Shuiend tries built motor #4, lets see how I break this one - Page 2 - Miata Turbo Forum -Boost cars, acquire cats.

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Old 07-20-2010, 11:51 AM   #21
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Old 07-20-2010, 02:38 PM   #22
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lars, why haven't you asked the masses to post a picture of how the NB crank sensor mounts?
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Old 07-20-2010, 02:51 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by y8s View Post
lars, why haven't you asked the masses to post a picture of how the NB crank sensor mounts?
I am stupid and never thought of it.

So does anyone have an NB with how the stock crank sensor mounts?
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Old 07-20-2010, 11:22 PM   #24
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So I finally got my coolant leak fixed after ******* with it for several hours. I will go more into that tomorrow.

Went to finally start the car and battery was dead. So I grab the battery from my other Miata. Go to crank and my laptop BSOD's on me. Apprently the shitty *** laptop I have from work likes to do that when ever I am cranking. So I try anyways to start the car it seems to crank but never catches, the brief log I took only showed me getting to 175rpms which leads me to believe I might not be firing on 2 cylinders for some reason. so I need to figure that out.

I will **** with the car more tomorrow.
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Old 07-21-2010, 03:32 AM   #25
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Lars, did you assemble the bottom end your self?
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Old 07-21-2010, 02:34 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by railz View Post
Lars, did you assemble the bottom end your self?
Neogenesis2004 and I assembled the bottom end in my garage. I simply had the machine shop overbore and hone the block and assemble the pistons onto the rods.
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Old 07-21-2010, 10:15 PM   #27
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My Life is full of FAIL. Brain and I spent over an hour ******* with my car and it still does not start. First person with 5k in cash to me gets the POS.

I will post logs and more details in the morning.
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Old 07-21-2010, 10:33 PM   #28
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Crank sensor plate on right?
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Old 07-21-2010, 10:42 PM   #29
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Originally Posted by levnubhin View Post
Crank sensor plate on right?
I am using my stock 94 cas from my old motor to get the car running. I was planning on switching to CAM and Crank sensors when I get the VVT controller from DIY installed.

When I am not in a foul mood in the morning Brain and I will have more details. I got lots of different logs and ****.
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Old 07-28-2010, 09:44 AM   #30
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I have been following this Lars, and insist on an update immediately.

Quote:
Originally Posted by shuiend View Post
My Life is full of FAIL. Brain and I spent over an hour ******* with my car and it still does not start.
Dood, "over an hour" messing with a car is not *******, it is merely foreplay.

Keep us posted.
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Old 07-28-2010, 09:57 AM   #31
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I have been following this Lars, and insist on an update immediately.



Dood, "over an hour" messing with a car is not *******, it is merely foreplay.

Keep us posted.
I have been at the beach in Charleston SC since Saturday so the only update I have right now is that I am red as a lobster.

I will hopefully have people over Sunday to help me figure it out.

Next on the to do list is a compression test, switch out my starter, and then check out my cas and redo timing.
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Old 07-28-2010, 09:58 AM   #32
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I'd be glad to help in any way. You're much better at this **** but I -do- know how to use a sawzall.
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Old 07-28-2010, 10:00 AM   #33
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It seriously sounds and turns like something is causing the motor to spin slow...

instead of typical: "VVVV, VVVV, VVVV, VVVV, VVVV, catch"

it's more like: "chug........chug.......chug........chug........fa rt."

First thing I thought was battery, but it had no effect, and we left the charger on it the rest of the evening. The motor just wont spin fast enough, 170rpm max, but I don't see how the starter would suddenly be bad. So either the cam timing is still off so the odd opening/closing times are causing resistance or there's some major friction that's fighting the starter.

we spent a good two hours just 'foreplaying' around. He gets spark and fuel, but it just cranks really slow...really low pitched chugging, unlike a typical fast high pitched crank.

I had to redo his timing belt; both his intake and exhaust cam were off a tooth. I noticed that when we were cranking puffs of air were coming out his throttle.

After we did that and tried cranking again we got one combustion burst, only once and it was just burning off all the fuel that was pooling up. It still cranked slow, but around 200rpm now.

We then determined that his intake cam had to be off, and "lol"-and-behold he put his cam gear on incorrectly. So after crying on the phone about how hard it is for him to properly do his timing belt all by himself, he finally got it and tried it again....same thing, really slow cranking speed...too slow to do anything cool, like fire and run.



We had removed a bracket on his starter because we couldn't fit it with his true oil pressure sender in the way, but we are beginning to think that maybe provided a good ground to the starter and the starter is to blame. when Lars gets back from SC I think he'll try adding a grounding strap to it first to see if that has an effect...otherwise I dunno what would cause such slow cranking speeds other than bad cam/valve timing or a bad starter.
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Old 07-28-2010, 11:21 AM   #34
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I do have a spare starter. It's beat to ******* hell but it should work.
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Old 07-28-2010, 11:38 AM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by faeflora View Post
I do have a spare starter. It's beat to ******* hell but it should work.
One of my coworkers has one. It will be sitting in my garage when I get home on Saturday. Thanks for the offer though.
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Old 07-29-2010, 12:07 PM   #36
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Engine assembled correctly, in terms of clearances and whatnot? Does it crank over normal speed when you take out the spark plugs (when trying to build oil pressure before you actually go to start the new block it for real)? Was it tight as hell turning it over by hand when you were assembling the longblock? Never having built an engine before I have no idea what I'm talking about.
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Old 07-29-2010, 12:14 PM   #37
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turning the crank pulley by hand with timing belt installed isnt harder than normal. turning the exhaust cam without belt was...
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Old 07-29-2010, 01:11 PM   #38
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I was about to mention the bearings. I accidentally put one of my old main bearings when I was replacing them and just the combination of one half of an old bearing cause the crank to be nearly impossible to turn.

If the exhaust cam is hard to turn, I'd double check the caps are facing the correct direction and in the correct order, and retorque them.
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Old 07-29-2010, 01:41 PM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by curly View Post
If the exhaust cam is hard to turn, I'd double check the caps are facing the correct direction and in the correct order, and retorque them.
They've been told to do this, from several sources.

The lack of real diagnostic work in this build is killing me.
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Old 07-29-2010, 01:42 PM   #40
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blame mr. I'm going to the beach... I didnt build it, i just came over to try to help.
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