ITT we discuss why not to turbo your daily bent rod
#101
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I did a pull in fourth, but I guess it didn't save. Here is the pull in third. AFRs are far from stable, but should be safe. When lean, they are no more than 0.3 from target. Still in the very early stages of tuning. Tune Attached, as well as the log.
#104
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Newest Virtual Dynos, 4th gear, up and down the same road.
Once this is dialed in, I'll add a boost controller. Judging by what I think I've deterined to be safe, I have about 27ft-lb left to go (225ft-lb safe zone). Probably going to dial up boost more after it drops off there though to try and keep the torque curve flatter. Thoughts/Suggestions/Opinions? I know the AFRs still need work. Partially did the pulls to have something to tune off of.
Once this is dialed in, I'll add a boost controller. Judging by what I think I've deterined to be safe, I have about 27ft-lb left to go (225ft-lb safe zone). Probably going to dial up boost more after it drops off there though to try and keep the torque curve flatter. Thoughts/Suggestions/Opinions? I know the AFRs still need work. Partially did the pulls to have something to tune off of.
#106
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(Oh, and I'm running 0.060" now. lol.)
#110
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I will say this. I took the hose, attached to the pcv, off the car and filled it with water. I can blow towards where the valve cover would be, and can empty the water I'd put in the hose. I could see it very easily causing the crank case pressurization.
Question #2: can crank case pressure cause oil to be forced around the rear main seal? The idea had crossed my mind, and two others have since brought it up, so I thought it's worth mentioning. It's not a TON of oil, but it's certainly some. Drops ~half the dipstick "safe" area every 2-300mi.
#111
A pcv valve is cheap so just change it and see if things get better, i find it difficult to belive that a leaking pcv valve would let that much air trough but i could be wrong on this.
Crancase pressure will blow out oil seals, i would buy a cheap 0-5 psi gauge (McMaster carr has them) and connect it with a hose to the dip stick tube, tape the gauge in the dash somewere to see crankcase pressure as you drive, if it spikes under boost you can pinch the pcv hose with some vicegrip pliers and see if it changes, then you will know where the presure is coming from.
Crancase pressure will blow out oil seals, i would buy a cheap 0-5 psi gauge (McMaster carr has them) and connect it with a hose to the dip stick tube, tape the gauge in the dash somewere to see crankcase pressure as you drive, if it spikes under boost you can pinch the pcv hose with some vicegrip pliers and see if it changes, then you will know where the presure is coming from.
#112
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I took 3 more of these and went significantly faster and started in first, but the gopro apparently was in picture mode. So, I have pictures of me idling.
But, here is the one video I did get. This is with the 7psi wastegate holding things around 9-10psi.
But, here is the one video I did get. This is with the 7psi wastegate holding things around 9-10psi.
#119
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No yeah I have a ton of compressor surge as the result of my BOV spring being too tight. I haven't worried a ton about it because, as far as I'm aware, it's not the type of compressor surge that really leads to damage (i.e. at WOT). I'm sure it is still bad for the bearings though. I added 3 washers (maximum you can add before there is no longer a lip for them and the spring to rest in) to the lighter spring I have, and it refuses to close at idle. The spring in there now is obviously too tight. These chinese springs are color coded, so I want to calculate what they are so I can figure out what to order. Just need to find something heavy enough to compress the spring a decent amount. And a scale to measure it with.
#120
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