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Old 01-12-2012, 10:40 AM   #41
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Jump it - you're wasting time

so if you crash and your RPMs drop to zero, your pump will stay on?
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Old 01-12-2012, 10:43 AM   #42
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so if you crash and your RPMs drop to zero, your pump will stay on?
he runs a switch. During crash events...well he has been trained to :turn off ignition, flip fuel pump switch, and call for the ambalamps.

What now OnStar? which btw raises an interesting question, if you wreck a new chevy on track would OnStar contact the police/ambulance and send them to the race track?
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Old 01-12-2012, 10:56 AM   #43
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Fuel pump should still turn off automatically...
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Old 01-12-2012, 01:11 PM   #44
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So what's the word Steve? Figure it out yet?
Haven't messed with it during the week yet. This weekend I'll get at it. I've had activities and such in the evenings this week. I have a business association meeting tonight, it was my birthday, etc.
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Old 01-12-2012, 01:30 PM
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Old 01-12-2012, 09:04 PM   #45
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so if you crash and your RPMs drop to zero, your pump will stay on?
good point - in for thermistor deployed fire extinguishing system.

Just didn't understand why a MSPnP kept the pump from coming on. Not very PnP if you ask me then - I had to get it moved out of the guys shop so I bypassed with a switch and guess never looked back.

Joe - the only reason you picked up 2 sec is b/c your in the middle of puberty and your ***** grew slightly to push it into the corners faster but good for you that you picked up 2 secs - have you put your car on a rack to check that alignment since then?

Happy Birthday old fart!

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Old 01-13-2012, 10:44 AM   #46
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Just didn't understand why a MSPnP kept the pump from coming on. Not very PnP if you ask me then - I had to get it moved out of the guys shop so I bypassed with a switch and guess never looked back.
??? It doesn't. The MSPNP runs the fuel pump just like the stock ECU. what you probably did was fail to remove the ST_SIGN fuse and blew up the driver that activates the fuel pump relay as per the installation manual.



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Old 01-13-2012, 10:52 AM   #47
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??? It doesn't. The MSPNP runs the fuel pump just like the stock ECU. what you probably did was fail to remove the ST_SIGN fuse and blew up the driver that activates the fuel pump relay as per the installation manual.



Is that something I should have done on mine too, or is that just for the MSPNP?
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Old 01-13-2012, 11:39 AM   #48
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90-93 MSPNP only. (or any other 90-93 MS installs that happened to use the same method to trigger the FPR)
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Old 01-13-2012, 03:15 PM   #49
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90-93 MSPNP only. (or any other 90-93 MS installs that happened to use the same method to trigger the FPR)
Do I need to run easytherm or is the MS setup for the stock CLT sender and the GM IAT?

(didn't come with instructions )
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Old 01-13-2012, 03:21 PM   #50
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i'm 80% sure that's what it's flashed to. You acutally will need three .inc files that you need to add to the CFG folder for your TS project.

http://www.boostedmiata.com/MS/msq/T...6L_standalone/

this makes sure the laptop displays whatever is loaded into the MS.
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Old 01-13-2012, 04:42 PM   #51
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i'm 80% sure that's what it's flashed to. You acutally will need three .inc files that you need to add to the CFG folder for your TS project.

http://www.boostedmiata.com/MS/msq/T...6L_standalone/

this makes sure the laptop displays whatever is loaded into the MS.
Does it matter that the page you linked for me says 1.6l and I have a '96 1.8l?
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Old 01-13-2012, 04:44 PM   #52
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nope.
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Old 01-13-2012, 07:09 PM   #53
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Hmmm... at least I CAN say, is that I didn't install it - I'll have to hit the noob that installed that put the turbo together... he just installed a MS prior to my car, but probably not a PnP and didn't follow da instructions (most assuredly). So If I were to repair it, shall I send it to you? It will eventually make it into my street '93 (this year I hope) and don't want a pretty lighted switch - a nice stereo will suffice.

So did Steve get some b-day loving from the honey?
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Old 01-14-2012, 12:34 PM   #54
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So did Steve get some b-day loving from the honey?


OK, tested the output on the purple fuel pump wire coming out of the MS and it is ~7v positive when engine is running and other end is disconnected from the car harness. So that is +7v output from MS.
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Old 01-19-2012, 10:43 PM
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Old 01-23-2012, 08:40 AM   #55
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This.

Still.

Help?
^Yeah. What he said. Help with the fuel pump question!


On a side note, I'm not a fan of cobbling together intercooler piping from oddball pieces I inherited. I need to quit being so cheap or people will likely start hucking rocks at me.

I really hate the tight distance between the throttle body and the stock fans when using the thick 53mm radiator.

I worked on the dashpot settings to keep the car from shutting off when the A/C is running and you lift off throttle. Lots of info on here and the DIYAutotune and msextra sites.

The MS1 seems to be weird about the closed loop idle recovery for just switching on headlights and A/C but there is also some good info out there for that. I just don't have it quite right yet. Better, but not solved. I will continue to play with it. It needs to recover more rapidly when loads are introduced but not oscillate.
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Old 01-23-2012, 09:53 AM   #56
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and it's on pin 37 on the db37?
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Old 01-23-2012, 03:51 PM   #57
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I'll look at that end of the harness when I get home and post the results.
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Old 02-24-2012, 08:49 AM   #58
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and it's on pin 37 on the db37?
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I'll look at that end of the harness when I get home and post the results.
Yeah, I still haven't gotten around to disassembling the harness end and checking that.

But I did mount my intercooler, buy and test fit all of my piping, elbows and clamps. Some of it came with the parts car and some was purchased. I had to trim the mouth opening plastic to mount the intercooler but tried to leave it intact as much as I could. I'll seal it up well when I'm done.

I have two cast iron turbo manifolds to choose from, an HKS top mount and a FM side mount. And I have a genuine Garrett journal bearing 2860 from a non-automotive application. The Garrett was too large externally to work with either of these manifolds because of the inlet leg on the turbine housing being slightly longer than typical automotive turbine housings. I almost just swapped exhaust housings to lose the extra 3/4 inch but didn't. The compressor housing is slightly larger externally as well. Pic:



This would have worked with a different manifold but I am in a hurry.

So I bought and test fitted a Chinese 2870 that seems to fit well enough with the FM mani. It was a little large for the HKS top mount's hood clearance.

I did bend the frame rail lip down to allow for engine movement.







I didn't like the tight radius that was going to be necessary for the downpipe to make right out of the turbine housing, so I removed the part of the shelf just below the heater core nipples just like the V8 conversion guys do.





What remains is to disassemble everything and reassemble correctly with proper hardware and to reroute lines and wires. Then I need to get everything heat shielded and the downpipe routed and installed.


Edit: Crappy cell phone pic of mock up-

Attached Thumbnails
-p1010326.jpg   -p1010321.jpg   -p1010322.jpg   -p1010324.jpg   -p1010323.jpg  

-p1010325.jpg  

Last edited by sixshooter; 03-11-2012 at 08:00 AM.
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Old 03-11-2012, 07:57 AM   #59
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Well, I picked the car up on Friday afternoon and drove it home with the default MS base tune boost cut still on. It is 3 inch diameter pipe all the way from the turbine to the muffler outlet. It is an HKS HiPower muffler that was on my parts car for those of you keeping score. It has a ridonkulous 5 or 6 inch diameter tip built into it with the HKS logo engraved in it. It sounds deep and full of bass without any raspyness at all. It looks Ricey as fawk which I'm not keen about, but the sound is deep and mellow. The downpipe isn't perfect but it is workable and will do for now.

I worked on covering braking components and heater hoses with shielding to protect them from the heat off the turbine and downpipe. I made some progress but I'm not done. Pics tomorrow if you are good boys and girls.

I adjusted the wastegate arm so that the wastegate was slightly open at rest and set the overboost cut at 160kpa (around 8.5psi). I did this to try to eliminate the chances of overboosting until everything is broken in and tested for leaks and double checked. I did a little driving around. It is a nice thing to feel when the air starts to rush and you feel the welcome surge of extra power. Even with the wastegate propped partially open it feels compelling in that way that only turbos can. I've waited too long for a turbocharged car of my own and am satisfied and content in a special way that I put so much of my own work into it and made it happen from a pile of spare parts, a couple of new parts, and a lot of reckoning and wrenching. I feel satisfaction. And hope.

I have hope that even at the diminutive pressure level that the car achieves at present, it would keep much of the lesser traffic from running away from me on the track straightaways as they had before. I have hope that I will get those point-bys that I have been wrongfully denied in the past. The car is definitely not a fast car, but it's doing a little better and it is a welcome change.

Is there a point where the stock FPR must be upgraded to aftermarket if I am still on the stock fuel pump? I didn't think so unless I upgraded the pump but I thought I had seen it on someone else's build.
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Old 03-11-2012, 05:43 PM   #60
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Well looky there.

I was suprised how well the car ran with the wastegate open. I can't wait to get a ride when it is all buttoned up. Soon?
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