ViperOrMiata builds the Pelican
#22
Elite Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (24)
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Key West
Posts: 6,110
Total Cats: 283
I swapped out my 1.6 diff for a 2001 NB rear end. I was bitching about the one piece axles but in the end I love the clearance I have for my 3". I ended up making my own exhaust hangers and I was able to tuck the piping up a bit closer to the car for that little bit of extra clearance.
Florida roads are notorious, lol. I had a friend in his s13 coupe crush his muffler going over a manhole! Apparently the city decided to dig up parts of the road to recover the tops and leave the manholes the original street height, lol.
#24
Elite Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (24)
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Key West
Posts: 6,110
Total Cats: 283
Bastardized = <3. I dig it. I'll post some pics of the turbo E30's I work on.
Open diff. I will in no way, shape or form pay for a torsen. I will grenade it at the strip or on the street. I'm done using my car as a track rat. I'm rebuilding everything to be a nice street car that will run mid/low 11's. I may go to a autocross every once in a while, but not enough to warrant a torsen. The RX7 clutch diff should be perfect for my needs and will not break the bank.
By mid summer, this car will be at around 350whp (thanks to my secret weapon).
Open diff. I will in no way, shape or form pay for a torsen. I will grenade it at the strip or on the street. I'm done using my car as a track rat. I'm rebuilding everything to be a nice street car that will run mid/low 11's. I may go to a autocross every once in a while, but not enough to warrant a torsen. The RX7 clutch diff should be perfect for my needs and will not break the bank.
By mid summer, this car will be at around 350whp (thanks to my secret weapon).
#25
Elite Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (24)
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Key West
Posts: 6,110
Total Cats: 283
Halp
Okay! Decided to do some small projects today and ended up a **** fest.
Reinstalled bumper core support:
While I was down I decided to cut some old silicone and use them in strategic places to stop the a/c lines from wearing a hole in my silicone cold piping:
That all went smoothly. Then I thought I would bleed my brakes and get rid of the chocolate milk in my reservoir. Starting on the back first, I noticed that my diff mounts looked "off" as in they didn't look right.
I'm still not sure how it slipped by me Using my new found experience in everything differential, I lowered the diff down. Inspected the mounts.etc. It just wasn't sliding up the bolts enough. I was able to get maybe 2-3 threads with the nut and that with the tabs OFF
So I lowered it back down, greased the hell out of it and was only able to get a little more out of it. I looked at pictures on line and it is easy to see the considerable number of threads available on the subframe bolts.
This worried me, so I kept at it. I must have benched that ******* diff 100 times today. I feel like I hit the gym for three hours. After a few hours of just ******* with it I made progress. Pics:
Pictures of the diff mounts on both sides:
This how far I can get it up the bolts:
You can see that is touching the subframe but the problem is that I am getting enough bolt to thread the nut onto.
I can *almost* get the nut on with the tabs now. I am close but no cigar, yet.
If some one wants to chime in and give advice, lol or call me a douche feel free.
Reinstalled bumper core support:
While I was down I decided to cut some old silicone and use them in strategic places to stop the a/c lines from wearing a hole in my silicone cold piping:
That all went smoothly. Then I thought I would bleed my brakes and get rid of the chocolate milk in my reservoir. Starting on the back first, I noticed that my diff mounts looked "off" as in they didn't look right.
I'm still not sure how it slipped by me Using my new found experience in everything differential, I lowered the diff down. Inspected the mounts.etc. It just wasn't sliding up the bolts enough. I was able to get maybe 2-3 threads with the nut and that with the tabs OFF
So I lowered it back down, greased the hell out of it and was only able to get a little more out of it. I looked at pictures on line and it is easy to see the considerable number of threads available on the subframe bolts.
This worried me, so I kept at it. I must have benched that ******* diff 100 times today. I feel like I hit the gym for three hours. After a few hours of just ******* with it I made progress. Pics:
Pictures of the diff mounts on both sides:
This how far I can get it up the bolts:
You can see that is touching the subframe but the problem is that I am getting enough bolt to thread the nut onto.
I can *almost* get the nut on with the tabs now. I am close but no cigar, yet.
If some one wants to chime in and give advice, lol or call me a douche feel free.
Last edited by viperormiata; 01-10-2011 at 12:19 AM.
#26
Elite Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (24)
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Key West
Posts: 6,110
Total Cats: 283
Problem Found
Problem found but not solved. Solved will be tomorrow.
Turns out its the metal piece that extends downward from the diff mount. It's too long and is not letting the teeth on the tab touch it at all.
I am dropping the entire diff tonight and taking to a friends house were he will use a cutting wheel and level the bottom of the mount flat. That should give me plenty of thread to mount everything back up right.
My double jack, diff mount
You can see how far the metal inserts of the mount stick down, they are covering all my thread. Just FYI, the diff IS mounted high enough. You can see from my previous pics, I benched the damn thing and slammed it into the subframe, it can't go any higher.
The metal part sticking down is hitting the middle of the tab and not letting the teeth touch the diff.
I'll update tomorrow on how smoothly the cutting goes or if any one has any other bright ideas PLEASE LET ME KNOW.
Turns out its the metal piece that extends downward from the diff mount. It's too long and is not letting the teeth on the tab touch it at all.
I am dropping the entire diff tonight and taking to a friends house were he will use a cutting wheel and level the bottom of the mount flat. That should give me plenty of thread to mount everything back up right.
My double jack, diff mount
You can see how far the metal inserts of the mount stick down, they are covering all my thread. Just FYI, the diff IS mounted high enough. You can see from my previous pics, I benched the damn thing and slammed it into the subframe, it can't go any higher.
The metal part sticking down is hitting the middle of the tab and not letting the teeth touch the diff.
I'll update tomorrow on how smoothly the cutting goes or if any one has any other bright ideas PLEASE LET ME KNOW.
#28
Elite Member
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Los Angeles, CA
Posts: 8,682
Total Cats: 130
I am glad to have started the trend of "write intro thread after 1000+ posts". The blue miata is very nice.
I'm sorry, I don't have anything valuable to add about your diff issue. I've never done that kind of work before. All I have to say is that if you make it fit, then it fits. Sawzalls are helpful for that kind of work.
I'm sorry, I don't have anything valuable to add about your diff issue. I've never done that kind of work before. All I have to say is that if you make it fit, then it fits. Sawzalls are helpful for that kind of work.
#29
Elite Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (24)
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Key West
Posts: 6,110
Total Cats: 283
I am glad to have started the trend of "write intro thread after 1000+ posts". The blue miata is very nice.
I'm sorry, I don't have anything valuable to add about your diff issue. I've never done that kind of work before. All I have to say is that if you make it fit, then it fits. Sawzalls are helpful for that kind of work.
I'm sorry, I don't have anything valuable to add about your diff issue. I've never done that kind of work before. All I have to say is that if you make it fit, then it fits. Sawzalls are helpful for that kind of work.
It's cool, I don't have any knowledge about this either. I Just hope it works. I did the measurements and it looks like it should come about perfect with the amount of threads exposed on the subframe mount bolts.
#31
Elite Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (24)
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Key West
Posts: 6,110
Total Cats: 283
The differential is sliding up the subframe mounting bolts just fine, it hits the subframe and doesn't leave me enough threads to bolt the mounting tabs on.
That was issue number one, then I realized (as you can see from the above pictures) that the mounting tab teeth are not touching the diff. The mounting tabs are coming in contact with the metal tube that runs through differential mount, the metal tube is too long.
#32
Elite Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (24)
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Key West
Posts: 6,110
Total Cats: 283
Alright, well that didn't go as planned. Spent most of they day trying to get a first start out of my friend's turbo E30 and then when we got back to my place, the cutter was too tall and not powerful enough. We started to run out of light.
I think the best solution is just get some MMR diff mounts. I'll need them anyway, might as well get them now when I have the diff out.
If any one has some sort of clue why I am the only person in history to have this ordeal, please let me know.
I think the best solution is just get some MMR diff mounts. I'll need them anyway, might as well get them now when I have the diff out.
If any one has some sort of clue why I am the only person in history to have this ordeal, please let me know.
#37
Boost Czar
iTrader: (62)
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Chantilly, VA
Posts: 79,508
Total Cats: 4,080
Is that the aluminum carrier off the RX7 Rear? You need miata mounts for it dude. Else the rod sticking out is 1" too long and you can't bolt it up.
I can't tell from the pics, but it appears to be.
EDIT:
okay yeah, that looks like an rx7 carrier.
miata carrier vs. rx7:
and there is no break away notch on the right "wing", correct? I see it on the miata one in your picture.
I can't tell from the pics, but it appears to be.
EDIT:
okay yeah, that looks like an rx7 carrier.
miata carrier vs. rx7:
and there is no break away notch on the right "wing", correct? I see it on the miata one in your picture.
#38
Elite Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (24)
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Key West
Posts: 6,110
Total Cats: 283
I have a set of MMR diff mounts on the way, they should cure this problem for me. If not, what should I do????
#39
Elite Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (24)
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Key West
Posts: 6,110
Total Cats: 283
Fleshlight is not a ***** pump but good try.