18psi

iTrader: (76)

patsmx5

iTrader: (16)

I sent an email in to Sadfab, going to see what a good setup will cost.

Also priced out the Energy Suspension poly bushings, and the wheel bearings/hubs/seals/clips recommenced in the wheel bearing/hub thread, and have a Rockauto order I will place tomorrow to buy all of that stuff. If I can swing the fancy bushings I will once I get a recommendation and price on that, otherwise probably just do cheap poly bushings for now. If that's what happens, I'll probably still buy the better ones down the road when I have the funds to do the suspension the right way. For now I really just want to fix what's broke so I can drive the car and go race. I'm sure a stock refresh with poly bushings will be much better than my tired crap suspension I have now. Gotta search what wheel bearing grease you guys all run, I know it's here somewhere.

sixshooter

iTrader: (12)

https://v8roadsters.com/shop/suspens...ar-lower-arms/

Bearings specifically for reducing deflection on higher horsepower cars. Not sure if yours qualifies as a higher horsepower car. What do you think?

bonez8

I'm running dirlen upper bushings and poly lowers with bronze bearings. I was worried about the ride and so far it isn't bad. I've only put about 50 miles on the setup so far. Cannot viva any back to back comparisons because everything got done at once.
you could always get deep in in the important spots that take all the pressie and put poly in the rest.

viperormiata

iTrader: (24)

Someone call Hyper and tell him to straight axle Pat's car.

shuiend

iTrader: (24)

I am going to try to find Hyper at MiataPalooza in a few weeks to toy with him.

TurboTim

iTrader: (9)

I know a company that makes bronze bushings.

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

Interested.

The bronze bushings aren't hard to come by. It's the sleeves that go inside the bushing.

TurboTim

iTrader: (9)

I'm not familiar with the assembly.

Lathe doesn't care what the material is.

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

Stock poly bushing. Bronze bushing inside the poly, with a custom sleeve to fit inside the bronze bushings.

TurboTim

iTrader: (9)

Ah ha. Seems simple.

patsmx5

iTrader: (16)

Over 1,000 for those, and from what I understand you're not supposed to daily drive with spherical bearings unless you want to be changing them out all the time. Supposedly lots of miles, rain, dirt, etc wears them out on the street. I can't afford them right now, but it does sound like the perfect option for best traction, least deflection.

I bought ES Poly bushings in a rush, but am still considering going to delrin or bronze bushings to make them better. Getting info and pricing on that, will know more soon.

I went ahead and pulled all the suspension/uprights in the rear. The bushings were damaged, the uprights and control arms were shoved forward, slipping in the bushing, and had metal on metal contact where the upright touched the control arms, as well as the control arms rubbing the subframe from the control arms shoving through the bushings. LOL. Pulled the hubs out of the wheel bearings, but couldn't knock the bearings out of the uprights after removing the C-clips. Will try again tomorrow but looks like I need a press to get them out. Hubs look fine but I'm replacing them with new parts.

miata2fast

iTrader: (2)

Are you still using the rear anti roll bar? If you're not, put it back in.

m2cupcar

iTrader: (5)

The purpose? Reduce/control independent (negative) actions like wheel hop? Would a larger bar be better?

miata2fast

iTrader: (2)

I am not sure if bigger is better, but the trend in drag racing is anti roll front and rear. Particularly with independent rear suspension.

There has been a lot of innovation in irs equipped drag cars. It's been awhile since I did some reading, but there is some good info out there.

The best set ups use spherical ends on all suspension points in the rear. Not saying you have to have it, but irs cars need to reduce suspension travel and deflection as much as possible during launches.

patsmx5

iTrader: (16)

I still have both factory anti roll bars. I read on the internet that drag racing + IRS rear suspension, stiff rear bar, and no front bar is the best way to make it hook. But there's not a ton of fast people with IRS talking about exactly what they did and what worked and what didn't.

18psi

iTrader: (76)

I also heard that no front sway is the way when it comes to drag .
In fact, many of my buddies swear by it.

sonofthehill

iTrader: (1)

Huh? Maybe I should put my rear bar back, I don't like the idea of driving my car without a front bar though.

miata2fast

iTrader: (2)

I tried it in my car, and I learned it's a great way to end up wadded up in the wall. I am never making another pass in a Miata without the front sway. Other cars I have driven that are straight axle are perfectly safe without a front sway.

It maybe another matter if you had much stiffer suspension in all four corners.

18psi

iTrader: (76)

I was talking about corvette's and mustangs. And it works very well on those.
Haven't tried in a Miata.
But Pat is all about testing so I'm sure he can try all configurations