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Old 05-03-2015, 08:43 PM   #121
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So I just shaved the spring randomly, making the coils thinner, and got it to what I would call pretty spot on. The piston just barely appears to close, and when you tap the throttle you can see it close a little more. However, I am still getting a ton of compressor surge :( So I'm not really sure what this means yet. Might just have to take more off of the spring and see what happens? TBD.
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Old 05-04-2015, 03:07 AM   #122
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Or buy a non-crappy valve? lol
I LOVE my Turbosmart.
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Old 05-04-2015, 08:07 AM   #123
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And the Forge I bought works quite well. Even with a heavy spring, it pops right open with a little vaccum.
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Old 05-04-2015, 08:23 AM   #124
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I mean, it opens? I suspect just not fast enough. I will get video tomorrow. After the heat transfer final ends, at 3:00pm, EST. And maybe burnouts in front of the engineering building, followed by 2nd - 4th up main street using flatshift and shooting fireballs. Nah but really, this semester needs to hurry up and end.

(Seriously though. Flat shift is ridiculously loud. Spark-cut launch control seems tame now. I tested it just randomly a few days ago, like "oh, I used this with fuel cut last time. Wonder what spark cut is like... (copied my launch control setting of "retard to -9deg") Cue me driving to my rental house on the wrong side of town (Though it's columbia. Is there really a right side?), making an incredibly loud gunshot like noise. They looked less than enthused to turn around and see a skinny white guy in a girlyman car. Thought a brother was gunna get got.
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Old 05-16-2015, 12:51 PM   #125
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I wrote a novel here last night, and bumped the back button on my mouse. Turns out Chrome doesn't recover text in the quickreply box. So, I went to bed and will now attempt to reiterate what I was trying to say then.

My first track day is in 10 9 days at CMP, and I realized something I've been overlooking. My left front tire has about 3 nails in it (nothing particularly sticky anyway. 320TW BFG Comp2). The heads had already sheared off when I found them, so grabbing them from the top will be nearly impossible (to patch). It leaks ~2psi a week.

The way I see it, I have three options:

- Wing it. Likely a horrible idea.

- Dismount the tire and attempt to push the nails through with a center punch or grab them from the back with pliers, plug/patch/pray.

- Buy my new street tires, 205 rivals. If I ordered them this weekend they should get here in time. I just worry about chunking and destroying a new set of $500 street tires.

- Buy a set of 595RSRs and put them on my spare set of wheels. A $400 set of track only tires I'd use maybe twice a year really isn't in the budget right now though.

- My current winning plan (attn: aidandj): I have a set of RA1s and a set of SM6s. Both quite heat cycled, but have plenty of tread. I have a spare set of wheels, and access to 2 spares premounted I can take with me. I know first track day on R-comps is a touchy subject here, so I'm open to suggestions/advice.

Thoughts?
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Old 05-16-2015, 03:33 PM   #126
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You seem to perceive a large difference between the Rivals and the Federals. Why is that?

My impression is that both are equally suited to being street/track dual duty tires.

Also, I wouldn't worry about chunking rivals on your first track day
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Old 05-16-2015, 03:55 PM   #127
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Quote:
Originally Posted by turbofan View Post
You seem to perceive a large difference between the Rivals and the Federals. Why is that?

My impression is that both are equally suited to being street/track dual duty tires.

Also, I wouldn't worry about chunking rivals on your first track day
Federals are cheaper if I had to buy two sets :P

I predict lots of locking up the front left tire while braking at first.
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Old 05-16-2015, 05:36 PM   #128
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Thanks for the shoutout!!!

Regarding the first track day on R-comps? How's your decision making? Mine sucks, I never think before I do anything, and I'm pretty well known for ****** stuff up. If you are one of those people who is methodical and can start out slow, and stay below the limit all day you will be fine. My first track day on R-comps was a blast, spun out into the dirt though. My second track day on R-comps sucked, and is why I am back on street tires.

They will grip like hell and be fun. But don't push the limit and expect to learn anything.
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Old 05-17-2015, 05:13 PM   #129
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I ran the first track day in my miata (2nd one overall) with a nail in the right front. This was at Rockingham where they run three Nascar turns and then the infield. The tire held just fine, but every time I came around the banked turn at 100mph it would hit me that that tire could fail and cause me to smack the wall. CMP has lots of runoff area so I would be less concerned, but I would not try it on your first track day.

I have done track days on 200-320 tread wear tires and they didn't stick nearly as good as the NT-01's , but they did not disintegrate. They are much better suited for your first track day. My dad did 3 track days on Kumho MX years ago and they held up well. Way back when I had some issues with my track prepped car and ran my DD 1.8t jetta with crappy all seasons. They couldn't handle the heat and did have some minor chunking.

My sister in law did her first track day in their 99 with NT-01's and survived. She did spin 2-3 times. Again this was on CMP with spins on turn 8 and 14 with lots of room. On a tighter track I would be more concerned.

I just got rid of an old set of falkin azinis that would have been perfect for your first track day. Panic might have a set on something laying around, but more than likely Steve will only have R-comps laying around.

MAKE SURE YOUR BRAKES ARE UP TO IT!

I could tell you some stories about CMP and brakes for first track day experience!
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Old 05-17-2015, 09:54 PM   #130
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I think I'm just going to rock the r-comps. The nail would stress me out, and if it blows i'm SOL the rest of the day since I don't have a backup. With the rcomps I will have spares.

Brakes should be good, I'd like some opinions though. When I bought my front sport brakes, they came with one set of rotors, and two sets of pads. DTC-60 and HPS. The P/O said they just swapped pads the one time they used the DTC-60s. My question is: should I buy new blanks? Do some 100-40s on the interstate on the way there? Do nothing? I've never swapped pads like this before.

EDIT: Oh, and I have freshly flushed superblue. I do need to do some heat shielding there before the event though.
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Old 05-18-2015, 08:37 AM   #131
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I am pretty sure the DTC-60 can be bedded over almost any other compound. If you are worried, Steve at panic only charges $7 to skim the rotor so you will have a fresh surface to bed the DTC-60 on. I am planning on using DTC-60 on the same rotors that I run HP+ pads on. I havn't had a chance to try it yet so I can't give any opinions.
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Old 05-18-2015, 11:08 AM   #132
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I would never do a track day on a patched tire...or a tire that had any known issues.

Is balling up your car worth a dodgy tire?

Also...CMP is very hard on tires. I've seen a few sets of street tires chewed up in one weekend there.
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Old 05-18-2015, 12:10 PM   #133
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I would love to see some logged data of your car running CMP. I want to get an idea of what MAT gets up to. Looks like this weekend will only be in the mid 60's, but it will still be useful data.

What intercooler are you running? CX racing right?
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Old 05-24-2015, 05:43 PM   #134
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RA1s are mounted. Drove them on some twisty roads on the street to try and clean them up a bit, and they are way stickier than any of the other options I had. And no holes

DTC-60s swapped over, and they are loud and stop significantly faster than the HPSs.

Wrapped the first foot or so of the downpipe to protect the heater core hoses. Made a heat shield to protect the brake fluid reservoir.

Otherwise, she's ready to go!

I plan on logging GPS and MS, so hopefully I'll have some stats to post for you relte. Yeah, CXRacing intercooler and radiator. Monday is supposed to be up near 90 though.







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Old 05-25-2015, 10:29 PM   #135
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Had a great time at CMP today and learned a lot. I'll upload a video of my fastest lap later, RaceRender is a bitch to get everything sycned from three different sources. Though it was only a 2:03.26. Ran 6 20 minute sessions.

Relte, your log is uploading. My coolant temps got hot, and ~twice a session I had to take 30-40 seconds and chill out for a turn or two. Stayed above 215 F most of the time on track though, tapping 225-230 some. MAT seemed to stay between 110 and 130, 86-88 ambient.



I also cooked my brakes a wee bit. At least one of my rotors is warped, evident by lots of vibrations when braking on the way home. Grooved one of my rear rotors. All and all, minor casualties. DTC-60s stopped hard all day.

They look like they sat in a fire though.




Last edited by Schuyler; 05-27-2015 at 03:41 PM.
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Old 05-26-2015, 01:24 PM   #136
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Nice work. Otherwise faultless on track?

Replace brakes, or upgrade?
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Old 05-26-2015, 01:26 PM   #137
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Did the GPS work out?
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Old 05-26-2015, 01:29 PM   #138
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sparkybean View Post
Nice work. Otherwise faultless on track?

Replace brakes, or upgrade?
Probably just new blanks and resurfacing the pads.

Quote:
Originally Posted by aidandj View Post
Did the GPS work out?
Sure did. RaceChrono did not though. Probably just me using the app wrong, but I couldn't get it to work. I bought Harry's Lap Timer, love it, and won't look back. $20 was worth knowing my times.
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Old 05-26-2015, 01:32 PM   #139
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Racechrono can be a bit confusing to setup.
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Old 05-26-2015, 01:39 PM   #140
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aidandj View Post
Racechrono can be a bit confusing to setup.
Yeah. I started it, it asked for track and start/stop point, and then it sat on the timer page. Never started once I got on track though. The only thing I noticed with harry's lap timer is the timer seemed to keep running until I got out of Turn 1. So i'm not really sure what happens there. Using the GPS lap timer on the video, it seems to report a lap time that is like ~3sec faster.
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