hustler

iTrader: (6)

Thanks. I still need to learn to read a wire diagram.

hustler

iTrader: (6)

The car decided to idle at 3000rpm today when warm. I power-cycled and then it wants to idle at 500rpm. After driving to work, it idles fine.

WTF?

Reverant

iTrader: (10)

Make sure none of your clutch/neutral switches don't stick. There is a an indicator available in TunerStudio, under "Predefined indicators 2", called "Trans Eng".

This should be green whenever your transmission is disenaged, ie either the clutch is depressed or the tranny is in neutral. It should be white when driving.

If you don't have the green "trans eng" indicator on, the ECU won't enter closed loop idle.

hustler

iTrader: (6)

It always says "trans eng" not matter what gear or clutch sittuation. Cruise control works normally btw.

hustler

iTrader: (6)

I worked on this ---- for hours and no matter what I change it still does this:

shuiend

iTrader: (24)

That thing idles way better then my bone stock 92. Quit your bitching.

hustler

iTrader: (6)

Maybe this engine is just hurt and needs to be swapped.

Reverant

iTrader: (10)

Do you have a digital multimeter so we can try a few things?

shuiend

iTrader: (24)

I mean that is probably true. Honestly I know you can make your idle better then it is, I just do not know how. My 92 has a shitty idle and I attribute that to it being an old rusting POS, but I am still young and just do not care.

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

it almost seems like the idle speed isnt bumping up before the compressor kicks on

Reverant

iTrader: (10)

I was thinking the exact same thing. I know I've designed the whole system around my car, maybe the A/C clutch on my car engages slower than on Hustlers? I need to make the system adjustable.

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

before i started using timing correction at idle, ive been using 450ms delay with 11.5% duty increase.

now im only adding like 7% with a 275ms delay -- because my timing increases along with the duty adder to kick me back up to target.




should be able to easily see if the duty cycle jumps up by X (whatever you have programmed) as soon as you hit the switch to make sure the function is even working.

curly

iTrader: (25)

Only on mt.net can you have this many pages of a "build" thread, dedicated A/C idle up. Please give me some interesting pictures of the car. I offer nudes as a reward.

hustler

iTrader: (6)

It started doing this when I upped the AC duty to 60%, now the car doesn't die and only drops to 600rpm when the AC kicks on. I've also tried a target AFR of 12.8 and increasing spark to get more power from those cells when it kicks on, and it get's better, but the tables look a little ridiculous.

I'm pretty much ready to "deal with it" by jacking the idle screw to 1100rpm so I can drive this thing in comfort all summer. I'm tired of nursing the car when accelerating from a stop and constantly roll-starting off the clutch in traffic.

hustler

iTrader: (6)

motion to make " " : oregon :.

vehicular

iTrader: (3)

Maybe I'm a lazy ***, but this was my solution about 45 minutes into screwing with it. The high idle doesn't bother me, and it never dies in traffic.

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

hey bro




is this mean?

richyvrlimited

iTrader: (1)

Very mean Brain, but it's also superb!

hustler

iTrader: (6)

I changed nothing and today it's died 4 times in traffic and trying to idle at 3000rpm.

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

log that ---- bro. that's the best way we can see whats happening and try to solvez.