3rdCarMX5

iTrader: (1)

I am enjoying following along, so happy you didn't put it in the wall.

miata2fast

iTrader: (2)

Wow. That is hauling ***. You are in the 10's with that mph. You get the car to hook and your 1/8th will be easy 6.80s.

oreo

Man, that is quick!

Pat - what do you estimate your Torque/HP numbers are, at 31psi?

sixshooter

iTrader: (12)

V8R tubular rear arms and something harder for bushings or bearings.

sonofthehill

iTrader: (1)

Congrats!
Can't wait to see the 1/4 mile results.
Good save on whatever broke.

I like how your shabby 60' times are my good ones I know, I know, tires.

patsmx5

iTrader: (16)

Probably a solid 400whp/330 torque. I ran a 500whp Bmw 3 series N54 and beat it by over 1/2 a second and 4mph. I've run the car with more power than this before on the street, but not at the track. It honestly scared the crap out of me when I hit 2nd, after that I parked and didn't run the car again. Hopefully will look at it tonight and see if I can find anything obviously broken or damaged.

Leafy

iTrader: (1)

WTF. I'm waiting to hear the hate on you in this thread, but your mph in the 1/8th is faster than a lot of miatas do in the 1/4.

patsmx5

iTrader: (16)

I just inspected the underside of the car. Cracked bushings on passenger side wheel are visible. Didn't see any cracks in the subframe though, and I looked it over pretty well. I think I'm going to do poly bushings and beef up these control arms for now. The V8R control arms looks nice, but sweet jesus they are pricey! I'm not sure of the condition of wheel bearings or ball joints. If those are cheap I will replace those as well, or if they are damaged. Not sure those can be inspected without disassembly though. If cheap I'll just buy them and change while it's all apart. I have read all kinds of post about every hub/bearings sucking, so no idea what to buy in that regard. Mine are stock mazda parts right now.

Leafy

iTrader: (1)

Dude, just buy the V8R arms with sphericals. You're a drag racer, you know how way ******* better stick axle cars hook up with spherical links, same'll go for double a arm.

18psi

iTrader: (76)

dude that thing is hauling. thats low 11's at high 120's per the calculators. congrats!!

definitely a 10 second car once dialed in and fixed

curly

iTrader: (25)

Wheel bearings and ball joints are easily inspected as part of a basic inspection. Grab the wheel top/bottom then side/side and rock it. Any play is either bushing (unlikely on miatas) or ball joints. If it's both, you either have multiple issues or it's wheel bearings.

patsmx5

iTrader: (16)

Thanks! Yeah it was pulling hard once the turbos were hitting full boost. I think I can get it well into the 10's with this turbo setup when it's turned up all the way, I got at least another 130-150whp worth of fuel system left before I'm out of fuel again.


I will do that and see what I find, thanks for the tip!

patsmx5

iTrader: (16)

I did this test on the rear wheels. Drivers side is loose, obviously has a bad wheel bearing as it makes a metallic clunking sound shaking it left/right or up/down with minimal force. Passengers side seems ok shaking it with light force, but it might have a touch of play in the wheel bearing.

But if I actually pull/push hard on each wheel left/right, I can move them a total range of 2-3 degrees with my hands. With my knees, I can bend the wheels back and forth a total range of probably 5 degrees if not more. Scary they move that much with just me pushing on them. It's obvious that the bushings flex a bunch on both sides, and the wheel bearing on drivers side is very worn.

I spent a few hours reading all about bushings. It seems Sean has a good setup, but doesn't have a source for his bronze bearing/bushings at the moment and no ETA on when that will happen. And poly bushings will be stiff, but stick bad because poly on steel is not a good bearing.

What should I do? Run poly bushing and buy the bronze bearings once available? Also, what wheel bearings should I buy? I just daily drive it and drag race, I don't do 30 minute laps.

Monk

iTrader: (3)

I'm pretty sure the tapered roller bearings are available now.
There isn't a lot of feedback about them yet, but theoretically, they should be very stout.
I know how much you like theoreticals.

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

What you should replace your bushings with

patsmx5

iTrader: (16)

I'm going to keep telling you that I'm never doing that. But I will let you know when I decide to swap a Ford 9" rear end into the car.

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

I'll keep that post around for the I told you so quote.

afm

iTrader: (3)

McMaster sells SAE 863 sleeve bearings in loooots of sizes.

patsmx5

iTrader: (16)

afm, I will look into that. I'm guessing that would take a while at best to spec every bearing for the bushings.

What are everyone's thoughts on the IL motorsports, 40% stiffer-than-stock rubber bushings? Or the mazda motorsports 40% stiffer bushings? These vs poly, would poly or delrin be noticeably stiffer? It seems these options don't bind, and don't squeak, and I can just buy and install.

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

Fwiw we will sell poly bronze setups still. Just not at the same price.

I think delrin might be the way to go for you. It's stiffer than poly, won't squeek or anything.