turbofan

iTrader: (1)

For any who are curious, here's a link to a video where I outline my frustration with the Sparco product.

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

Cut, reweld handle.
<br />
<br />I might even have enough extra rebar if you wanna rock the ghettones of aidanfab.

turbofan

iTrader: (1)

The more significant part of the problem is the holes not lining up. The adjustment bar is thin gauge steel tubing, I will simply put it in the vice and bend it.

The holes not lining up on anything is what super pisses me off.

turbofan

iTrader: (1)

Alright, got the seat mounts sorted. Had to take it off, open up the hole a bit, put it back on, rinse, repeat, til it all bolted together. Now I just need the car so I can see how it fits on the floor and bend the adjuster arm to fit.

As for the lovely brakes....

rleete mentioned something about rebuilding the master, something about the rear seal... I've searched a bit for rebuild kits, and I'm not finding any.

I'm at the point of ordering a reman master from RockAuto. Best price I've found so far (about $80 shipped including core charge). I don't really feel like I need the wilwood kit, and I'd really rather not spend another $230 and add more complication.

Hoping to pick up the car from paint next Monday.

turbofan

iTrader: (1)

Ended up ordering a new Centric one from rockauto. $82 shipped with new reservoir.

Now to research safety wiring and how it relates to my BBK since I didn't order it from TSE.

hornetball

iTrader: (4)

Here you go!

https://www.miataturbo.net/suspensio...-rotors-77754/

turbofan

iTrader: (1)

A future prop for you, sir.

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

Buy or borrow some good safety wire pliers. Makes life 10 times easier.

rleete

iTrader: (21)

Thought you were crazy, went looking myself. Holy crap, no kits, just rebuilds for silly prices. Doesn't anybody do anything themselves anymore?

turbofan

iTrader: (1)

<p>Alright gentlemen, I needs input.</p><p>I have read many threads on here about frame rails. Mine on the 10AE are in decent shape, a few dings. I want to protect them.</p><p>Also, my OEM Sport/MSM bracing is pretty beat up (and frankly was pretty wet-noodly to begin with) so I don't plan to reinstall it.</p><p>I'm seriously considering FM's frame rails and butterfly brace all together, one shot. I've thought about doing the OBX ones for over $100 less, but I want to support our vendors and the huge contributions they've made. Buying from them is the right thing to do, if I'm going to buy at all. $400 plus whatever shipping is, probably like $50.</p><p>I'm also, of course, considering the V8R frame rails, no butterfly brace.</p><p>What would you do, or would you scrap the whole idea entirely and run the underside naked? </p><p>Please tells me what you'd do.</p><p><span>@EO2K you have the rails, do you have the butterfly brace too? GRM gave the whole setup a very positive review. I know it's expensive, but it's purdy, and stainless.</span></p><p>Don't tell me to do door bars instead. I don't believe door bars will fit with my seats. If door bars DO fit with my seats, I will likely install them at some point anyway, so it's moot.</p>

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

<p>I vote v8r.</p><p>save the extra money and leave work early a day or two and get this bitch rollin.</p>

18psi

iTrader: (76)

I've no idea about track, but on the street it absolutely makes a difference, so I wouldn't run the car nekkid.

Between the rails and brace, IMO the rails make 80% of the difference, and the rest is the butterfly. Likely wouldn't even feel the butterfly

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

<p>If you pick V8R we should order 2 sets and try and get them to split shipping costs too.</p>

codrus

I have FM frame rails and butterfly, although the actual butterfly portion spends most of its time sitting on the workbench, rather than actually bolted to the car. Why? Well, the center section is a serious PITA to get on/off, and it needs to come off to do pretty much anything with the exhaust. So I take it off and I don't put it back on after finishing because I want to test it first. Then the difference it makes in actual around-town driving in my NB is fairly minor, so I never get around to reinstalling it.

The frame rails, OTOH, never have to come off again.

I hate door bars. Major downgrade in interior comfort and usability, IMHO.

--Ian

hornetball

iTrader: (4)

I wouldn't go on track without frame rails -- even on a caged car. Why? Protection, plain and simple. Not legal for SM though.

BF brace is a serious maintenance headache. Inherited one and was happy to sell it.

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

<p>Combining shipping saves 9 dollars...</p>

curly

iTrader: (25)

Just do rails, and install what NB bracing you can. It's not a wet noodle, your suspension was.

turbofan

iTrader: (1)

<p>OK so it sounds like frame rails are a no-brainer. I'm inclined to go with Flyin' Miata's anyway, being only $30 more than V8R's rails (though a full $49 more than Boss Frog's rails from Fab9). Even so, stainless is purdy, and should hold up better over the years to minor scrapes and scuffs. Never have to worry about rust, and I can always add the rest of the butterfly brace later on.</p><p>&nbsp;</p><p>Will place the order tonight. </p>

EO2K

iTrader: (37)

I do have just the rails so I cannot comment on the addition of the butterfly, but I can tell you FM rails alone made a noticeable difference. More than frogarms, more than rollbar.

Though we have not driven it yet, we installed the V8R ones on Gesso's NB. Those things are SERIOUS BEEF. They weight about eleventyhundred pounds and the bolt shanks are probably 1/2" diameter. Gesso will be making ALLTHETORQUES so his braces will be doing double duty as trans mount points, but the V8Rs are bestial compared to the FMs. That's not to say the FMs are cheese, but remember why V8R made them that size to begin with and you start to understand.

If I were starting again with another car, I'd seam weld, FM rails, Frog Arms in that order. I got to drive Gesso's car with about 1/4 of the seam welding done and it was dramatic. If you can swing it, and if you have access to a TIG and someone who knows how to weld, plus the time and the patience, seam welding is the bees knees.

turbofan

iTrader: (1)

Well that certainly would have been much better to do before paint, but I'll look into what needs to be done for seam welding.
<br />
<br />Also, I've delayed the purchase of the rails a bit to wait for Aidan, prob will order next week.
<br />
<br />Car is supposed to be done with paint by Tuesday.
<br />
<br />Feeling very anxious. Hope it's fantastic.