ITT we discuss why not to turbo your daily bent rod
#22
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Didn't even mention the cutting edge weight saving techniques! Remove excess metal from those pesky flanges, and take out the compressor wheel! Turbo was included free for test fitting purposes with my manifold lol.
Zipties were on for a please-don't-hit-the-block-test I did initially in lieu of studs. So much easier to go to a spec miata builders shop than to drop my headers for a simple check. Though they could easily contain ALLOFIT, they are from Harbor Freight after all.
Zipties were on for a please-don't-hit-the-block-test I did initially in lieu of studs. So much easier to go to a spec miata builders shop than to drop my headers for a simple check. Though they could easily contain ALLOFIT, they are from Harbor Freight after all.
#23
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So, my ignorance (laziness?) got the best of me. I found the schematic for the tyco connector online, soldered it up, and never gave it a second thought or compared it to the ecu wiring diagram. Not my brightest hour. When I attempted to connect the MS, I noticed that it wasn't getting power, but everything seemed correct. So I looked at what wire was going to pin28 on the DB37, and it was NOT the 12V power wire...
When I found the schematic, i simply soldered it to the tyco as I read it. When in fact, everything needed to be flipped 180 degrees. If a pin was at the bottom right, it needed to be at the top left, and so on. The diagram below showing exactly what I mean. So, looks like I get to resolder my Db37->Tyco harness.
On a lighter note, firmware is loaded onto my MS, and it seems to react fine to the stim. Only thing that seemed odd while bench testing was that the barometric pressure was down around 96Kpa, when it should be closer to 99-100.
Anywho, I have a pretty hectic remainder of the week, so round 2 probably won't be until sometime next week. I hope to return with better news next time.
When I found the schematic, i simply soldered it to the tyco as I read it. When in fact, everything needed to be flipped 180 degrees. If a pin was at the bottom right, it needed to be at the top left, and so on. The diagram below showing exactly what I mean. So, looks like I get to resolder my Db37->Tyco harness.
On a lighter note, firmware is loaded onto my MS, and it seems to react fine to the stim. Only thing that seemed odd while bench testing was that the barometric pressure was down around 96Kpa, when it should be closer to 99-100.
Anywho, I have a pretty hectic remainder of the week, so round 2 probably won't be until sometime next week. I hope to return with better news next time.
#26
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Just a quicky update so no one thinks I've abandoned ship.
I've been spending a fair bit of time trying to iron out the base tune I'll attempt my first start with on MS, mainly running into issues trying to adopt pre-existing tunes to the newest firmware with alternator support. TunerStudio seems to set the value of any new fields it doesn't know a value for to -214748364.8, so I've been having to go through and try to find all of them.
I am going to start remaking my adapter tomorrow, and will hopefully get it done by the end of Wednesday night, and attempt to start it on Thursday.
I took a few pictures of new things I've gotten since last updating:
More soon
I've been spending a fair bit of time trying to iron out the base tune I'll attempt my first start with on MS, mainly running into issues trying to adopt pre-existing tunes to the newest firmware with alternator support. TunerStudio seems to set the value of any new fields it doesn't know a value for to -214748364.8, so I've been having to go through and try to find all of them.
I am going to start remaking my adapter tomorrow, and will hopefully get it done by the end of Wednesday night, and attempt to start it on Thursday.
I took a few pictures of new things I've gotten since last updating:
- CX Racing intercooler with 2.5" piping and reinforced couplers (will probably tig some of this once everything is permanently aligned).
- 545cc rx7 injectors. Haven't yet decided whether I'm going to send them off or not. My gut tells me I probably should...
- Braided SS oil lines
- T25 0.80 A/R (I was told it smokes and needs a rebuild, so planning on doing that soon)
- Kia part for coolant reroute from a junk yard (Polished it just because)
- Oil pressure and coolant temperature gauges to do the linear modifications to (also from the junkyard)
More soon
Last edited by Schuyler; 06-17-2014 at 11:09 AM. Reason: Fixed list
#27
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When you swap out the gauges, I'm interested in your old ones, as I'd like to do the same thing. The H2O I understand (change resistors), but on the oil, you must be planning to add a real sending unit as well?
#28
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The oil pressure gauge modifications will require a new sender, so I'll probably be putting that mod off a little bit and do the clutch/coolant reroute/change the sender/tap the oil pan all at once.
#29
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As I said above, I will be resoldering my db37 to tyco adapter in the next day or two. To avoid any connector confusion, I have made myself an idiot proof layout, so I can make sure that things are done properly this time, and now have the added benefit of making the diagram myself so I understand how it was designed and can read it properly. The ECU is done as the tyco connector itself, not the individual plugs, and is show EXACTLY as it will be layed out on the connector.
#30
You probably don't want to hear it, but going from those injectors to RX-8 injectors was night and day for me as far as ease of tuning, economy and idle quality.
I'm running ID injectors now and I can't tell the difference in idle over the RX-8 ones (I guess that's fairly amazing in itself since they are twice the size).
Maybe consider getting some RX-8 injectors (they are cheap) instead of paying money to clean those?
Cheers
I'm running ID injectors now and I can't tell the difference in idle over the RX-8 ones (I guess that's fairly amazing in itself since they are twice the size).
Maybe consider getting some RX-8 injectors (they are cheap) instead of paying money to clean those?
Cheers
#31
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Finally figured out why that mani seems so familiar.
Not the same one, but dem welds.
Lots to keep coming!
This is where I am at with the 1.6 Bottom mount pictured above.
HellaFabrication Miata 1.6 bottom mount turbo manifold by HellaFab, on Flickr
This is where I am at with the 1.6 Bottom mount pictured above.
HellaFabrication Miata 1.6 bottom mount turbo manifold by HellaFab, on Flickr
#32
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You probably don't want to hear it, but going from those injectors to RX-8 injectors was night and day for me as far as ease of tuning, economy and idle quality.
I'm running ID injectors now and I can't tell the difference in idle over the RX-8 ones (I guess that's fairly amazing in itself since they are twice the size).
Maybe consider getting some RX-8 injectors (they are cheap) instead of paying money to clean those?
Cheers
I'm running ID injectors now and I can't tell the difference in idle over the RX-8 ones (I guess that's fairly amazing in itself since they are twice the size).
Maybe consider getting some RX-8 injectors (they are cheap) instead of paying money to clean those?
Cheers
So, car started on first turn of the key. Idle needs a little tuning, but wasn't bad. Could blip the throttle and it went right back in to place. However, I have to be at 100% duty cycle for the idle to be at 890rpm. Still trying to look in to why this is, any help would be greatly appreciated.
Bigger problem that put a hault to my tuning attempts for the evening: alternator control. I am using the newest firmware with the added support, and must just be wiring things improperly. Here's a screenshot of the settings just incase their incorrect. I've wired and configured it as shown below.
#39
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i see my wiring offer is too late :(
lookin good otherwise
i got my rx8 injector from "TLF performance", cleaned and flowed for like $100 on ebay
http://www.tlfperformanceparts.com/c...4-08_RX-8.html