than wd40 today.
I'm not sure how soon I'll finish cleaning/clocking both of them, or have time to take the ms3 to my friends to solder in that resistor, we started replacing the fencing in my back yard, its going to take at least a week to finish (we're putting in steel posts + vinyl fence sections for a custom, "will last literally forever" fence).
I keep going back and forth between my options and/or goals with this car: do I want insta-boost and the best response ever and go with the t25? or do I want much better top end with a minor sacrifice of the lowend and go with the 2560?
the long term plans include building the spare long block I have from my brother, and either running ALLOFIT on the 2560 or going "back to my roots" and picking up a 3071r
Short term though: I just want 200/200 for now.
Last edited by 18psi; 09-30-2014 at 09:31 AM.
#1336
Senior Member
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Edmonton, AB, Canada
Posts: 1,193
Total Cats: 29
Heat then apply penatrating oil, heat then penatrating oil, repeat again. Try to get the oil to wick down the threads.
I had one of the 4 flange bolts stuck. The above didn't help, wasn't sure what to do. What I did try was an impact air chisel and the pointy bit. Those things feel like they could puncture an M1 Abrams amour It slowly started turning as I hammered it. It was amazing. Hard part was to support the manifold/turbo because the bit wants to walk. That air hammer bit will gouge everything it touches so it's got to be held strong. From now on that's my method. Really needs 2 people but I'd never seen a frozen bolt yield so willingly. Basically it's the impact action doing it just like an impact wrench.
I had one of the 4 flange bolts stuck. The above didn't help, wasn't sure what to do. What I did try was an impact air chisel and the pointy bit. Those things feel like they could puncture an M1 Abrams amour It slowly started turning as I hammered it. It was amazing. Hard part was to support the manifold/turbo because the bit wants to walk. That air hammer bit will gouge everything it touches so it's got to be held strong. From now on that's my method. Really needs 2 people but I'd never seen a frozen bolt yield so willingly. Basically it's the impact action doing it just like an impact wrench.
#1337
Senior Member
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Meridian, Mississippi
Posts: 628
Total Cats: 44
If there is any part of the broken bolt / stud exposed, you can also try the "heat and cold" method. Heat up the flange and surrounding metal with a torch and then put ice on the stud. The heated flange expands, the stud contracts, and this can break the adhesion of the corrosion. Any exposed stud also gives option of tack welding a nut onto it, and trying again to get it out after KRoiling the **** out of it. KRoil penetrating oil is nothing short of amazing... and the price shows it!
Keith
Keith
#1339
Ok, so both turbo's are finally apart, for the win.
PB/WD40/etc didn't do nothing. These bolts were almost welded to the housings.
Butane torch/tapping with hammer made them laugh and say "that all you got?". lol
Drill bits also made the bolts just laugh in my face.
So in desperation, I call up my dad and go to his shop.
My dad is like "don't worry, I got this" and busts out this crazy looking thing:
Its something like 20x stronger than a butane torch. Gets the housings glowing with it. Then squirts WATER onto just the bolt. With a crazy loud hiss of defeat, the bolts give up and he man handles them out.
The one that was broken off, he puts a nut over, and welds it onto the stud from the inside of the nut. Then repeats above procedure. It also gives up.
TL;DR: my dad is a boss. got all of them off without any damage to the threads or anything else.
PB/WD40/etc didn't do nothing. These bolts were almost welded to the housings.
Butane torch/tapping with hammer made them laugh and say "that all you got?". lol
Drill bits also made the bolts just laugh in my face.
So in desperation, I call up my dad and go to his shop.
My dad is like "don't worry, I got this" and busts out this crazy looking thing:
Its something like 20x stronger than a butane torch. Gets the housings glowing with it. Then squirts WATER onto just the bolt. With a crazy loud hiss of defeat, the bolts give up and he man handles them out.
The one that was broken off, he puts a nut over, and welds it onto the stud from the inside of the nut. Then repeats above procedure. It also gives up.
TL;DR: my dad is a boss. got all of them off without any damage to the threads or anything else.